Camera PV 2007 » Digital Camera » leaking green fluid
leaking green fluid
Question:
did you try the heater hoses Don Ramanan
Response:
Hi, When I bought my 88 olds ciera it had the same problem. Just replace the heater core. That way, it will get rid of any doubt, since you will have replaced everything under that dash that contains antifreeze, and have tightened the connections. It is a part that is less than twenty dollars, 15 at autozone. It is located just above the "hump" in the floor under the dash. I believe there are 4 screws around the black plastic cover. Take those out. Then, under the hood on the firewall just behind the power steering pump, disconnect the two black water hoses. Then, just unbolt the core and take it out to replace it. It takes less than an hour to do. Make sure you drain the cooling system first. Good Luck Rob – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > hello all, I am wondering if you can help me figure out where this leak > is coming from. > My car, 1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera, 4door sedan, recently start to > leak a greenish > fluid into the passenger compartment just under the dash and it seems to > be coming > out of the heater vent. It appears to be engine coolant fluid, aka > antifreeze. I don’t understand > how it gets there from the radiator. I notice also it only comes out > when I have the radiator > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > last few days, and the leak seems > to stop. > I just don’t understand where the leak could have come from though, I > thought the radiator > heat exhanger only have freon running inside of it. And why does it > seems to be running out > of the under the dash heater vent? It spills into the carpets on both > the driver side and passenger > side, at the place where you put your feet. > Any pointers, opinions etc. are appreciated.
Response:
My Bonnevile dosen’t have a drian hole or hose to let coolant leak outside of the car. My 89 Cavalier Z- 24 did have a drain hose as does the Grand Am. All car should have an exterior drain so you don’t mess up the carpet. Believe me when the heater core leaked in my Z- 24 I knew it, It poured out like a flood when it split open. Lucky it happened in front of my house. h
Response:
Harry, Not to be a wisefanny, but hopefully that’s not coolant (refrigerant) leaking, otherwise you’d be out of a/c in no time. It’s actually the condensation (water) that collects on the evaporator during the cooling process. And yes, far better for it to be drained outside. John Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: http://www.imcool.com/
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My Bonnevile dosen’t have a drian hole or hose to let coolant leak > outside of the car. My 89 Cavalier Z- 24 did have a drain hose as does > the Grand Am. > All car should have an exterior drain so you don’t mess up the carpet. > Believe me when the heater core leaked in my Z- 24 > I knew it, It poured out like a flood when it split open. Lucky it > happened in front of my house. > h
Response:
Thanks for that clarification on both parts, especially on the tank-tube detail. Sorry about the tube confusion, but that’s the "core" manufacturing in me coming out. Chuckle, John Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: http://www.imcool.com/
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> you don’t have to take off anything except the underdash panels to remove > the AC ducts, and the cover over the core (plus a console extension if so > equipped) a 1/4" air ratchet, a 6" extension, and a 7 mm (or 9/32 socket) > on a stick’ deals to help you find the screws > OE cores have plastic tanks with a very short plastic tube, a longer plastic > tube with any offset needed is ’sonically welded’ to the short > tube…….and this junction is where about 90 % of them leak….vibration > and flexing of the hoses breaks the sonic weld
Response:
Don’t forget to replace stiff heater hoses and ck for bad motor mounts.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Thanks for that clarification on both parts, especially on the tank-tube detail. > Sorry about the tube confusion, but that’s the "core" manufacturing in me coming out. > Chuckle, > John > Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: > http://www.imcool.com/ > you don’t have to take off anything except the underdash panels to remove > the AC ducts, and the cover over the core (plus a console extension if so > equipped) a 1/4" air ratchet, a 6" extension, and a 7 mm (or 9/32 socket) ‘mirrors > on a stick’ deals to help you find the screws > OE cores have plastic tanks with a very short plastic tube, a longer plastic > tube with any offset needed is ’sonically welded’ to the short > tube…….and this junction is where about 90 % of them leak….vibration > and flexing of the hoses breaks the sonic weld
Response:
it’s more than likely the heater core..my ex 86 bronco did the same exact thing
Response:
3. Are you sure about the 2-hour job? Not if they have to pull the dash and any a/c components. 4. Not to be a wise ass, but the original heaters are actually made with aluminum cores (and tubes). Only the crimped-on tanks are made of plastic. Aftermarket replacements could be copper fins with brass tubes and soldered-on brass tanks. John (a former employee of a copper-brass radiator/heater manufacturer that got "displaced" by aluminum and plastic) Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: http://www.imcool.com/
… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 3) its a 2-hour job at worst > 4) be sure to use a core with brass tubes instead of those crappy plastic > ones like the factory uses
Response:
you don’t have to take off anything except the underdash panels to remove the AC ducts, and the cover over the core (plus a console extension if so equipped) a 1/4" air ratchet, a 6" extension, and a 7 mm (or 9/32 socket) on a stick’ deals to help you find the screws OE cores have plastic tanks with a very short plastic tube, a longer plastic tube with any offset needed is ’sonically welded’ to the short tube…….and this juction is where about 90 % of them leak….vibration and flexing of the hoses breaks the sonic weld
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 3. Are you sure about the 2-hour job? Not if they have to pull the dash and any a/c > components. > 4. Not to be a wise ass, but the original heaters are actually made with aluminum cores > (and tubes). Only the crimped-on tanks are made of plastic. > Aftermarket replacements could be copper fins with brass tubes and soldered-on brass > tanks. > John > (a former employee of a copper-brass radiator/heater manufacturer that got "displaced" by > aluminum and plastic) > Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: > http://www.imcool.com/ > … > 3) its a 2-hour job at worst > 4) be sure to use a core with brass tubes instead of those crappy plastic > ones like the factory uses
Response:
just replace the damned heater core 1) the heater core and AC condenser share a common drain 2) there is no ’shut-off’ for heater water on this vehicle, it ’shuts off the heat’ by swinging the ‘blend door’ to a position where air does not pass thru the heater core 3) its a 2-hour job at worst 4) be sure to use a core with brass tubes instead of those crappy plastic ones like the factory uses just do it
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Your options are: > 1. as someone has already said, bypass the heater by disconnecting them from the heater > core and using a pipe to re-connect them together. > (No heat in the winter, but also, no heat for the defroster during any summer/fall > rainshowers when windshields fog up.) > 2. have the heater core changed now and forget the problem. > Note: turning the heat lever to full cold will not necessarily shut off all hot water to > the heater core. Often, those valves still leak quite a bit, enough to give you heat into > the cabin when you least want it…on 95F days! Some people do install an aftermarket > heater control valve that allows them to full shut off the flow of hot coolant to the > heater from inside the cabin.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I think I made a typo. I mean I turned off the AC, and I turned off the fan > that blows AC cool air into the inside of the car. There is actually such a slider > switch in > my car, > its like FAN: (low, med, high). My car is 1988.
Response:
do us all a favor…take your car to the dealer..and explain your problem to them…do not attempt to fix this yourself.. I haven’t seen many cars where the AC and heater aren’t on the same slider type switch.. I always knew there was a reason the dealer has a repair shop…
Response:
If the a/c (condensation) drain pan covers the heater core as well, leaking coolant will use the same drain tube. Assuming it’s not plugged, the liquid drains to the ground. Experienced techs (not me) are better able to tell you which vehicles may have such a common drain, and which don’t. But for cars with no a/c, the heater dumps the coolant right on to the cabin floor. John Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: http://www.imcool.com/ – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> hi, > Are not the heater cores designed to drain the leaking fluid to the the > out side on the passenger side at the back of the engine? > thanks.
Response:
Your options are: 1. as someone has already said, bypass the heater by disconnecting them from the heater core and using a pipe to re-connect them together. (No heat in the winter, but also, no heat for the defroster during any summer/fall rainshowers when windshields fog up.) 2. have the heater core changed now and forget the problem. Note: turning the heat lever to full cold will not necessarily shut off all hot water to the heater core. Often, those valves still leak quite a bit, enough to give you heat into the cabin when you least want it…on 95F days! Some people do install an aftermarket heater control valve that allows them to full shut off the flow of hot coolant to the heater from inside the cabin. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I think I made a typo. I mean I turned off the AC, and I turned off the fan > that blows AC cool air into the inside of the car. There is actually such a slider switch in > my car, > its like FAN: (low, med, high). My car is 1988.
Response:
> I’m thinking he meant turning off the *Heater* inside the car.
No I mean I turned off the AC and the fan which blows cool air from the AC unit into the car. No I don’t turn on the heater in the summer. But funny enough, on my car, the switch for turning on the AC and heater is the same one, you just slide it to different location. I wish I have a digital camera, I would take a picture for all to see. AC Max Normal Bi-Level Heater Def ^^^^ This is where the slider switch was placed at Fan Low Med High ^^^^ I had it on high. > And this would make sense, no heater, no leakage.. the vaulve closes and > restricts the water getting to the leak.. > Either : > 1) don’t turn the heater on,
I didn’t, I only turned on the AC. > 2) replace the inside heater core, or > 3) if you wanted to be sneaky – I’ve done this on a couple of my old > beaters is just find where the hoses circulate into the firwall, and put a > splice in between the two ingoing and outgoing hoses so you effectively > bypass the heater core inside the car. This of course will render your > heater useless. It will also stop the leaking. Depending on how old of a > car it is, and what climate you live in, you may not care if the heater
I live in Toronto, Canada. And you don’t want to drive without a heater in late Dec, Jan, Feb, even Mar here. > works or not. I’ve not heard of any negative effects of doing this, > probably better to have the thing disconnected than having that stuff > running into your car – what a terrible smell.
Yeah, it smells like anti-freeze. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> -Brian > As the others have said, your heater core (inside the dash, along side the > a/c evaporator) > has sprung a leak. > Heater cores are no longer practical to repair, just replaced. > It could be expensive because a technician may have to dig deeply into the > dash, even > remove it. (Lots of labor hours.) > Curious, how are you able to turn off the radiator and fan? > John > http://www.imcool.com/articles/antifreeze-coolant/whygoodradsgobad.htm > Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: > http://www.imcool.com/ > > …I notice also it only comes out > > when I have the radiator > > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > > last few days, and the leak seems to stop.
Response:
> As the others have said, your heater core (inside the dash, along side the a/c evaporator) > has sprung a leak. > Heater cores are no longer practical to repair, just replaced. > It could be expensive because a technician may have to dig deeply into the dash, even > remove it. (Lots of labor hours.) > Curious, how are you able to turn off the radiator and fan?
I think I made a typo. I mean I turned off the AC, and I turned off the fan that blows AC cool air into the inside of the car. There is actually such a slider switch in my car, its like FAN: (low, med, high). My car is 1988. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> John > http://www.imcool.com/articles/antifreeze-coolant/whygoodradsgobad.htm > Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: > http://www.imcool.com/ > …I notice also it only comes out > when I have the radiator > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > last few days, and the leak seems to stop.
Response:
:I’m thinking he meant turning off the *Heater* inside the car. : :And this would make sense, no heater, no leakage.. the vaulve closes and :restricts the water getting to the leak.. the core is still under pressure when off. I drove around with mine bypassed for about a year (through a philly winter!). Note that you can wear gloves but the defrost is really hard to live without.
Response:
hi, Are not the heater cores designed to drain the leaking fluid to the the out side on the passenger side at the back of the engine? thanks. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The heater core has a hole in it. Replace the heater core. > DS
Response:
As the others have said, your heater core (inside the dash, along side the a/c evaporator) has sprung a leak. Heater cores are no longer practical to repair, just replaced. It could be expensive because a technician may have to dig deeply into the dash, even remove it. (Lots of labor hours.) Curious, how are you able to turn off the radiator and fan? John http://www.imcool.com/articles/antifreeze-coolant/whygoodradsgobad.htm Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: http://www.imcool.com/ – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > …I notice also it only comes out > when I have the radiator > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > last few days, and the leak seems to stop.
Response:
I’m thinking he meant turning off the *Heater* inside the car. And this would make sense, no heater, no leakage.. the vaulve closes and restricts the water getting to the leak.. Either : 1) don’t turn the heater on, 2) replace the inside heater core, or 3) if you wanted to be sneaky – I’ve done this on a couple of my old beaters is just find where the hoses circulate into the firwall, and put a splice in between the two ingoing and outgoing hoses so you effectively bypass the heater core inside the car. This of course will render your heater useless. It will also stop the leaking. Depending on how old of a car it is, and what climate you live in, you may not care if the heater works or not. I’ve not heard of any negative effects of doing this, probably better to have the thing disconnected than having that stuff running into your car – what a terrible smell. -Brian
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> As the others have said, your heater core (inside the dash, along side the a/c evaporator) > has sprung a leak. > Heater cores are no longer practical to repair, just replaced. > It could be expensive because a technician may have to dig deeply into the dash, even > remove it. (Lots of labor hours.) > Curious, how are you able to turn off the radiator and fan? > John > http://www.imcool.com/articles/antifreeze-coolant/whygoodradsgobad.htm > Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: > http://www.imcool.com/
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> …I notice also it only comes out > when I have the radiator > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > last few days, and the leak seems to stop.
Response:
The heater core has a hole in it. Replace the heater core. DS
Response:
hi, your connection is bad. i donot think the heater core gone bad. The problem is that your connection gone bad in the engine department. It leaks under high presure and it stays on hose till it gets into the car. If the heater core leaks, it is design to throw it away. on the other hand, since you get the fluid when the fan is running, it shows that it leaks only under high presure. what you can do is, you can follow the hoses entering the compartment, just behind the engine, two of them, nearly middle but closer to the driver side, next to each other. one of them comes from intake manifold, and the other goes directly to the radidator. you can run the engine and wait till it gets hot. after then stop it and look if the connection leaks or not. you can use a tovel to role around the connections to get every drop back when the engine is running. good luck. If the car has same design with 88 grand am, i can help more. bye/ put antifirze in to radiator when ever your light comes on. it is very improtant and if you over heat once, the engine might go bad.-most of the time it goes bad and you cannot detect the problem after-. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > hello all, I am wondering if you can help me figure out where this leak > is coming from. > My car, 1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera, 4door sedan, recently start to > leak a greenish > fluid into the passenger compartment just under the dash and it seems to > be coming > out of the heater vent. It appears to be engine coolant fluid, aka > antifreeze. I don’t understand > how it gets there from the radiator. I notice also it only comes out > when I have the radiator > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > last few days, and the leak seems > to stop. > I just don’t understand where the leak could have come from though, I > thought the radiator > heat exhanger only have freon running inside of it. And why does it > seems to be running out > of the under the dash heater vent? It spills into the carpets on both > the driver side and passenger > side, at the place where you put your feet. > Any pointers, opinions etc. are appreciated.
Response:
hello all, I am wondering if you can help me figure out where this leak is coming from. My car, 1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera, 4door sedan, recently start to leak a greenish fluid into the passenger compartment just under the dash and it seems to be coming out of the heater vent. It appears to be engine coolant fluid, aka antifreeze. I don’t understand how it gets there from the radiator. I notice also it only comes out when I have the radiator and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the last few days, and the leak seems to stop. I just don’t understand where the leak could have come from though, I thought the radiator heat exhanger only have freon running inside of it. And why does it seems to be running out of the under the dash heater vent? It spills into the carpets on both the driver side and passenger side, at the place where you put your feet. Any pointers, opinions etc. are appreciated.
Response:
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > hello all, I am wondering if you can help me figure out where this leak > is coming from. > My car, 1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera, 4door sedan, recently start to > leak a greenish > fluid into the passenger compartment just under the dash and it seems to > be coming > out of the heater vent. It appears to be engine coolant fluid, aka > antifreeze. I don’t understand > how it gets there from the radiator. I notice also it only comes out > when I have the radiator > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > last few days, and the leak seems > to stop. > I just don’t understand where the leak could have come from though, I > thought the radiator > heat exhanger only have freon running inside of it. And why does it > seems to be running out > of the under the dash heater vent? It spills into the carpets on both > the driver side and passenger > side, at the place where you put your feet. > Any pointers, opinions etc. are appreciated.
Hot water from the engine circulates through the heater core. That is how you stay warm in the winter. The heater core blew up. Replace it.
Response:
Don’t forget to replace stiff heater hoses and ck for bad motor mounts.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Thanks for that clarification on both parts, especially on the tank-tube detail. > Sorry about the tube confusion, but that’s the "core" manufacturing in me coming out. > Chuckle, > John > Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: > http://www.imcool.com/ > you don’t have to take off anything except the underdash panels to remove > the AC ducts, and the cover over the core (plus a console extension if so > equipped) a 1/4" air ratchet, a 6" extension, and a 7 mm (or 9/32 socket) ‘mirrors > on a stick’ deals to help you find the screws > OE cores have plastic tanks with a very short plastic tube, a longer plastic > tube with any offset needed is ’sonically welded’ to the short > tube…….and this junction is where about 90 % of them leak….vibration > and flexing of the hoses breaks the sonic weld
Response:
Hi, When I bought my 88 olds ciera it had the same problem. Just replace the heater core. That way, it will get rid of any doubt, since you will have replaced everything under that dash that contains antifreeze, and have tightened the connections. It is a part that is less than twenty dollars, 15 at autozone. It is located just above the "hump" in the floor under the dash. I believe there are 4 screws around the black plastic cover. Take those out. Then, under the hood on the firewall just behind the power steering pump, disconnect the two black water hoses. Then, just unbolt the core and take it out to replace it. It takes less than an hour to do. Make sure you drain the cooling system first. Good Luck Rob – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > hello all, I am wondering if you can help me figure out where this leak > is coming from. > My car, 1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera, 4door sedan, recently start to > leak a greenish > fluid into the passenger compartment just under the dash and it seems to > be coming > out of the heater vent. It appears to be engine coolant fluid, aka > antifreeze. I don’t understand > how it gets there from the radiator. I notice also it only comes out > when I have the radiator > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > last few days, and the leak seems > to stop. > I just don’t understand where the leak could have come from though, I > thought the radiator > heat exhanger only have freon running inside of it. And why does it > seems to be running out > of the under the dash heater vent? It spills into the carpets on both > the driver side and passenger > side, at the place where you put your feet. > Any pointers, opinions etc. are appreciated.
Response:
> the core is still under pressure when off. I drove around with > mine bypassed for about a year (through a philly winter!). > Note that you can wear gloves but the defrost is really hard > to live without.
Hey, I had a car like that. In fact, a couple of them. My ‘64 Karmen Ghia had no heat as the air ducts were rusted out. I carried an ice scraper to use as a "defroster". Ed http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
Response:
Your options are: 1. as someone has already said, bypass the heater by disconnecting them from the heater core and using a pipe to re-connect them together. (No heat in the winter, but also, no heat for the defroster during any summer/fall rainshowers when windshields fog up.) 2. have the heater core changed now and forget the problem. Note: turning the heat lever to full cold will not necessarily shut off all hot water to the heater core. Often, those valves still leak quite a bit, enough to give you heat into the cabin when you least want it…on 95F days! Some people do install an aftermarket heater control valve that allows them to full shut off the flow of hot coolant to the heater from inside the cabin. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I think I made a typo. I mean I turned off the AC, and I turned off the fan > that blows AC cool air into the inside of the car. There is actually such a slider switch in > my car, > its like FAN: (low, med, high). My car is 1988.
Response:
That was probably because the VW didn’t have any antifreeze! ;) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> the core is still under pressure when off. I drove around with > mine bypassed for about a year (through a philly winter!). > Note that you can wear gloves but the defrost is really hard > to live without. > Hey, I had a car like that. In fact, a couple of them. My ‘64 Karmen Ghia > had no heat as the air ducts were rusted out. I carried an ice scraper to > use as a "defroster". > Ed > http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
Response:
just replace the damned heater core 1) the heater core and AC condenser share a common drain 2) there is no ’shut-off’ for heater water on this vehicle, it ’shuts off the heat’ by swinging the ‘blend door’ to a position where air does not pass thru the heater core 3) its a 2-hour job at worst 4) be sure to use a core with brass tubes instead of those crappy plastic ones like the factory uses just do it
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Your options are: > 1. as someone has already said, bypass the heater by disconnecting them from the heater > core and using a pipe to re-connect them together. > (No heat in the winter, but also, no heat for the defroster during any summer/fall > rainshowers when windshields fog up.) > 2. have the heater core changed now and forget the problem. > Note: turning the heat lever to full cold will not necessarily shut off all hot water to > the heater core. Often, those valves still leak quite a bit, enough to give you heat into > the cabin when you least want it…on 95F days! Some people do install an aftermarket > heater control valve that allows them to full shut off the flow of hot coolant to the > heater from inside the cabin.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I think I made a typo. I mean I turned off the AC, and I turned off the fan > that blows AC cool air into the inside of the car. There is actually such a slider > switch in > my car, > its like FAN: (low, med, high). My car is 1988.
Response:
it’s more than likely the heater core..my ex 86 bronco did the same exact thing
Response:
3. Are you sure about the 2-hour job? Not if they have to pull the dash and any a/c components. 4. Not to be a wise ass, but the original heaters are actually made with aluminum cores (and tubes). Only the crimped-on tanks are made of plastic. Aftermarket replacements could be copper fins with brass tubes and soldered-on brass tanks. John (a former employee of a copper-brass radiator/heater manufacturer that got "displaced" by aluminum and plastic) Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: http://www.imcool.com/
… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 3) its a 2-hour job at worst > 4) be sure to use a core with brass tubes instead of those crappy plastic > ones like the factory uses
Response:
you don’t have to take off anything except the underdash panels to remove the AC ducts, and the cover over the core (plus a console extension if so equipped) a 1/4" air ratchet, a 6" extension, and a 7 mm (or 9/32 socket) on a stick’ deals to help you find the screws OE cores have plastic tanks with a very short plastic tube, a longer plastic tube with any offset needed is ’sonically welded’ to the short tube…….and this juction is where about 90 % of them leak….vibration and flexing of the hoses breaks the sonic weld
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 3. Are you sure about the 2-hour job? Not if they have to pull the dash and any a/c > components. > 4. Not to be a wise ass, but the original heaters are actually made with aluminum cores > (and tubes). Only the crimped-on tanks are made of plastic. > Aftermarket replacements could be copper fins with brass tubes and soldered-on brass > tanks. > John > (a former employee of a copper-brass radiator/heater manufacturer that got "displaced" by > aluminum and plastic) > Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: > http://www.imcool.com/ > … > 3) its a 2-hour job at worst > 4) be sure to use a core with brass tubes instead of those crappy plastic > ones like the factory uses
Response:
Thanks for that clarification on both parts, especially on the tank-tube detail. Sorry about the tube confusion, but that’s the "core" manufacturing in me coming out. Chuckle, John Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: http://www.imcool.com/
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> you don’t have to take off anything except the underdash panels to remove > the AC ducts, and the cover over the core (plus a console extension if so > equipped) a 1/4" air ratchet, a 6" extension, and a 7 mm (or 9/32 socket) > on a stick’ deals to help you find the screws > OE cores have plastic tanks with a very short plastic tube, a longer plastic > tube with any offset needed is ’sonically welded’ to the short > tube…….and this junction is where about 90 % of them leak….vibration > and flexing of the hoses breaks the sonic weld
Response:
:I’m thinking he meant turning off the *Heater* inside the car. : :And this would make sense, no heater, no leakage.. the vaulve closes and :restricts the water getting to the leak.. the core is still under pressure when off. I drove around with mine bypassed for about a year (through a philly winter!). Note that you can wear gloves but the defrost is really hard to live without.
Response:
> As the others have said, your heater core (inside the dash, along side the a/c evaporator) > has sprung a leak. > Heater cores are no longer practical to repair, just replaced. > It could be expensive because a technician may have to dig deeply into the dash, even > remove it. (Lots of labor hours.) > Curious, how are you able to turn off the radiator and fan?
I think I made a typo. I mean I turned off the AC, and I turned off the fan that blows AC cool air into the inside of the car. There is actually such a slider switch in my car, its like FAN: (low, med, high). My car is 1988. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> John > http://www.imcool.com/articles/antifreeze-coolant/whygoodradsgobad.htm > Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: > http://www.imcool.com/ > …I notice also it only comes out > when I have the radiator > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > last few days, and the leak seems to stop.
Response:
> I’m thinking he meant turning off the *Heater* inside the car.
No I mean I turned off the AC and the fan which blows cool air from the AC unit into the car. No I don’t turn on the heater in the summer. But funny enough, on my car, the switch for turning on the AC and heater is the same one, you just slide it to different location. I wish I have a digital camera, I would take a picture for all to see. AC Max Normal Bi-Level Heater Def ^^^^ This is where the slider switch was placed at Fan Low Med High ^^^^ I had it on high. > And this would make sense, no heater, no leakage.. the vaulve closes and > restricts the water getting to the leak.. > Either : > 1) don’t turn the heater on,
I didn’t, I only turned on the AC. > 2) replace the inside heater core, or > 3) if you wanted to be sneaky – I’ve done this on a couple of my old > beaters is just find where the hoses circulate into the firwall, and put a > splice in between the two ingoing and outgoing hoses so you effectively > bypass the heater core inside the car. This of course will render your > heater useless. It will also stop the leaking. Depending on how old of a > car it is, and what climate you live in, you may not care if the heater
I live in Toronto, Canada. And you don’t want to drive without a heater in late Dec, Jan, Feb, even Mar here. > works or not. I’ve not heard of any negative effects of doing this, > probably better to have the thing disconnected than having that stuff > running into your car – what a terrible smell.
Yeah, it smells like anti-freeze. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> -Brian > As the others have said, your heater core (inside the dash, along side the > a/c evaporator) > has sprung a leak. > Heater cores are no longer practical to repair, just replaced. > It could be expensive because a technician may have to dig deeply into the > dash, even > remove it. (Lots of labor hours.) > Curious, how are you able to turn off the radiator and fan? > John > http://www.imcool.com/articles/antifreeze-coolant/whygoodradsgobad.htm > Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: > http://www.imcool.com/ > > …I notice also it only comes out > > when I have the radiator > > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > > last few days, and the leak seems to stop.
Response:
I’m thinking he meant turning off the *Heater* inside the car. And this would make sense, no heater, no leakage.. the vaulve closes and restricts the water getting to the leak.. Either : 1) don’t turn the heater on, 2) replace the inside heater core, or 3) if you wanted to be sneaky – I’ve done this on a couple of my old beaters is just find where the hoses circulate into the firwall, and put a splice in between the two ingoing and outgoing hoses so you effectively bypass the heater core inside the car. This of course will render your heater useless. It will also stop the leaking. Depending on how old of a car it is, and what climate you live in, you may not care if the heater works or not. I’ve not heard of any negative effects of doing this, probably better to have the thing disconnected than having that stuff running into your car – what a terrible smell. -Brian
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> As the others have said, your heater core (inside the dash, along side the a/c evaporator) > has sprung a leak. > Heater cores are no longer practical to repair, just replaced. > It could be expensive because a technician may have to dig deeply into the dash, even > remove it. (Lots of labor hours.) > Curious, how are you able to turn off the radiator and fan? > John > http://www.imcool.com/articles/antifreeze-coolant/whygoodradsgobad.htm > Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: > http://www.imcool.com/
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> …I notice also it only comes out > when I have the radiator > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > last few days, and the leak seems to stop.
Response:
As the others have said, your heater core (inside the dash, along side the a/c evaporator) has sprung a leak. Heater cores are no longer practical to repair, just replaced. It could be expensive because a technician may have to dig deeply into the dash, even remove it. (Lots of labor hours.) Curious, how are you able to turn off the radiator and fan? John http://www.imcool.com/articles/antifreeze-coolant/whygoodradsgobad.htm Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: http://www.imcool.com/ – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > …I notice also it only comes out > when I have the radiator > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > last few days, and the leak seems to stop.
Response:
hello all, I am wondering if you can help me figure out where this leak is coming from. My car, 1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera, 4door sedan, recently start to leak a greenish fluid into the passenger compartment just under the dash and it seems to be coming out of the heater vent. It appears to be engine coolant fluid, aka antifreeze. I don’t understand how it gets there from the radiator. I notice also it only comes out when I have the radiator and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the last few days, and the leak seems to stop. I just don’t understand where the leak could have come from though, I thought the radiator heat exhanger only have freon running inside of it. And why does it seems to be running out of the under the dash heater vent? It spills into the carpets on both the driver side and passenger side, at the place where you put your feet. Any pointers, opinions etc. are appreciated.
Response:
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > hello all, I am wondering if you can help me figure out where this leak > is coming from. > My car, 1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera, 4door sedan, recently start to > leak a greenish > fluid into the passenger compartment just under the dash and it seems to > be coming > out of the heater vent. It appears to be engine coolant fluid, aka > antifreeze. I don’t understand > how it gets there from the radiator. I notice also it only comes out > when I have the radiator > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > last few days, and the leak seems > to stop. > I just don’t understand where the leak could have come from though, I > thought the radiator > heat exhanger only have freon running inside of it. And why does it > seems to be running out > of the under the dash heater vent? It spills into the carpets on both > the driver side and passenger > side, at the place where you put your feet. > Any pointers, opinions etc. are appreciated.
Hot water from the engine circulates through the heater core. That is how you stay warm in the winter. The heater core blew up. Replace it.
Response:
Don’t forget to replace stiff heater hoses and ck for bad motor mounts.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Thanks for that clarification on both parts, especially on the tank-tube detail. > Sorry about the tube confusion, but that’s the "core" manufacturing in me coming out. > Chuckle, > John > Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: > http://www.imcool.com/ > you don’t have to take off anything except the underdash panels to remove > the AC ducts, and the cover over the core (plus a console extension if so > equipped) a 1/4" air ratchet, a 6" extension, and a 7 mm (or 9/32 socket) ‘mirrors > on a stick’ deals to help you find the screws > OE cores have plastic tanks with a very short plastic tube, a longer plastic > tube with any offset needed is ’sonically welded’ to the short > tube…….and this junction is where about 90 % of them leak….vibration > and flexing of the hoses breaks the sonic weld
Response:
Hi, When I bought my 88 olds ciera it had the same problem. Just replace the heater core. That way, it will get rid of any doubt, since you will have replaced everything under that dash that contains antifreeze, and have tightened the connections. It is a part that is less than twenty dollars, 15 at autozone. It is located just above the "hump" in the floor under the dash. I believe there are 4 screws around the black plastic cover. Take those out. Then, under the hood on the firewall just behind the power steering pump, disconnect the two black water hoses. Then, just unbolt the core and take it out to replace it. It takes less than an hour to do. Make sure you drain the cooling system first. Good Luck Rob – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > hello all, I am wondering if you can help me figure out where this leak > is coming from. > My car, 1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera, 4door sedan, recently start to > leak a greenish > fluid into the passenger compartment just under the dash and it seems to > be coming > out of the heater vent. It appears to be engine coolant fluid, aka > antifreeze. I don’t understand > how it gets there from the radiator. I notice also it only comes out > when I have the radiator > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > last few days, and the leak seems > to stop. > I just don’t understand where the leak could have come from though, I > thought the radiator > heat exhanger only have freon running inside of it. And why does it > seems to be running out > of the under the dash heater vent? It spills into the carpets on both > the driver side and passenger > side, at the place where you put your feet. > Any pointers, opinions etc. are appreciated.
Response:
> the core is still under pressure when off. I drove around with > mine bypassed for about a year (through a philly winter!). > Note that you can wear gloves but the defrost is really hard > to live without.
Hey, I had a car like that. In fact, a couple of them. My ‘64 Karmen Ghia had no heat as the air ducts were rusted out. I carried an ice scraper to use as a "defroster". Ed http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
Response:
Your options are: 1. as someone has already said, bypass the heater by disconnecting them from the heater core and using a pipe to re-connect them together. (No heat in the winter, but also, no heat for the defroster during any summer/fall rainshowers when windshields fog up.) 2. have the heater core changed now and forget the problem. Note: turning the heat lever to full cold will not necessarily shut off all hot water to the heater core. Often, those valves still leak quite a bit, enough to give you heat into the cabin when you least want it…on 95F days! Some people do install an aftermarket heater control valve that allows them to full shut off the flow of hot coolant to the heater from inside the cabin. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I think I made a typo. I mean I turned off the AC, and I turned off the fan > that blows AC cool air into the inside of the car. There is actually such a slider switch in > my car, > its like FAN: (low, med, high). My car is 1988.
Response:
That was probably because the VW didn’t have any antifreeze! ;) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> the core is still under pressure when off. I drove around with > mine bypassed for about a year (through a philly winter!). > Note that you can wear gloves but the defrost is really hard > to live without. > Hey, I had a car like that. In fact, a couple of them. My ‘64 Karmen Ghia > had no heat as the air ducts were rusted out. I carried an ice scraper to > use as a "defroster". > Ed > http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
Response:
just replace the damned heater core 1) the heater core and AC condenser share a common drain 2) there is no ’shut-off’ for heater water on this vehicle, it ’shuts off the heat’ by swinging the ‘blend door’ to a position where air does not pass thru the heater core 3) its a 2-hour job at worst 4) be sure to use a core with brass tubes instead of those crappy plastic ones like the factory uses just do it
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Your options are: > 1. as someone has already said, bypass the heater by disconnecting them from the heater > core and using a pipe to re-connect them together. > (No heat in the winter, but also, no heat for the defroster during any summer/fall > rainshowers when windshields fog up.) > 2. have the heater core changed now and forget the problem. > Note: turning the heat lever to full cold will not necessarily shut off all hot water to > the heater core. Often, those valves still leak quite a bit, enough to give you heat into > the cabin when you least want it…on 95F days! Some people do install an aftermarket > heater control valve that allows them to full shut off the flow of hot coolant to the > heater from inside the cabin.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I think I made a typo. I mean I turned off the AC, and I turned off the fan > that blows AC cool air into the inside of the car. There is actually such a slider > switch in > my car, > its like FAN: (low, med, high). My car is 1988.
Response:
it’s more than likely the heater core..my ex 86 bronco did the same exact thing
Response:
3. Are you sure about the 2-hour job? Not if they have to pull the dash and any a/c components. 4. Not to be a wise ass, but the original heaters are actually made with aluminum cores (and tubes). Only the crimped-on tanks are made of plastic. Aftermarket replacements could be copper fins with brass tubes and soldered-on brass tanks. John (a former employee of a copper-brass radiator/heater manufacturer that got "displaced" by aluminum and plastic) Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: http://www.imcool.com/
… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 3) its a 2-hour job at worst > 4) be sure to use a core with brass tubes instead of those crappy plastic > ones like the factory uses
Response:
you don’t have to take off anything except the underdash panels to remove the AC ducts, and the cover over the core (plus a console extension if so equipped) a 1/4" air ratchet, a 6" extension, and a 7 mm (or 9/32 socket) on a stick’ deals to help you find the screws OE cores have plastic tanks with a very short plastic tube, a longer plastic tube with any offset needed is ’sonically welded’ to the short tube…….and this juction is where about 90 % of them leak….vibration and flexing of the hoses breaks the sonic weld
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 3. Are you sure about the 2-hour job? Not if they have to pull the dash and any a/c > components. > 4. Not to be a wise ass, but the original heaters are actually made with aluminum cores > (and tubes). Only the crimped-on tanks are made of plastic. > Aftermarket replacements could be copper fins with brass tubes and soldered-on brass > tanks. > John > (a former employee of a copper-brass radiator/heater manufacturer that got "displaced" by > aluminum and plastic) > Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: > http://www.imcool.com/ > … > 3) its a 2-hour job at worst > 4) be sure to use a core with brass tubes instead of those crappy plastic > ones like the factory uses
Response:
Thanks for that clarification on both parts, especially on the tank-tube detail. Sorry about the tube confusion, but that’s the "core" manufacturing in me coming out. Chuckle, John Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: http://www.imcool.com/
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> you don’t have to take off anything except the underdash panels to remove > the AC ducts, and the cover over the core (plus a console extension if so > equipped) a 1/4" air ratchet, a 6" extension, and a 7 mm (or 9/32 socket) > on a stick’ deals to help you find the screws > OE cores have plastic tanks with a very short plastic tube, a longer plastic > tube with any offset needed is ’sonically welded’ to the short > tube…….and this junction is where about 90 % of them leak….vibration > and flexing of the hoses breaks the sonic weld
Response:
:I’m thinking he meant turning off the *Heater* inside the car. : :And this would make sense, no heater, no leakage.. the vaulve closes and :restricts the water getting to the leak.. the core is still under pressure when off. I drove around with mine bypassed for about a year (through a philly winter!). Note that you can wear gloves but the defrost is really hard to live without.
Response:
> As the others have said, your heater core (inside the dash, along side the a/c evaporator) > has sprung a leak. > Heater cores are no longer practical to repair, just replaced. > It could be expensive because a technician may have to dig deeply into the dash, even > remove it. (Lots of labor hours.) > Curious, how are you able to turn off the radiator and fan?
I think I made a typo. I mean I turned off the AC, and I turned off the fan that blows AC cool air into the inside of the car. There is actually such a slider switch in my car, its like FAN: (low, med, high). My car is 1988. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> John > http://www.imcool.com/articles/antifreeze-coolant/whygoodradsgobad.htm > Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: > http://www.imcool.com/ > …I notice also it only comes out > when I have the radiator > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > last few days, and the leak seems to stop.
Response:
> I’m thinking he meant turning off the *Heater* inside the car.
No I mean I turned off the AC and the fan which blows cool air from the AC unit into the car. No I don’t turn on the heater in the summer. But funny enough, on my car, the switch for turning on the AC and heater is the same one, you just slide it to different location. I wish I have a digital camera, I would take a picture for all to see. AC Max Normal Bi-Level Heater Def ^^^^ This is where the slider switch was placed at Fan Low Med High ^^^^ I had it on high. > And this would make sense, no heater, no leakage.. the vaulve closes and > restricts the water getting to the leak.. > Either : > 1) don’t turn the heater on,
I didn’t, I only turned on the AC. > 2) replace the inside heater core, or > 3) if you wanted to be sneaky – I’ve done this on a couple of my old > beaters is just find where the hoses circulate into the firwall, and put a > splice in between the two ingoing and outgoing hoses so you effectively > bypass the heater core inside the car. This of course will render your > heater useless. It will also stop the leaking. Depending on how old of a > car it is, and what climate you live in, you may not care if the heater
I live in Toronto, Canada. And you don’t want to drive without a heater in late Dec, Jan, Feb, even Mar here. > works or not. I’ve not heard of any negative effects of doing this, > probably better to have the thing disconnected than having that stuff > running into your car – what a terrible smell.
Yeah, it smells like anti-freeze. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> -Brian > As the others have said, your heater core (inside the dash, along side the > a/c evaporator) > has sprung a leak. > Heater cores are no longer practical to repair, just replaced. > It could be expensive because a technician may have to dig deeply into the > dash, even > remove it. (Lots of labor hours.) > Curious, how are you able to turn off the radiator and fan? > John > http://www.imcool.com/articles/antifreeze-coolant/whygoodradsgobad.htm > Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: > http://www.imcool.com/ > > …I notice also it only comes out > > when I have the radiator > > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > > last few days, and the leak seems to stop.
Response:
I’m thinking he meant turning off the *Heater* inside the car. And this would make sense, no heater, no leakage.. the vaulve closes and restricts the water getting to the leak.. Either : 1) don’t turn the heater on, 2) replace the inside heater core, or 3) if you wanted to be sneaky – I’ve done this on a couple of my old beaters is just find where the hoses circulate into the firwall, and put a splice in between the two ingoing and outgoing hoses so you effectively bypass the heater core inside the car. This of course will render your heater useless. It will also stop the leaking. Depending on how old of a car it is, and what climate you live in, you may not care if the heater works or not. I’ve not heard of any negative effects of doing this, probably better to have the thing disconnected than having that stuff running into your car – what a terrible smell. -Brian
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> As the others have said, your heater core (inside the dash, along side the a/c evaporator) > has sprung a leak. > Heater cores are no longer practical to repair, just replaced. > It could be expensive because a technician may have to dig deeply into the dash, even > remove it. (Lots of labor hours.) > Curious, how are you able to turn off the radiator and fan? > John > http://www.imcool.com/articles/antifreeze-coolant/whygoodradsgobad.htm > Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: > http://www.imcool.com/
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> …I notice also it only comes out > when I have the radiator > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > last few days, and the leak seems to stop.
Response:
As the others have said, your heater core (inside the dash, along side the a/c evaporator) has sprung a leak. Heater cores are no longer practical to repair, just replaced. It could be expensive because a technician may have to dig deeply into the dash, even remove it. (Lots of labor hours.) Curious, how are you able to turn off the radiator and fan? John http://www.imcool.com/articles/antifreeze-coolant/whygoodradsgobad.htm Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: http://www.imcool.com/ – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > …I notice also it only comes out > when I have the radiator > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > last few days, and the leak seems to stop.
Response:
hello all, I am wondering if you can help me figure out where this leak is coming from. My car, 1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera, 4door sedan, recently start to leak a greenish fluid into the passenger compartment just under the dash and it seems to be coming out of the heater vent. It appears to be engine coolant fluid, aka antifreeze. I don’t understand how it gets there from the radiator. I notice also it only comes out when I have the radiator and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the last few days, and the leak seems to stop. I just don’t understand where the leak could have come from though, I thought the radiator heat exhanger only have freon running inside of it. And why does it seems to be running out of the under the dash heater vent? It spills into the carpets on both the driver side and passenger side, at the place where you put your feet. Any pointers, opinions etc. are appreciated.
Response:
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > hello all, I am wondering if you can help me figure out where this leak > is coming from. > My car, 1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera, 4door sedan, recently start to > leak a greenish > fluid into the passenger compartment just under the dash and it seems to > be coming > out of the heater vent. It appears to be engine coolant fluid, aka > antifreeze. I don’t understand > how it gets there from the radiator. I notice also it only comes out > when I have the radiator > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > last few days, and the leak seems > to stop. > I just don’t understand where the leak could have come from though, I > thought the radiator > heat exhanger only have freon running inside of it. And why does it > seems to be running out > of the under the dash heater vent? It spills into the carpets on both > the driver side and passenger > side, at the place where you put your feet. > Any pointers, opinions etc. are appreciated.
Hot water from the engine circulates through the heater core. That is how you stay warm in the winter. The heater core blew up. Replace it.
Response:
Don’t forget to replace stiff heater hoses and ck for bad motor mounts.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Thanks for that clarification on both parts, especially on the tank-tube detail. > Sorry about the tube confusion, but that’s the "core" manufacturing in me coming out. > Chuckle, > John > Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: > http://www.imcool.com/ > you don’t have to take off anything except the underdash panels to remove > the AC ducts, and the cover over the core (plus a console extension if so > equipped) a 1/4" air ratchet, a 6" extension, and a 7 mm (or 9/32 socket) ‘mirrors > on a stick’ deals to help you find the screws > OE cores have plastic tanks with a very short plastic tube, a longer plastic > tube with any offset needed is ’sonically welded’ to the short > tube…….and this junction is where about 90 % of them leak….vibration > and flexing of the hoses breaks the sonic weld
Response:
Hi, When I bought my 88 olds ciera it had the same problem. Just replace the heater core. That way, it will get rid of any doubt, since you will have replaced everything under that dash that contains antifreeze, and have tightened the connections. It is a part that is less than twenty dollars, 15 at autozone. It is located just above the "hump" in the floor under the dash. I believe there are 4 screws around the black plastic cover. Take those out. Then, under the hood on the firewall just behind the power steering pump, disconnect the two black water hoses. Then, just unbolt the core and take it out to replace it. It takes less than an hour to do. Make sure you drain the cooling system first. Good Luck Rob – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > hello all, I am wondering if you can help me figure out where this leak > is coming from. > My car, 1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera, 4door sedan, recently start to > leak a greenish > fluid into the passenger compartment just under the dash and it seems to > be coming > out of the heater vent. It appears to be engine coolant fluid, aka > antifreeze. I don’t understand > how it gets there from the radiator. I notice also it only comes out > when I have the radiator > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > last few days, and the leak seems > to stop. > I just don’t understand where the leak could have come from though, I > thought the radiator > heat exhanger only have freon running inside of it. And why does it > seems to be running out > of the under the dash heater vent? It spills into the carpets on both > the driver side and passenger > side, at the place where you put your feet. > Any pointers, opinions etc. are appreciated.
Response:
> the core is still under pressure when off. I drove around with > mine bypassed for about a year (through a philly winter!). > Note that you can wear gloves but the defrost is really hard > to live without.
Hey, I had a car like that. In fact, a couple of them. My ‘64 Karmen Ghia had no heat as the air ducts were rusted out. I carried an ice scraper to use as a "defroster". Ed http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
Response:
Your options are: 1. as someone has already said, bypass the heater by disconnecting them from the heater core and using a pipe to re-connect them together. (No heat in the winter, but also, no heat for the defroster during any summer/fall rainshowers when windshields fog up.) 2. have the heater core changed now and forget the problem. Note: turning the heat lever to full cold will not necessarily shut off all hot water to the heater core. Often, those valves still leak quite a bit, enough to give you heat into the cabin when you least want it…on 95F days! Some people do install an aftermarket heater control valve that allows them to full shut off the flow of hot coolant to the heater from inside the cabin. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I think I made a typo. I mean I turned off the AC, and I turned off the fan > that blows AC cool air into the inside of the car. There is actually such a slider switch in > my car, > its like FAN: (low, med, high). My car is 1988.
Response:
That was probably because the VW didn’t have any antifreeze! ;) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> the core is still under pressure when off. I drove around with > mine bypassed for about a year (through a philly winter!). > Note that you can wear gloves but the defrost is really hard > to live without. > Hey, I had a car like that. In fact, a couple of them. My ‘64 Karmen Ghia > had no heat as the air ducts were rusted out. I carried an ice scraper to > use as a "defroster". > Ed > http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
Response:
just replace the damned heater core 1) the heater core and AC condenser share a common drain 2) there is no ’shut-off’ for heater water on this vehicle, it ’shuts off the heat’ by swinging the ‘blend door’ to a position where air does not pass thru the heater core 3) its a 2-hour job at worst 4) be sure to use a core with brass tubes instead of those crappy plastic ones like the factory uses just do it
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Your options are: > 1. as someone has already said, bypass the heater by disconnecting them from the heater > core and using a pipe to re-connect them together. > (No heat in the winter, but also, no heat for the defroster during any summer/fall > rainshowers when windshields fog up.) > 2. have the heater core changed now and forget the problem. > Note: turning the heat lever to full cold will not necessarily shut off all hot water to > the heater core. Often, those valves still leak quite a bit, enough to give you heat into > the cabin when you least want it…on 95F days! Some people do install an aftermarket > heater control valve that allows them to full shut off the flow of hot coolant to the > heater from inside the cabin.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I think I made a typo. I mean I turned off the AC, and I turned off the fan > that blows AC cool air into the inside of the car. There is actually such a slider > switch in > my car, > its like FAN: (low, med, high). My car is 1988.
Response:
it’s more than likely the heater core..my ex 86 bronco did the same exact thing
Response:
3. Are you sure about the 2-hour job? Not if they have to pull the dash and any a/c components. 4. Not to be a wise ass, but the original heaters are actually made with aluminum cores (and tubes). Only the crimped-on tanks are made of plastic. Aftermarket replacements could be copper fins with brass tubes and soldered-on brass tanks. John (a former employee of a copper-brass radiator/heater manufacturer that got "displaced" by aluminum and plastic) Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: http://www.imcool.com/
… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 3) its a 2-hour job at worst > 4) be sure to use a core with brass tubes instead of those crappy plastic > ones like the factory uses
Response:
you don’t have to take off anything except the underdash panels to remove the AC ducts, and the cover over the core (plus a console extension if so equipped) a 1/4" air ratchet, a 6" extension, and a 7 mm (or 9/32 socket) on a stick’ deals to help you find the screws OE cores have plastic tanks with a very short plastic tube, a longer plastic tube with any offset needed is ’sonically welded’ to the short tube…….and this juction is where about 90 % of them leak….vibration and flexing of the hoses breaks the sonic weld
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 3. Are you sure about the 2-hour job? Not if they have to pull the dash and any a/c > components. > 4. Not to be a wise ass, but the original heaters are actually made with aluminum cores > (and tubes). Only the crimped-on tanks are made of plastic. > Aftermarket replacements could be copper fins with brass tubes and soldered-on brass > tanks. > John > (a former employee of a copper-brass radiator/heater manufacturer that got "displaced" by > aluminum and plastic) > Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: > http://www.imcool.com/ > … > 3) its a 2-hour job at worst > 4) be sure to use a core with brass tubes instead of those crappy plastic > ones like the factory uses
Response:
Thanks for that clarification on both parts, especially on the tank-tube detail. Sorry about the tube confusion, but that’s the "core" manufacturing in me coming out. Chuckle, John Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: http://www.imcool.com/
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> you don’t have to take off anything except the underdash panels to remove > the AC ducts, and the cover over the core (plus a console extension if so > equipped) a 1/4" air ratchet, a 6" extension, and a 7 mm (or 9/32 socket) > on a stick’ deals to help you find the screws > OE cores have plastic tanks with a very short plastic tube, a longer plastic > tube with any offset needed is ’sonically welded’ to the short > tube…….and this junction is where about 90 % of them leak….vibration > and flexing of the hoses breaks the sonic weld
Response:
:I’m thinking he meant turning off the *Heater* inside the car. : :And this would make sense, no heater, no leakage.. the vaulve closes and :restricts the water getting to the leak.. the core is still under pressure when off. I drove around with mine bypassed for about a year (through a philly winter!). Note that you can wear gloves but the defrost is really hard to live without.
Response:
> As the others have said, your heater core (inside the dash, along side the a/c evaporator) > has sprung a leak. > Heater cores are no longer practical to repair, just replaced. > It could be expensive because a technician may have to dig deeply into the dash, even > remove it. (Lots of labor hours.) > Curious, how are you able to turn off the radiator and fan?
I think I made a typo. I mean I turned off the AC, and I turned off the fan that blows AC cool air into the inside of the car. There is actually such a slider switch in my car, its like FAN: (low, med, high). My car is 1988. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> John > http://www.imcool.com/articles/antifreeze-coolant/whygoodradsgobad.htm > Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: > http://www.imcool.com/ > …I notice also it only comes out > when I have the radiator > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > last few days, and the leak seems to stop.
Response:
> I’m thinking he meant turning off the *Heater* inside the car.
No I mean I turned off the AC and the fan which blows cool air from the AC unit into the car. No I don’t turn on the heater in the summer. But funny enough, on my car, the switch for turning on the AC and heater is the same one, you just slide it to different location. I wish I have a digital camera, I would take a picture for all to see. AC Max Normal Bi-Level Heater Def ^^^^ This is where the slider switch was placed at Fan Low Med High ^^^^ I had it on high. > And this would make sense, no heater, no leakage.. the vaulve closes and > restricts the water getting to the leak.. > Either : > 1) don’t turn the heater on,
I didn’t, I only turned on the AC. > 2) replace the inside heater core, or > 3) if you wanted to be sneaky – I’ve done this on a couple of my old > beaters is just find where the hoses circulate into the firwall, and put a > splice in between the two ingoing and outgoing hoses so you effectively > bypass the heater core inside the car. This of course will render your > heater useless. It will also stop the leaking. Depending on how old of a > car it is, and what climate you live in, you may not care if the heater
I live in Toronto, Canada. And you don’t want to drive without a heater in late Dec, Jan, Feb, even Mar here. > works or not. I’ve not heard of any negative effects of doing this, > probably better to have the thing disconnected than having that stuff > running into your car – what a terrible smell.
Yeah, it smells like anti-freeze. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> -Brian > As the others have said, your heater core (inside the dash, along side the > a/c evaporator) > has sprung a leak. > Heater cores are no longer practical to repair, just replaced. > It could be expensive because a technician may have to dig deeply into the > dash, even > remove it. (Lots of labor hours.) > Curious, how are you able to turn off the radiator and fan? > John > http://www.imcool.com/articles/antifreeze-coolant/whygoodradsgobad.htm > Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: > http://www.imcool.com/ > > …I notice also it only comes out > > when I have the radiator > > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > > last few days, and the leak seems to stop.
Response:
I’m thinking he meant turning off the *Heater* inside the car. And this would make sense, no heater, no leakage.. the vaulve closes and restricts the water getting to the leak.. Either : 1) don’t turn the heater on, 2) replace the inside heater core, or 3) if you wanted to be sneaky – I’ve done this on a couple of my old beaters is just find where the hoses circulate into the firwall, and put a splice in between the two ingoing and outgoing hoses so you effectively bypass the heater core inside the car. This of course will render your heater useless. It will also stop the leaking. Depending on how old of a car it is, and what climate you live in, you may not care if the heater works or not. I’ve not heard of any negative effects of doing this, probably better to have the thing disconnected than having that stuff running into your car – what a terrible smell. -Brian
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> As the others have said, your heater core (inside the dash, along side the a/c evaporator) > has sprung a leak. > Heater cores are no longer practical to repair, just replaced. > It could be expensive because a technician may have to dig deeply into the dash, even > remove it. (Lots of labor hours.) > Curious, how are you able to turn off the radiator and fan? > John > http://www.imcool.com/articles/antifreeze-coolant/whygoodradsgobad.htm > Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: > http://www.imcool.com/
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> …I notice also it only comes out > when I have the radiator > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > last few days, and the leak seems to stop.
Response:
As the others have said, your heater core (inside the dash, along side the a/c evaporator) has sprung a leak. Heater cores are no longer practical to repair, just replaced. It could be expensive because a technician may have to dig deeply into the dash, even remove it. (Lots of labor hours.) Curious, how are you able to turn off the radiator and fan? John http://www.imcool.com/articles/antifreeze-coolant/whygoodradsgobad.htm Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: http://www.imcool.com/ – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > …I notice also it only comes out > when I have the radiator > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > last few days, and the leak seems to stop.
Response:
hello all, I am wondering if you can help me figure out where this leak is coming from. My car, 1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera, 4door sedan, recently start to leak a greenish fluid into the passenger compartment just under the dash and it seems to be coming out of the heater vent. It appears to be engine coolant fluid, aka antifreeze. I don’t understand how it gets there from the radiator. I notice also it only comes out when I have the radiator and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the last few days, and the leak seems to stop. I just don’t understand where the leak could have come from though, I thought the radiator heat exhanger only have freon running inside of it. And why does it seems to be running out of the under the dash heater vent? It spills into the carpets on both the driver side and passenger side, at the place where you put your feet. Any pointers, opinions etc. are appreciated.
Response:
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > hello all, I am wondering if you can help me figure out where this leak > is coming from. > My car, 1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera, 4door sedan, recently start to > leak a greenish > fluid into the passenger compartment just under the dash and it seems to > be coming > out of the heater vent. It appears to be engine coolant fluid, aka > antifreeze. I don’t understand > how it gets there from the radiator. I notice also it only comes out > when I have the radiator > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > last few days, and the leak seems > to stop. > I just don’t understand where the leak could have come from though, I > thought the radiator > heat exhanger only have freon running inside of it. And why does it > seems to be running out > of the under the dash heater vent? It spills into the carpets on both > the driver side and passenger > side, at the place where you put your feet. > Any pointers, opinions etc. are appreciated.
Hot water from the engine circulates through the heater core. That is how you stay warm in the winter. The heater core blew up. Replace it.
Response:
Don’t forget to replace stiff heater hoses and ck for bad motor mounts.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Thanks for that clarification on both parts, especially on the tank-tube detail. > Sorry about the tube confusion, but that’s the "core" manufacturing in me coming out. > Chuckle, > John > Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: > http://www.imcool.com/ > you don’t have to take off anything except the underdash panels to remove > the AC ducts, and the cover over the core (plus a console extension if so > equipped) a 1/4" air ratchet, a 6" extension, and a 7 mm (or 9/32 socket) ‘mirrors > on a stick’ deals to help you find the screws > OE cores have plastic tanks with a very short plastic tube, a longer plastic > tube with any offset needed is ’sonically welded’ to the short > tube…….and this junction is where about 90 % of them leak….vibration > and flexing of the hoses breaks the sonic weld
Response:
Hi, When I bought my 88 olds ciera it had the same problem. Just replace the heater core. That way, it will get rid of any doubt, since you will have replaced everything under that dash that contains antifreeze, and have tightened the connections. It is a part that is less than twenty dollars, 15 at autozone. It is located just above the "hump" in the floor under the dash. I believe there are 4 screws around the black plastic cover. Take those out. Then, under the hood on the firewall just behind the power steering pump, disconnect the two black water hoses. Then, just unbolt the core and take it out to replace it. It takes less than an hour to do. Make sure you drain the cooling system first. Good Luck Rob – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > hello all, I am wondering if you can help me figure out where this leak > is coming from. > My car, 1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera, 4door sedan, recently start to > leak a greenish > fluid into the passenger compartment just under the dash and it seems to > be coming > out of the heater vent. It appears to be engine coolant fluid, aka > antifreeze. I don’t understand > how it gets there from the radiator. I notice also it only comes out > when I have the radiator > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > last few days, and the leak seems > to stop. > I just don’t understand where the leak could have come from though, I > thought the radiator > heat exhanger only have freon running inside of it. And why does it > seems to be running out > of the under the dash heater vent? It spills into the carpets on both > the driver side and passenger > side, at the place where you put your feet. > Any pointers, opinions etc. are appreciated.
Response:
> the core is still under pressure when off. I drove around with > mine bypassed for about a year (through a philly winter!). > Note that you can wear gloves but the defrost is really hard > to live without.
Hey, I had a car like that. In fact, a couple of them. My ‘64 Karmen Ghia had no heat as the air ducts were rusted out. I carried an ice scraper to use as a "defroster". Ed http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
Response:
Your options are: 1. as someone has already said, bypass the heater by disconnecting them from the heater core and using a pipe to re-connect them together. (No heat in the winter, but also, no heat for the defroster during any summer/fall rainshowers when windshields fog up.) 2. have the heater core changed now and forget the problem. Note: turning the heat lever to full cold will not necessarily shut off all hot water to the heater core. Often, those valves still leak quite a bit, enough to give you heat into the cabin when you least want it…on 95F days! Some people do install an aftermarket heater control valve that allows them to full shut off the flow of hot coolant to the heater from inside the cabin. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I think I made a typo. I mean I turned off the AC, and I turned off the fan > that blows AC cool air into the inside of the car. There is actually such a slider switch in > my car, > its like FAN: (low, med, high). My car is 1988.
Response:
That was probably because the VW didn’t have any antifreeze! ;) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> the core is still under pressure when off. I drove around with > mine bypassed for about a year (through a philly winter!). > Note that you can wear gloves but the defrost is really hard > to live without. > Hey, I had a car like that. In fact, a couple of them. My ‘64 Karmen Ghia > had no heat as the air ducts were rusted out. I carried an ice scraper to > use as a "defroster". > Ed > http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
Response:
just replace the damned heater core 1) the heater core and AC condenser share a common drain 2) there is no ’shut-off’ for heater water on this vehicle, it ’shuts off the heat’ by swinging the ‘blend door’ to a position where air does not pass thru the heater core 3) its a 2-hour job at worst 4) be sure to use a core with brass tubes instead of those crappy plastic ones like the factory uses just do it
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Your options are: > 1. as someone has already said, bypass the heater by disconnecting them from the heater > core and using a pipe to re-connect them together. > (No heat in the winter, but also, no heat for the defroster during any summer/fall > rainshowers when windshields fog up.) > 2. have the heater core changed now and forget the problem. > Note: turning the heat lever to full cold will not necessarily shut off all hot water to > the heater core. Often, those valves still leak quite a bit, enough to give you heat into > the cabin when you least want it…on 95F days! Some people do install an aftermarket > heater control valve that allows them to full shut off the flow of hot coolant to the > heater from inside the cabin.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I think I made a typo. I mean I turned off the AC, and I turned off the fan > that blows AC cool air into the inside of the car. There is actually such a slider > switch in > my car, > its like FAN: (low, med, high). My car is 1988.
Response:
it’s more than likely the heater core..my ex 86 bronco did the same exact thing
Response:
3. Are you sure about the 2-hour job? Not if they have to pull the dash and any a/c components. 4. Not to be a wise ass, but the original heaters are actually made with aluminum cores (and tubes). Only the crimped-on tanks are made of plastic. Aftermarket replacements could be copper fins with brass tubes and soldered-on brass tanks. John (a former employee of a copper-brass radiator/heater manufacturer that got "displaced" by aluminum and plastic) Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: http://www.imcool.com/
… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 3) its a 2-hour job at worst > 4) be sure to use a core with brass tubes instead of those crappy plastic > ones like the factory uses
Response:
you don’t have to take off anything except the underdash panels to remove the AC ducts, and the cover over the core (plus a console extension if so equipped) a 1/4" air ratchet, a 6" extension, and a 7 mm (or 9/32 socket) on a stick’ deals to help you find the screws OE cores have plastic tanks with a very short plastic tube, a longer plastic tube with any offset needed is ’sonically welded’ to the short tube…….and this juction is where about 90 % of them leak….vibration and flexing of the hoses breaks the sonic weld
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 3. Are you sure about the 2-hour job? Not if they have to pull the dash and any a/c > components. > 4. Not to be a wise ass, but the original heaters are actually made with aluminum cores > (and tubes). Only the crimped-on tanks are made of plastic. > Aftermarket replacements could be copper fins with brass tubes and soldered-on brass > tanks. > John > (a former employee of a copper-brass radiator/heater manufacturer that got "displaced" by > aluminum and plastic) > Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: > http://www.imcool.com/ > … > 3) its a 2-hour job at worst > 4) be sure to use a core with brass tubes instead of those crappy plastic > ones like the factory uses
Response:
Thanks for that clarification on both parts, especially on the tank-tube detail. Sorry about the tube confusion, but that’s the "core" manufacturing in me coming out. Chuckle, John Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: http://www.imcool.com/
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> you don’t have to take off anything except the underdash panels to remove > the AC ducts, and the cover over the core (plus a console extension if so > equipped) a 1/4" air ratchet, a 6" extension, and a 7 mm (or 9/32 socket) > on a stick’ deals to help you find the screws > OE cores have plastic tanks with a very short plastic tube, a longer plastic > tube with any offset needed is ’sonically welded’ to the short > tube…….and this junction is where about 90 % of them leak….vibration > and flexing of the hoses breaks the sonic weld
Response:
:I’m thinking he meant turning off the *Heater* inside the car. : :And this would make sense, no heater, no leakage.. the vaulve closes and :restricts the water getting to the leak.. the core is still under pressure when off. I drove around with mine bypassed for about a year (through a philly winter!). Note that you can wear gloves but the defrost is really hard to live without.
Response:
> As the others have said, your heater core (inside the dash, along side the a/c evaporator) > has sprung a leak. > Heater cores are no longer practical to repair, just replaced. > It could be expensive because a technician may have to dig deeply into the dash, even > remove it. (Lots of labor hours.) > Curious, how are you able to turn off the radiator and fan?
I think I made a typo. I mean I turned off the AC, and I turned off the fan that blows AC cool air into the inside of the car. There is actually such a slider switch in my car, its like FAN: (low, med, high). My car is 1988. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> John > http://www.imcool.com/articles/antifreeze-coolant/whygoodradsgobad.htm > Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: > http://www.imcool.com/ > …I notice also it only comes out > when I have the radiator > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > last few days, and the leak seems to stop.
Response:
> I’m thinking he meant turning off the *Heater* inside the car.
No I mean I turned off the AC and the fan which blows cool air from the AC unit into the car. No I don’t turn on the heater in the summer. But funny enough, on my car, the switch for turning on the AC and heater is the same one, you just slide it to different location. I wish I have a digital camera, I would take a picture for all to see. AC Max Normal Bi-Level Heater Def ^^^^ This is where the slider switch was placed at Fan Low Med High ^^^^ I had it on high. > And this would make sense, no heater, no leakage.. the vaulve closes and > restricts the water getting to the leak.. > Either : > 1) don’t turn the heater on,
I didn’t, I only turned on the AC. > 2) replace the inside heater core, or > 3) if you wanted to be sneaky – I’ve done this on a couple of my old > beaters is just find where the hoses circulate into the firwall, and put a > splice in between the two ingoing and outgoing hoses so you effectively > bypass the heater core inside the car. This of course will render your > heater useless. It will also stop the leaking. Depending on how old of a > car it is, and what climate you live in, you may not care if the heater
I live in Toronto, Canada. And you don’t want to drive without a heater in late Dec, Jan, Feb, even Mar here. > works or not. I’ve not heard of any negative effects of doing this, > probably better to have the thing disconnected than having that stuff > running into your car – what a terrible smell.
Yeah, it smells like anti-freeze. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> -Brian > As the others have said, your heater core (inside the dash, along side the > a/c evaporator) > has sprung a leak. > Heater cores are no longer practical to repair, just replaced. > It could be expensive because a technician may have to dig deeply into the > dash, even > remove it. (Lots of labor hours.) > Curious, how are you able to turn off the radiator and fan? > John > http://www.imcool.com/articles/antifreeze-coolant/whygoodradsgobad.htm > Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: > http://www.imcool.com/ > > …I notice also it only comes out > > when I have the radiator > > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > > last few days, and the leak seems to stop.
Response:
I’m thinking he meant turning off the *Heater* inside the car. And this would make sense, no heater, no leakage.. the vaulve closes and restricts the water getting to the leak.. Either : 1) don’t turn the heater on, 2) replace the inside heater core, or 3) if you wanted to be sneaky – I’ve done this on a couple of my old beaters is just find where the hoses circulate into the firwall, and put a splice in between the two ingoing and outgoing hoses so you effectively bypass the heater core inside the car. This of course will render your heater useless. It will also stop the leaking. Depending on how old of a car it is, and what climate you live in, you may not care if the heater works or not. I’ve not heard of any negative effects of doing this, probably better to have the thing disconnected than having that stuff running into your car – what a terrible smell. -Brian
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> As the others have said, your heater core (inside the dash, along side the a/c evaporator) > has sprung a leak. > Heater cores are no longer practical to repair, just replaced. > It could be expensive because a technician may have to dig deeply into the dash, even > remove it. (Lots of labor hours.) > Curious, how are you able to turn off the radiator and fan? > John > http://www.imcool.com/articles/antifreeze-coolant/whygoodradsgobad.htm > Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: > http://www.imcool.com/
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> …I notice also it only comes out > when I have the radiator > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > last few days, and the leak seems to stop.
Response:
As the others have said, your heater core (inside the dash, along side the a/c evaporator) has sprung a leak. Heater cores are no longer practical to repair, just replaced. It could be expensive because a technician may have to dig deeply into the dash, even remove it. (Lots of labor hours.) Curious, how are you able to turn off the radiator and fan? John http://www.imcool.com/articles/antifreeze-coolant/whygoodradsgobad.htm Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: http://www.imcool.com/ – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > …I notice also it only comes out > when I have the radiator > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > last few days, and the leak seems to stop.
Response:
hello all, I am wondering if you can help me figure out where this leak is coming from. My car, 1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera, 4door sedan, recently start to leak a greenish fluid into the passenger compartment just under the dash and it seems to be coming out of the heater vent. It appears to be engine coolant fluid, aka antifreeze. I don’t understand how it gets there from the radiator. I notice also it only comes out when I have the radiator and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the last few days, and the leak seems to stop. I just don’t understand where the leak could have come from though, I thought the radiator heat exhanger only have freon running inside of it. And why does it seems to be running out of the under the dash heater vent? It spills into the carpets on both the driver side and passenger side, at the place where you put your feet. Any pointers, opinions etc. are appreciated.
Response:
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > hello all, I am wondering if you can help me figure out where this leak > is coming from. > My car, 1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera, 4door sedan, recently start to > leak a greenish > fluid into the passenger compartment just under the dash and it seems to > be coming > out of the heater vent. It appears to be engine coolant fluid, aka > antifreeze. I don’t understand > how it gets there from the radiator. I notice also it only comes out > when I have the radiator > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > last few days, and the leak seems > to stop. > I just don’t understand where the leak could have come from though, I > thought the radiator > heat exhanger only have freon running inside of it. And why does it > seems to be running out > of the under the dash heater vent? It spills into the carpets on both > the driver side and passenger > side, at the place where you put your feet. > Any pointers, opinions etc. are appreciated.
Hot water from the engine circulates through the heater core. That is how you stay warm in the winter. The heater core blew up. Replace it.
Response:
Don’t forget to replace stiff heater hoses and ck for bad motor mounts.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Thanks for that clarification on both parts, especially on the tank-tube detail. > Sorry about the tube confusion, but that’s the "core" manufacturing in me coming out. > Chuckle, > John > Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: > http://www.imcool.com/ > you don’t have to take off anything except the underdash panels to remove > the AC ducts, and the cover over the core (plus a console extension if so > equipped) a 1/4" air ratchet, a 6" extension, and a 7 mm (or 9/32 socket) ‘mirrors > on a stick’ deals to help you find the screws > OE cores have plastic tanks with a very short plastic tube, a longer plastic > tube with any offset needed is ’sonically welded’ to the short > tube…….and this junction is where about 90 % of them leak….vibration > and flexing of the hoses breaks the sonic weld
Response:
Hi, When I bought my 88 olds ciera it had the same problem. Just replace the heater core. That way, it will get rid of any doubt, since you will have replaced everything under that dash that contains antifreeze, and have tightened the connections. It is a part that is less than twenty dollars, 15 at autozone. It is located just above the "hump" in the floor under the dash. I believe there are 4 screws around the black plastic cover. Take those out. Then, under the hood on the firewall just behind the power steering pump, disconnect the two black water hoses. Then, just unbolt the core and take it out to replace it. It takes less than an hour to do. Make sure you drain the cooling system first. Good Luck Rob – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > hello all, I am wondering if you can help me figure out where this leak > is coming from. > My car, 1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera, 4door sedan, recently start to > leak a greenish > fluid into the passenger compartment just under the dash and it seems to > be coming > out of the heater vent. It appears to be engine coolant fluid, aka > antifreeze. I don’t understand > how it gets there from the radiator. I notice also it only comes out > when I have the radiator > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > last few days, and the leak seems > to stop. > I just don’t understand where the leak could have come from though, I > thought the radiator > heat exhanger only have freon running inside of it. And why does it > seems to be running out > of the under the dash heater vent? It spills into the carpets on both > the driver side and passenger > side, at the place where you put your feet. > Any pointers, opinions etc. are appreciated.
Response:
> the core is still under pressure when off. I drove around with > mine bypassed for about a year (through a philly winter!). > Note that you can wear gloves but the defrost is really hard > to live without.
Hey, I had a car like that. In fact, a couple of them. My ‘64 Karmen Ghia had no heat as the air ducts were rusted out. I carried an ice scraper to use as a "defroster". Ed http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
Response:
Your options are: 1. as someone has already said, bypass the heater by disconnecting them from the heater core and using a pipe to re-connect them together. (No heat in the winter, but also, no heat for the defroster during any summer/fall rainshowers when windshields fog up.) 2. have the heater core changed now and forget the problem. Note: turning the heat lever to full cold will not necessarily shut off all hot water to the heater core. Often, those valves still leak quite a bit, enough to give you heat into the cabin when you least want it…on 95F days! Some people do install an aftermarket heater control valve that allows them to full shut off the flow of hot coolant to the heater from inside the cabin. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I think I made a typo. I mean I turned off the AC, and I turned off the fan > that blows AC cool air into the inside of the car. There is actually such a slider switch in > my car, > its like FAN: (low, med, high). My car is 1988.
Response:
That was probably because the VW didn’t have any antifreeze! ;) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> the core is still under pressure when off. I drove around with > mine bypassed for about a year (through a philly winter!). > Note that you can wear gloves but the defrost is really hard > to live without. > Hey, I had a car like that. In fact, a couple of them. My ‘64 Karmen Ghia > had no heat as the air ducts were rusted out. I carried an ice scraper to > use as a "defroster". > Ed > http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
Response:
just replace the damned heater core 1) the heater core and AC condenser share a common drain 2) there is no ’shut-off’ for heater water on this vehicle, it ’shuts off the heat’ by swinging the ‘blend door’ to a position where air does not pass thru the heater core 3) its a 2-hour job at worst 4) be sure to use a core with brass tubes instead of those crappy plastic ones like the factory uses just do it
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Your options are: > 1. as someone has already said, bypass the heater by disconnecting them from the heater > core and using a pipe to re-connect them together. > (No heat in the winter, but also, no heat for the defroster during any summer/fall > rainshowers when windshields fog up.) > 2. have the heater core changed now and forget the problem. > Note: turning the heat lever to full cold will not necessarily shut off all hot water to > the heater core. Often, those valves still leak quite a bit, enough to give you heat into > the cabin when you least want it…on 95F days! Some people do install an aftermarket > heater control valve that allows them to full shut off the flow of hot coolant to the > heater from inside the cabin.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I think I made a typo. I mean I turned off the AC, and I turned off the fan > that blows AC cool air into the inside of the car. There is actually such a slider > switch in > my car, > its like FAN: (low, med, high). My car is 1988.
Response:
it’s more than likely the heater core..my ex 86 bronco did the same exact thing
Response:
3. Are you sure about the 2-hour job? Not if they have to pull the dash and any a/c components. 4. Not to be a wise ass, but the original heaters are actually made with aluminum cores (and tubes). Only the crimped-on tanks are made of plastic. Aftermarket replacements could be copper fins with brass tubes and soldered-on brass tanks. John (a former employee of a copper-brass radiator/heater manufacturer that got "displaced" by aluminum and plastic) Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: http://www.imcool.com/
… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 3) its a 2-hour job at worst > 4) be sure to use a core with brass tubes instead of those crappy plastic > ones like the factory uses
Response:
you don’t have to take off anything except the underdash panels to remove the AC ducts, and the cover over the core (plus a console extension if so equipped) a 1/4" air ratchet, a 6" extension, and a 7 mm (or 9/32 socket) on a stick’ deals to help you find the screws OE cores have plastic tanks with a very short plastic tube, a longer plastic tube with any offset needed is ’sonically welded’ to the short tube…….and this juction is where about 90 % of them leak….vibration and flexing of the hoses breaks the sonic weld
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 3. Are you sure about the 2-hour job? Not if they have to pull the dash and any a/c > components. > 4. Not to be a wise ass, but the original heaters are actually made with aluminum cores > (and tubes). Only the crimped-on tanks are made of plastic. > Aftermarket replacements could be copper fins with brass tubes and soldered-on brass > tanks. > John > (a former employee of a copper-brass radiator/heater manufacturer that got "displaced" by > aluminum and plastic) > Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: > http://www.imcool.com/ > … > 3) its a 2-hour job at worst > 4) be sure to use a core with brass tubes instead of those crappy plastic > ones like the factory uses
Response:
Thanks for that clarification on both parts, especially on the tank-tube detail. Sorry about the tube confusion, but that’s the "core" manufacturing in me coming out. Chuckle, John Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: http://www.imcool.com/
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> you don’t have to take off anything except the underdash panels to remove > the AC ducts, and the cover over the core (plus a console extension if so > equipped) a 1/4" air ratchet, a 6" extension, and a 7 mm (or 9/32 socket) > on a stick’ deals to help you find the screws > OE cores have plastic tanks with a very short plastic tube, a longer plastic > tube with any offset needed is ’sonically welded’ to the short > tube…….and this junction is where about 90 % of them leak….vibration > and flexing of the hoses breaks the sonic weld
Response:
:I’m thinking he meant turning off the *Heater* inside the car. : :And this would make sense, no heater, no leakage.. the vaulve closes and :restricts the water getting to the leak.. the core is still under pressure when off. I drove around with mine bypassed for about a year (through a philly winter!). Note that you can wear gloves but the defrost is really hard to live without.
Response:
> As the others have said, your heater core (inside the dash, along side the a/c evaporator) > has sprung a leak. > Heater cores are no longer practical to repair, just replaced. > It could be expensive because a technician may have to dig deeply into the dash, even > remove it. (Lots of labor hours.) > Curious, how are you able to turn off the radiator and fan?
I think I made a typo. I mean I turned off the AC, and I turned off the fan that blows AC cool air into the inside of the car. There is actually such a slider switch in my car, its like FAN: (low, med, high). My car is 1988. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> John > http://www.imcool.com/articles/antifreeze-coolant/whygoodradsgobad.htm > Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: > http://www.imcool.com/ > …I notice also it only comes out > when I have the radiator > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > last few days, and the leak seems to stop.
Response:
> I’m thinking he meant turning off the *Heater* inside the car.
No I mean I turned off the AC and the fan which blows cool air from the AC unit into the car. No I don’t turn on the heater in the summer. But funny enough, on my car, the switch for turning on the AC and heater is the same one, you just slide it to different location. I wish I have a digital camera, I would take a picture for all to see. AC Max Normal Bi-Level Heater Def ^^^^ This is where the slider switch was placed at Fan Low Med High ^^^^ I had it on high. > And this would make sense, no heater, no leakage.. the vaulve closes and > restricts the water getting to the leak.. > Either : > 1) don’t turn the heater on,
I didn’t, I only turned on the AC. > 2) replace the inside heater core, or > 3) if you wanted to be sneaky – I’ve done this on a couple of my old > beaters is just find where the hoses circulate into the firwall, and put a > splice in between the two ingoing and outgoing hoses so you effectively > bypass the heater core inside the car. This of course will render your > heater useless. It will also stop the leaking. Depending on how old of a > car it is, and what climate you live in, you may not care if the heater
I live in Toronto, Canada. And you don’t want to drive without a heater in late Dec, Jan, Feb, even Mar here. > works or not. I’ve not heard of any negative effects of doing this, > probably better to have the thing disconnected than having that stuff > running into your car – what a terrible smell.
Yeah, it smells like anti-freeze. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> -Brian > As the others have said, your heater core (inside the dash, along side the > a/c evaporator) > has sprung a leak. > Heater cores are no longer practical to repair, just replaced. > It could be expensive because a technician may have to dig deeply into the > dash, even > remove it. (Lots of labor hours.) > Curious, how are you able to turn off the radiator and fan? > John > http://www.imcool.com/articles/antifreeze-coolant/whygoodradsgobad.htm > Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: > http://www.imcool.com/ > > …I notice also it only comes out > > when I have the radiator > > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > > last few days, and the leak seems to stop.
Response:
I’m thinking he meant turning off the *Heater* inside the car. And this would make sense, no heater, no leakage.. the vaulve closes and restricts the water getting to the leak.. Either : 1) don’t turn the heater on, 2) replace the inside heater core, or 3) if you wanted to be sneaky – I’ve done this on a couple of my old beaters is just find where the hoses circulate into the firwall, and put a splice in between the two ingoing and outgoing hoses so you effectively bypass the heater core inside the car. This of course will render your heater useless. It will also stop the leaking. Depending on how old of a car it is, and what climate you live in, you may not care if the heater works or not. I’ve not heard of any negative effects of doing this, probably better to have the thing disconnected than having that stuff running into your car – what a terrible smell. -Brian
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> As the others have said, your heater core (inside the dash, along side the a/c evaporator) > has sprung a leak. > Heater cores are no longer practical to repair, just replaced. > It could be expensive because a technician may have to dig deeply into the dash, even > remove it. (Lots of labor hours.) > Curious, how are you able to turn off the radiator and fan? > John > http://www.imcool.com/articles/antifreeze-coolant/whygoodradsgobad.htm > Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: > http://www.imcool.com/
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> …I notice also it only comes out > when I have the radiator > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > last few days, and the leak seems to stop.
Response:
As the others have said, your heater core (inside the dash, along side the a/c evaporator) has sprung a leak. Heater cores are no longer practical to repair, just replaced. It could be expensive because a technician may have to dig deeply into the dash, even remove it. (Lots of labor hours.) Curious, how are you able to turn off the radiator and fan? John http://www.imcool.com/articles/antifreeze-coolant/whygoodradsgobad.htm Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: http://www.imcool.com/ – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > …I notice also it only comes out > when I have the radiator > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > last few days, and the leak seems to stop.
Response:
hello all, I am wondering if you can help me figure out where this leak is coming from. My car, 1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera, 4door sedan, recently start to leak a greenish fluid into the passenger compartment just under the dash and it seems to be coming out of the heater vent. It appears to be engine coolant fluid, aka antifreeze. I don’t understand how it gets there from the radiator. I notice also it only comes out when I have the radiator and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the last few days, and the leak seems to stop. I just don’t understand where the leak could have come from though, I thought the radiator heat exhanger only have freon running inside of it. And why does it seems to be running out of the under the dash heater vent? It spills into the carpets on both the driver side and passenger side, at the place where you put your feet. Any pointers, opinions etc. are appreciated.
Response:
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > hello all, I am wondering if you can help me figure out where this leak > is coming from. > My car, 1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera, 4door sedan, recently start to > leak a greenish > fluid into the passenger compartment just under the dash and it seems to > be coming > out of the heater vent. It appears to be engine coolant fluid, aka > antifreeze. I don’t understand > how it gets there from the radiator. I notice also it only comes out > when I have the radiator > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > last few days, and the leak seems > to stop. > I just don’t understand where the leak could have come from though, I > thought the radiator > heat exhanger only have freon running inside of it. And why does it > seems to be running out > of the under the dash heater vent? It spills into the carpets on both > the driver side and passenger > side, at the place where you put your feet. > Any pointers, opinions etc. are appreciated.
Hot water from the engine circulates through the heater core. That is how you stay warm in the winter. The heater core blew up. Replace it.
Response:
Don’t forget to replace stiff heater hoses and ck for bad motor mounts.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Thanks for that clarification on both parts, especially on the tank-tube detail. > Sorry about the tube confusion, but that’s the "core" manufacturing in me coming out. > Chuckle, > John > Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: > http://www.imcool.com/ > you don’t have to take off anything except the underdash panels to remove > the AC ducts, and the cover over the core (plus a console extension if so > equipped) a 1/4" air ratchet, a 6" extension, and a 7 mm (or 9/32 socket) ‘mirrors > on a stick’ deals to help you find the screws > OE cores have plastic tanks with a very short plastic tube, a longer plastic > tube with any offset needed is ’sonically welded’ to the short > tube…….and this junction is where about 90 % of them leak….vibration > and flexing of the hoses breaks the sonic weld
Response:
Hi, When I bought my 88 olds ciera it had the same problem. Just replace the heater core. That way, it will get rid of any doubt, since you will have replaced everything under that dash that contains antifreeze, and have tightened the connections. It is a part that is less than twenty dollars, 15 at autozone. It is located just above the "hump" in the floor under the dash. I believe there are 4 screws around the black plastic cover. Take those out. Then, under the hood on the firewall just behind the power steering pump, disconnect the two black water hoses. Then, just unbolt the core and take it out to replace it. It takes less than an hour to do. Make sure you drain the cooling system first. Good Luck Rob – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > hello all, I am wondering if you can help me figure out where this leak > is coming from. > My car, 1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera, 4door sedan, recently start to > leak a greenish > fluid into the passenger compartment just under the dash and it seems to > be coming > out of the heater vent. It appears to be engine coolant fluid, aka > antifreeze. I don’t understand > how it gets there from the radiator. I notice also it only comes out > when I have the radiator > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > last few days, and the leak seems > to stop. > I just don’t understand where the leak could have come from though, I > thought the radiator > heat exhanger only have freon running inside of it. And why does it > seems to be running out > of the under the dash heater vent? It spills into the carpets on both > the driver side and passenger > side, at the place where you put your feet. > Any pointers, opinions etc. are appreciated.
Response:
> the core is still under pressure when off. I drove around with > mine bypassed for about a year (through a philly winter!). > Note that you can wear gloves but the defrost is really hard > to live without.
Hey, I had a car like that. In fact, a couple of them. My ‘64 Karmen Ghia had no heat as the air ducts were rusted out. I carried an ice scraper to use as a "defroster". Ed http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
Response:
Your options are: 1. as someone has already said, bypass the heater by disconnecting them from the heater core and using a pipe to re-connect them together. (No heat in the winter, but also, no heat for the defroster during any summer/fall rainshowers when windshields fog up.) 2. have the heater core changed now and forget the problem. Note: turning the heat lever to full cold will not necessarily shut off all hot water to the heater core. Often, those valves still leak quite a bit, enough to give you heat into the cabin when you least want it…on 95F days! Some people do install an aftermarket heater control valve that allows them to full shut off the flow of hot coolant to the heater from inside the cabin. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I think I made a typo. I mean I turned off the AC, and I turned off the fan > that blows AC cool air into the inside of the car. There is actually such a slider switch in > my car, > its like FAN: (low, med, high). My car is 1988.
Response:
That was probably because the VW didn’t have any antifreeze! ;) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> the core is still under pressure when off. I drove around with > mine bypassed for about a year (through a philly winter!). > Note that you can wear gloves but the defrost is really hard > to live without. > Hey, I had a car like that. In fact, a couple of them. My ‘64 Karmen Ghia > had no heat as the air ducts were rusted out. I carried an ice scraper to > use as a "defroster". > Ed > http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
Response:
just replace the damned heater core 1) the heater core and AC condenser share a common drain 2) there is no ’shut-off’ for heater water on this vehicle, it ’shuts off the heat’ by swinging the ‘blend door’ to a position where air does not pass thru the heater core 3) its a 2-hour job at worst 4) be sure to use a core with brass tubes instead of those crappy plastic ones like the factory uses just do it
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Your options are: > 1. as someone has already said, bypass the heater by disconnecting them from the heater > core and using a pipe to re-connect them together. > (No heat in the winter, but also, no heat for the defroster during any summer/fall > rainshowers when windshields fog up.) > 2. have the heater core changed now and forget the problem. > Note: turning the heat lever to full cold will not necessarily shut off all hot water to > the heater core. Often, those valves still leak quite a bit, enough to give you heat into > the cabin when you least want it…on 95F days! Some people do install an aftermarket > heater control valve that allows them to full shut off the flow of hot coolant to the > heater from inside the cabin.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I think I made a typo. I mean I turned off the AC, and I turned off the fan > that blows AC cool air into the inside of the car. There is actually such a slider > switch in > my car, > its like FAN: (low, med, high). My car is 1988.
Response:
it’s more than likely the heater core..my ex 86 bronco did the same exact thing
Response:
3. Are you sure about the 2-hour job? Not if they have to pull the dash and any a/c components. 4. Not to be a wise ass, but the original heaters are actually made with aluminum cores (and tubes). Only the crimped-on tanks are made of plastic. Aftermarket replacements could be copper fins with brass tubes and soldered-on brass tanks. John (a former employee of a copper-brass radiator/heater manufacturer that got "displaced" by aluminum and plastic) Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: http://www.imcool.com/
… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 3) its a 2-hour job at worst > 4) be sure to use a core with brass tubes instead of those crappy plastic > ones like the factory uses
Response:
you don’t have to take off anything except the underdash panels to remove the AC ducts, and the cover over the core (plus a console extension if so equipped) a 1/4" air ratchet, a 6" extension, and a 7 mm (or 9/32 socket) on a stick’ deals to help you find the screws OE cores have plastic tanks with a very short plastic tube, a longer plastic tube with any offset needed is ’sonically welded’ to the short tube…….and this juction is where about 90 % of them leak….vibration and flexing of the hoses breaks the sonic weld
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 3. Are you sure about the 2-hour job? Not if they have to pull the dash and any a/c > components. > 4. Not to be a wise ass, but the original heaters are actually made with aluminum cores > (and tubes). Only the crimped-on tanks are made of plastic. > Aftermarket replacements could be copper fins with brass tubes and soldered-on brass > tanks. > John > (a former employee of a copper-brass radiator/heater manufacturer that got "displaced" by > aluminum and plastic) > Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: > http://www.imcool.com/ > … > 3) its a 2-hour job at worst > 4) be sure to use a core with brass tubes instead of those crappy plastic > ones like the factory uses
Response:
Thanks for that clarification on both parts, especially on the tank-tube detail. Sorry about the tube confusion, but that’s the "core" manufacturing in me coming out. Chuckle, John Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: http://www.imcool.com/
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> you don’t have to take off anything except the underdash panels to remove > the AC ducts, and the cover over the core (plus a console extension if so > equipped) a 1/4" air ratchet, a 6" extension, and a 7 mm (or 9/32 socket) > on a stick’ deals to help you find the screws > OE cores have plastic tanks with a very short plastic tube, a longer plastic > tube with any offset needed is ’sonically welded’ to the short > tube…….and this junction is where about 90 % of them leak….vibration > and flexing of the hoses breaks the sonic weld
Response:
:I’m thinking he meant turning off the *Heater* inside the car. : :And this would make sense, no heater, no leakage.. the vaulve closes and :restricts the water getting to the leak.. the core is still under pressure when off. I drove around with mine bypassed for about a year (through a philly winter!). Note that you can wear gloves but the defrost is really hard to live without.
Response:
> As the others have said, your heater core (inside the dash, along side the a/c evaporator) > has sprung a leak. > Heater cores are no longer practical to repair, just replaced. > It could be expensive because a technician may have to dig deeply into the dash, even > remove it. (Lots of labor hours.) > Curious, how are you able to turn off the radiator and fan?
I think I made a typo. I mean I turned off the AC, and I turned off the fan that blows AC cool air into the inside of the car. There is actually such a slider switch in my car, its like FAN: (low, med, high). My car is 1988. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> John > http://www.imcool.com/articles/antifreeze-coolant/whygoodradsgobad.htm > Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: > http://www.imcool.com/ > …I notice also it only comes out > when I have the radiator > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > last few days, and the leak seems to stop.
Response:
> I’m thinking he meant turning off the *Heater* inside the car.
No I mean I turned off the AC and the fan which blows cool air from the AC unit into the car. No I don’t turn on the heater in the summer. But funny enough, on my car, the switch for turning on the AC and heater is the same one, you just slide it to different location. I wish I have a digital camera, I would take a picture for all to see. AC Max Normal Bi-Level Heater Def ^^^^ This is where the slider switch was placed at Fan Low Med High ^^^^ I had it on high. > And this would make sense, no heater, no leakage.. the vaulve closes and > restricts the water getting to the leak.. > Either : > 1) don’t turn the heater on,
I didn’t, I only turned on the AC. > 2) replace the inside heater core, or > 3) if you wanted to be sneaky – I’ve done this on a couple of my old > beaters is just find where the hoses circulate into the firwall, and put a > splice in between the two ingoing and outgoing hoses so you effectively > bypass the heater core inside the car. This of course will render your > heater useless. It will also stop the leaking. Depending on how old of a > car it is, and what climate you live in, you may not care if the heater
I live in Toronto, Canada. And you don’t want to drive without a heater in late Dec, Jan, Feb, even Mar here. > works or not. I’ve not heard of any negative effects of doing this, > probably better to have the thing disconnected than having that stuff > running into your car – what a terrible smell.
Yeah, it smells like anti-freeze. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> -Brian > As the others have said, your heater core (inside the dash, along side the > a/c evaporator) > has sprung a leak. > Heater cores are no longer practical to repair, just replaced. > It could be expensive because a technician may have to dig deeply into the > dash, even > remove it. (Lots of labor hours.) > Curious, how are you able to turn off the radiator and fan? > John > http://www.imcool.com/articles/antifreeze-coolant/whygoodradsgobad.htm > Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: > http://www.imcool.com/ > > …I notice also it only comes out > > when I have the radiator > > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > > last few days, and the leak seems to stop.
Response:
I’m thinking he meant turning off the *Heater* inside the car. And this would make sense, no heater, no leakage.. the vaulve closes and restricts the water getting to the leak.. Either : 1) don’t turn the heater on, 2) replace the inside heater core, or 3) if you wanted to be sneaky – I’ve done this on a couple of my old beaters is just find where the hoses circulate into the firwall, and put a splice in between the two ingoing and outgoing hoses so you effectively bypass the heater core inside the car. This of course will render your heater useless. It will also stop the leaking. Depending on how old of a car it is, and what climate you live in, you may not care if the heater works or not. I’ve not heard of any negative effects of doing this, probably better to have the thing disconnected than having that stuff running into your car – what a terrible smell. -Brian
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> As the others have said, your heater core (inside the dash, along side the a/c evaporator) > has sprung a leak. > Heater cores are no longer practical to repair, just replaced. > It could be expensive because a technician may have to dig deeply into the dash, even > remove it. (Lots of labor hours.) > Curious, how are you able to turn off the radiator and fan? > John > http://www.imcool.com/articles/antifreeze-coolant/whygoodradsgobad.htm > Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: > http://www.imcool.com/
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> …I notice also it only comes out > when I have the radiator > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > last few days, and the leak seems to stop.
Response:
As the others have said, your heater core (inside the dash, along side the a/c evaporator) has sprung a leak. Heater cores are no longer practical to repair, just replaced. It could be expensive because a technician may have to dig deeply into the dash, even remove it. (Lots of labor hours.) Curious, how are you able to turn off the radiator and fan? John http://www.imcool.com/articles/antifreeze-coolant/whygoodradsgobad.htm Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: http://www.imcool.com/ – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > …I notice also it only comes out > when I have the radiator > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > last few days, and the leak seems to stop.
Response:
hello all, I am wondering if you can help me figure out where this leak is coming from. My car, 1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera, 4door sedan, recently start to leak a greenish fluid into the passenger compartment just under the dash and it seems to be coming out of the heater vent. It appears to be engine coolant fluid, aka antifreeze. I don’t understand how it gets there from the radiator. I notice also it only comes out when I have the radiator and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the last few days, and the leak seems to stop. I just don’t understand where the leak could have come from though, I thought the radiator heat exhanger only have freon running inside of it. And why does it seems to be running out of the under the dash heater vent? It spills into the carpets on both the driver side and passenger side, at the place where you put your feet. Any pointers, opinions etc. are appreciated.
Response:
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > hello all, I am wondering if you can help me figure out where this leak > is coming from. > My car, 1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera, 4door sedan, recently start to > leak a greenish > fluid into the passenger compartment just under the dash and it seems to > be coming > out of the heater vent. It appears to be engine coolant fluid, aka > antifreeze. I don’t understand > how it gets there from the radiator. I notice also it only comes out > when I have the radiator > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > last few days, and the leak seems > to stop. > I just don’t understand where the leak could have come from though, I > thought the radiator > heat exhanger only have freon running inside of it. And why does it > seems to be running out > of the under the dash heater vent? It spills into the carpets on both > the driver side and passenger > side, at the place where you put your feet. > Any pointers, opinions etc. are appreciated.
Hot water from the engine circulates through the heater core. That is how you stay warm in the winter. The heater core blew up. Replace it.
Response:
Don’t forget to replace stiff heater hoses and ck for bad motor mounts.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Thanks for that clarification on both parts, especially on the tank-tube detail. > Sorry about the tube confusion, but that’s the "core" manufacturing in me coming out. > Chuckle, > John > Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: > http://www.imcool.com/ > you don’t have to take off anything except the underdash panels to remove > the AC ducts, and the cover over the core (plus a console extension if so > equipped) a 1/4" air ratchet, a 6" extension, and a 7 mm (or 9/32 socket) ‘mirrors > on a stick’ deals to help you find the screws > OE cores have plastic tanks with a very short plastic tube, a longer plastic > tube with any offset needed is ’sonically welded’ to the short > tube…….and this junction is where about 90 % of them leak….vibration > and flexing of the hoses breaks the sonic weld
Response:
Hi, When I bought my 88 olds ciera it had the same problem. Just replace the heater core. That way, it will get rid of any doubt, since you will have replaced everything under that dash that contains antifreeze, and have tightened the connections. It is a part that is less than twenty dollars, 15 at autozone. It is located just above the "hump" in the floor under the dash. I believe there are 4 screws around the black plastic cover. Take those out. Then, under the hood on the firewall just behind the power steering pump, disconnect the two black water hoses. Then, just unbolt the core and take it out to replace it. It takes less than an hour to do. Make sure you drain the cooling system first. Good Luck Rob – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > hello all, I am wondering if you can help me figure out where this leak > is coming from. > My car, 1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera, 4door sedan, recently start to > leak a greenish > fluid into the passenger compartment just under the dash and it seems to > be coming > out of the heater vent. It appears to be engine coolant fluid, aka > antifreeze. I don’t understand > how it gets there from the radiator. I notice also it only comes out > when I have the radiator > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > last few days, and the leak seems > to stop. > I just don’t understand where the leak could have come from though, I > thought the radiator > heat exhanger only have freon running inside of it. And why does it > seems to be running out > of the under the dash heater vent? It spills into the carpets on both > the driver side and passenger > side, at the place where you put your feet. > Any pointers, opinions etc. are appreciated.
Response:
> the core is still under pressure when off. I drove around with > mine bypassed for about a year (through a philly winter!). > Note that you can wear gloves but the defrost is really hard > to live without.
Hey, I had a car like that. In fact, a couple of them. My ‘64 Karmen Ghia had no heat as the air ducts were rusted out. I carried an ice scraper to use as a "defroster". Ed http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
Response:
Your options are: 1. as someone has already said, bypass the heater by disconnecting them from the heater core and using a pipe to re-connect them together. (No heat in the winter, but also, no heat for the defroster during any summer/fall rainshowers when windshields fog up.) 2. have the heater core changed now and forget the problem. Note: turning the heat lever to full cold will not necessarily shut off all hot water to the heater core. Often, those valves still leak quite a bit, enough to give you heat into the cabin when you least want it…on 95F days! Some people do install an aftermarket heater control valve that allows them to full shut off the flow of hot coolant to the heater from inside the cabin. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I think I made a typo. I mean I turned off the AC, and I turned off the fan > that blows AC cool air into the inside of the car. There is actually such a slider switch in > my car, > its like FAN: (low, med, high). My car is 1988.
Response:
That was probably because the VW didn’t have any antifreeze! ;) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> the core is still under pressure when off. I drove around with > mine bypassed for about a year (through a philly winter!). > Note that you can wear gloves but the defrost is really hard > to live without. > Hey, I had a car like that. In fact, a couple of them. My ‘64 Karmen Ghia > had no heat as the air ducts were rusted out. I carried an ice scraper to > use as a "defroster". > Ed > http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
Response:
just replace the damned heater core 1) the heater core and AC condenser share a common drain 2) there is no ’shut-off’ for heater water on this vehicle, it ’shuts off the heat’ by swinging the ‘blend door’ to a position where air does not pass thru the heater core 3) its a 2-hour job at worst 4) be sure to use a core with brass tubes instead of those crappy plastic ones like the factory uses just do it
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Your options are: > 1. as someone has already said, bypass the heater by disconnecting them from the heater > core and using a pipe to re-connect them together. > (No heat in the winter, but also, no heat for the defroster during any summer/fall > rainshowers when windshields fog up.) > 2. have the heater core changed now and forget the problem. > Note: turning the heat lever to full cold will not necessarily shut off all hot water to > the heater core. Often, those valves still leak quite a bit, enough to give you heat into > the cabin when you least want it…on 95F days! Some people do install an aftermarket > heater control valve that allows them to full shut off the flow of hot coolant to the > heater from inside the cabin.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I think I made a typo. I mean I turned off the AC, and I turned off the fan > that blows AC cool air into the inside of the car. There is actually such a slider > switch in > my car, > its like FAN: (low, med, high). My car is 1988.
Response:
it’s more than likely the heater core..my ex 86 bronco did the same exact thing
Response:
3. Are you sure about the 2-hour job? Not if they have to pull the dash and any a/c components. 4. Not to be a wise ass, but the original heaters are actually made with aluminum cores (and tubes). Only the crimped-on tanks are made of plastic. Aftermarket replacements could be copper fins with brass tubes and soldered-on brass tanks. John (a former employee of a copper-brass radiator/heater manufacturer that got "displaced" by aluminum and plastic) Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: http://www.imcool.com/
… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 3) its a 2-hour job at worst > 4) be sure to use a core with brass tubes instead of those crappy plastic > ones like the factory uses
Response:
you don’t have to take off anything except the underdash panels to remove the AC ducts, and the cover over the core (plus a console extension if so equipped) a 1/4" air ratchet, a 6" extension, and a 7 mm (or 9/32 socket) on a stick’ deals to help you find the screws OE cores have plastic tanks with a very short plastic tube, a longer plastic tube with any offset needed is ’sonically welded’ to the short tube…….and this juction is where about 90 % of them leak….vibration and flexing of the hoses breaks the sonic weld
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 3. Are you sure about the 2-hour job? Not if they have to pull the dash and any a/c > components. > 4. Not to be a wise ass, but the original heaters are actually made with aluminum cores > (and tubes). Only the crimped-on tanks are made of plastic. > Aftermarket replacements could be copper fins with brass tubes and soldered-on brass > tanks. > John > (a former employee of a copper-brass radiator/heater manufacturer that got "displaced" by > aluminum and plastic) > Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: > http://www.imcool.com/ > … > 3) its a 2-hour job at worst > 4) be sure to use a core with brass tubes instead of those crappy plastic > ones like the factory uses
Response:
Thanks for that clarification on both parts, especially on the tank-tube detail. Sorry about the tube confusion, but that’s the "core" manufacturing in me coming out. Chuckle, John Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: http://www.imcool.com/
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> you don’t have to take off anything except the underdash panels to remove > the AC ducts, and the cover over the core (plus a console extension if so > equipped) a 1/4" air ratchet, a 6" extension, and a 7 mm (or 9/32 socket) > on a stick’ deals to help you find the screws > OE cores have plastic tanks with a very short plastic tube, a longer plastic > tube with any offset needed is ’sonically welded’ to the short > tube…….and this junction is where about 90 % of them leak….vibration > and flexing of the hoses breaks the sonic weld
Response:
:I’m thinking he meant turning off the *Heater* inside the car. : :And this would make sense, no heater, no leakage.. the vaulve closes and :restricts the water getting to the leak.. the core is still under pressure when off. I drove around with mine bypassed for about a year (through a philly winter!). Note that you can wear gloves but the defrost is really hard to live without.
Response:
> As the others have said, your heater core (inside the dash, along side the a/c evaporator) > has sprung a leak. > Heater cores are no longer practical to repair, just replaced. > It could be expensive because a technician may have to dig deeply into the dash, even > remove it. (Lots of labor hours.) > Curious, how are you able to turn off the radiator and fan?
I think I made a typo. I mean I turned off the AC, and I turned off the fan that blows AC cool air into the inside of the car. There is actually such a slider switch in my car, its like FAN: (low, med, high). My car is 1988. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> John > http://www.imcool.com/articles/antifreeze-coolant/whygoodradsgobad.htm > Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: > http://www.imcool.com/ > …I notice also it only comes out > when I have the radiator > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > last few days, and the leak seems to stop.
Response:
> I’m thinking he meant turning off the *Heater* inside the car.
No I mean I turned off the AC and the fan which blows cool air from the AC unit into the car. No I don’t turn on the heater in the summer. But funny enough, on my car, the switch for turning on the AC and heater is the same one, you just slide it to different location. I wish I have a digital camera, I would take a picture for all to see. AC Max Normal Bi-Level Heater Def ^^^^ This is where the slider switch was placed at Fan Low Med High ^^^^ I had it on high. > And this would make sense, no heater, no leakage.. the vaulve closes and > restricts the water getting to the leak.. > Either : > 1) don’t turn the heater on,
I didn’t, I only turned on the AC. > 2) replace the inside heater core, or > 3) if you wanted to be sneaky – I’ve done this on a couple of my old > beaters is just find where the hoses circulate into the firwall, and put a > splice in between the two ingoing and outgoing hoses so you effectively > bypass the heater core inside the car. This of course will render your > heater useless. It will also stop the leaking. Depending on how old of a > car it is, and what climate you live in, you may not care if the heater
I live in Toronto, Canada. And you don’t want to drive without a heater in late Dec, Jan, Feb, even Mar here. > works or not. I’ve not heard of any negative effects of doing this, > probably better to have the thing disconnected than having that stuff > running into your car – what a terrible smell.
Yeah, it smells like anti-freeze. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> -Brian > As the others have said, your heater core (inside the dash, along side the > a/c evaporator) > has sprung a leak. > Heater cores are no longer practical to repair, just replaced. > It could be expensive because a technician may have to dig deeply into the > dash, even > remove it. (Lots of labor hours.) > Curious, how are you able to turn off the radiator and fan? > John > http://www.imcool.com/articles/antifreeze-coolant/whygoodradsgobad.htm > Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: > http://www.imcool.com/ > > …I notice also it only comes out > > when I have the radiator > > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > > last few days, and the leak seems to stop.
Response:
I’m thinking he meant turning off the *Heater* inside the car. And this would make sense, no heater, no leakage.. the vaulve closes and restricts the water getting to the leak.. Either : 1) don’t turn the heater on, 2) replace the inside heater core, or 3) if you wanted to be sneaky – I’ve done this on a couple of my old beaters is just find where the hoses circulate into the firwall, and put a splice in between the two ingoing and outgoing hoses so you effectively bypass the heater core inside the car. This of course will render your heater useless. It will also stop the leaking. Depending on how old of a car it is, and what climate you live in, you may not care if the heater works or not. I’ve not heard of any negative effects of doing this, probably better to have the thing disconnected than having that stuff running into your car – what a terrible smell. -Brian
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> As the others have said, your heater core (inside the dash, along side the a/c evaporator) > has sprung a leak. > Heater cores are no longer practical to repair, just replaced. > It could be expensive because a technician may have to dig deeply into the dash, even > remove it. (Lots of labor hours.) > Curious, how are you able to turn off the radiator and fan? > John > http://www.imcool.com/articles/antifreeze-coolant/whygoodradsgobad.htm > Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: > http://www.imcool.com/
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> …I notice also it only comes out > when I have the radiator > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > last few days, and the leak seems to stop.
Response:
As the others have said, your heater core (inside the dash, along side the a/c evaporator) has sprung a leak. Heater cores are no longer practical to repair, just replaced. It could be expensive because a technician may have to dig deeply into the dash, even remove it. (Lots of labor hours.) Curious, how are you able to turn off the radiator and fan? John http://www.imcool.com/articles/antifreeze-coolant/whygoodradsgobad.htm Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: http://www.imcool.com/ – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > …I notice also it only comes out > when I have the radiator > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > last few days, and the leak seems to stop.
Response:
hello all, I am wondering if you can help me figure out where this leak is coming from. My car, 1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera, 4door sedan, recently start to leak a greenish fluid into the passenger compartment just under the dash and it seems to be coming out of the heater vent. It appears to be engine coolant fluid, aka antifreeze. I don’t understand how it gets there from the radiator. I notice also it only comes out when I have the radiator and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the last few days, and the leak seems to stop. I just don’t understand where the leak could have come from though, I thought the radiator heat exhanger only have freon running inside of it. And why does it seems to be running out of the under the dash heater vent? It spills into the carpets on both the driver side and passenger side, at the place where you put your feet. Any pointers, opinions etc. are appreciated.
Response:
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > hello all, I am wondering if you can help me figure out where this leak > is coming from. > My car, 1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera, 4door sedan, recently start to > leak a greenish > fluid into the passenger compartment just under the dash and it seems to > be coming > out of the heater vent. It appears to be engine coolant fluid, aka > antifreeze. I don’t understand > how it gets there from the radiator. I notice also it only comes out > when I have the radiator > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > last few days, and the leak seems > to stop. > I just don’t understand where the leak could have come from though, I > thought the radiator > heat exhanger only have freon running inside of it. And why does it > seems to be running out > of the under the dash heater vent? It spills into the carpets on both > the driver side and passenger > side, at the place where you put your feet. > Any pointers, opinions etc. are appreciated.
Hot water from the engine circulates through the heater core. That is how you stay warm in the winter. The heater core blew up. Replace it.
Response:
Don’t forget to replace stiff heater hoses and ck for bad motor mounts.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Thanks for that clarification on both parts, especially on the tank-tube detail. > Sorry about the tube confusion, but that’s the "core" manufacturing in me coming out. > Chuckle, > John > Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: > http://www.imcool.com/ > you don’t have to take off anything except the underdash panels to remove > the AC ducts, and the cover over the core (plus a console extension if so > equipped) a 1/4" air ratchet, a 6" extension, and a 7 mm (or 9/32 socket) ‘mirrors > on a stick’ deals to help you find the screws > OE cores have plastic tanks with a very short plastic tube, a longer plastic > tube with any offset needed is ’sonically welded’ to the short > tube…….and this junction is where about 90 % of them leak….vibration > and flexing of the hoses breaks the sonic weld
Response:
Hi, When I bought my 88 olds ciera it had the same problem. Just replace the heater core. That way, it will get rid of any doubt, since you will have replaced everything under that dash that contains antifreeze, and have tightened the connections. It is a part that is less than twenty dollars, 15 at autozone. It is located just above the "hump" in the floor under the dash. I believe there are 4 screws around the black plastic cover. Take those out. Then, under the hood on the firewall just behind the power steering pump, disconnect the two black water hoses. Then, just unbolt the core and take it out to replace it. It takes less than an hour to do. Make sure you drain the cooling system first. Good Luck Rob – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > hello all, I am wondering if you can help me figure out where this leak > is coming from. > My car, 1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera, 4door sedan, recently start to > leak a greenish > fluid into the passenger compartment just under the dash and it seems to > be coming > out of the heater vent. It appears to be engine coolant fluid, aka > antifreeze. I don’t understand > how it gets there from the radiator. I notice also it only comes out > when I have the radiator > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > last few days, and the leak seems > to stop. > I just don’t understand where the leak could have come from though, I > thought the radiator > heat exhanger only have freon running inside of it. And why does it > seems to be running out > of the under the dash heater vent? It spills into the carpets on both > the driver side and passenger > side, at the place where you put your feet. > Any pointers, opinions etc. are appreciated.
Response:
> the core is still under pressure when off. I drove around with > mine bypassed for about a year (through a philly winter!). > Note that you can wear gloves but the defrost is really hard > to live without.
Hey, I had a car like that. In fact, a couple of them. My ‘64 Karmen Ghia had no heat as the air ducts were rusted out. I carried an ice scraper to use as a "defroster". Ed http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
Response:
Your options are: 1. as someone has already said, bypass the heater by disconnecting them from the heater core and using a pipe to re-connect them together. (No heat in the winter, but also, no heat for the defroster during any summer/fall rainshowers when windshields fog up.) 2. have the heater core changed now and forget the problem. Note: turning the heat lever to full cold will not necessarily shut off all hot water to the heater core. Often, those valves still leak quite a bit, enough to give you heat into the cabin when you least want it…on 95F days! Some people do install an aftermarket heater control valve that allows them to full shut off the flow of hot coolant to the heater from inside the cabin. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I think I made a typo. I mean I turned off the AC, and I turned off the fan > that blows AC cool air into the inside of the car. There is actually such a slider switch in > my car, > its like FAN: (low, med, high). My car is 1988.
Response:
That was probably because the VW didn’t have any antifreeze! ;) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> the core is still under pressure when off. I drove around with > mine bypassed for about a year (through a philly winter!). > Note that you can wear gloves but the defrost is really hard > to live without. > Hey, I had a car like that. In fact, a couple of them. My ‘64 Karmen Ghia > had no heat as the air ducts were rusted out. I carried an ice scraper to > use as a "defroster". > Ed > http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
Response:
just replace the damned heater core 1) the heater core and AC condenser share a common drain 2) there is no ’shut-off’ for heater water on this vehicle, it ’shuts off the heat’ by swinging the ‘blend door’ to a position where air does not pass thru the heater core 3) its a 2-hour job at worst 4) be sure to use a core with brass tubes instead of those crappy plastic ones like the factory uses just do it
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Your options are: > 1. as someone has already said, bypass the heater by disconnecting them from the heater > core and using a pipe to re-connect them together. > (No heat in the winter, but also, no heat for the defroster during any summer/fall > rainshowers when windshields fog up.) > 2. have the heater core changed now and forget the problem. > Note: turning the heat lever to full cold will not necessarily shut off all hot water to > the heater core. Often, those valves still leak quite a bit, enough to give you heat into > the cabin when you least want it…on 95F days! Some people do install an aftermarket > heater control valve that allows them to full shut off the flow of hot coolant to the > heater from inside the cabin.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I think I made a typo. I mean I turned off the AC, and I turned off the fan > that blows AC cool air into the inside of the car. There is actually such a slider > switch in > my car, > its like FAN: (low, med, high). My car is 1988.
Response:
it’s more than likely the heater core..my ex 86 bronco did the same exact thing
Response:
3. Are you sure about the 2-hour job? Not if they have to pull the dash and any a/c components. 4. Not to be a wise ass, but the original heaters are actually made with aluminum cores (and tubes). Only the crimped-on tanks are made of plastic. Aftermarket replacements could be copper fins with brass tubes and soldered-on brass tanks. John (a former employee of a copper-brass radiator/heater manufacturer that got "displaced" by aluminum and plastic) Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: http://www.imcool.com/
… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 3) its a 2-hour job at worst > 4) be sure to use a core with brass tubes instead of those crappy plastic > ones like the factory uses
Response:
you don’t have to take off anything except the underdash panels to remove the AC ducts, and the cover over the core (plus a console extension if so equipped) a 1/4" air ratchet, a 6" extension, and a 7 mm (or 9/32 socket) on a stick’ deals to help you find the screws OE cores have plastic tanks with a very short plastic tube, a longer plastic tube with any offset needed is ’sonically welded’ to the short tube…….and this juction is where about 90 % of them leak….vibration and flexing of the hoses breaks the sonic weld
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 3. Are you sure about the 2-hour job? Not if they have to pull the dash and any a/c > components. > 4. Not to be a wise ass, but the original heaters are actually made with aluminum cores > (and tubes). Only the crimped-on tanks are made of plastic. > Aftermarket replacements could be copper fins with brass tubes and soldered-on brass > tanks. > John > (a former employee of a copper-brass radiator/heater manufacturer that got "displaced" by > aluminum and plastic) > Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: > http://www.imcool.com/ > … > 3) its a 2-hour job at worst > 4) be sure to use a core with brass tubes instead of those crappy plastic > ones like the factory uses
Response:
Thanks for that clarification on both parts, especially on the tank-tube detail. Sorry about the tube confusion, but that’s the "core" manufacturing in me coming out. Chuckle, John Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: http://www.imcool.com/
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> you don’t have to take off anything except the underdash panels to remove > the AC ducts, and the cover over the core (plus a console extension if so > equipped) a 1/4" air ratchet, a 6" extension, and a 7 mm (or 9/32 socket) > on a stick’ deals to help you find the screws > OE cores have plastic tanks with a very short plastic tube, a longer plastic > tube with any offset needed is ’sonically welded’ to the short > tube…….and this junction is where about 90 % of them leak….vibration > and flexing of the hoses breaks the sonic weld
Response:
:I’m thinking he meant turning off the *Heater* inside the car. : :And this would make sense, no heater, no leakage.. the vaulve closes and :restricts the water getting to the leak.. the core is still under pressure when off. I drove around with mine bypassed for about a year (through a philly winter!). Note that you can wear gloves but the defrost is really hard to live without.
Response:
> As the others have said, your heater core (inside the dash, along side the a/c evaporator) > has sprung a leak. > Heater cores are no longer practical to repair, just replaced. > It could be expensive because a technician may have to dig deeply into the dash, even > remove it. (Lots of labor hours.) > Curious, how are you able to turn off the radiator and fan?
I think I made a typo. I mean I turned off the AC, and I turned off the fan that blows AC cool air into the inside of the car. There is actually such a slider switch in my car, its like FAN: (low, med, high). My car is 1988. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> John > http://www.imcool.com/articles/antifreeze-coolant/whygoodradsgobad.htm > Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: > http://www.imcool.com/ > …I notice also it only comes out > when I have the radiator > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > last few days, and the leak seems to stop.
Response:
> I’m thinking he meant turning off the *Heater* inside the car.
No I mean I turned off the AC and the fan which blows cool air from the AC unit into the car. No I don’t turn on the heater in the summer. But funny enough, on my car, the switch for turning on the AC and heater is the same one, you just slide it to different location. I wish I have a digital camera, I would take a picture for all to see. AC Max Normal Bi-Level Heater Def ^^^^ This is where the slider switch was placed at Fan Low Med High ^^^^ I had it on high. > And this would make sense, no heater, no leakage.. the vaulve closes and > restricts the water getting to the leak.. > Either : > 1) don’t turn the heater on,
I didn’t, I only turned on the AC. > 2) replace the inside heater core, or > 3) if you wanted to be sneaky – I’ve done this on a couple of my old > beaters is just find where the hoses circulate into the firwall, and put a > splice in between the two ingoing and outgoing hoses so you effectively > bypass the heater core inside the car. This of course will render your > heater useless. It will also stop the leaking. Depending on how old of a > car it is, and what climate you live in, you may not care if the heater
I live in Toronto, Canada. And you don’t want to drive without a heater in late Dec, Jan, Feb, even Mar here. > works or not. I’ve not heard of any negative effects of doing this, > probably better to have the thing disconnected than having that stuff > running into your car – what a terrible smell.
Yeah, it smells like anti-freeze. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> -Brian > As the others have said, your heater core (inside the dash, along side the > a/c evaporator) > has sprung a leak. > Heater cores are no longer practical to repair, just replaced. > It could be expensive because a technician may have to dig deeply into the > dash, even > remove it. (Lots of labor hours.) > Curious, how are you able to turn off the radiator and fan? > John > http://www.imcool.com/articles/antifreeze-coolant/whygoodradsgobad.htm > Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: > http://www.imcool.com/ > > …I notice also it only comes out > > when I have the radiator > > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > > last few days, and the leak seems to stop.
Response:
I’m thinking he meant turning off the *Heater* inside the car. And this would make sense, no heater, no leakage.. the vaulve closes and restricts the water getting to the leak.. Either : 1) don’t turn the heater on, 2) replace the inside heater core, or 3) if you wanted to be sneaky – I’ve done this on a couple of my old beaters is just find where the hoses circulate into the firwall, and put a splice in between the two ingoing and outgoing hoses so you effectively bypass the heater core inside the car. This of course will render your heater useless. It will also stop the leaking. Depending on how old of a car it is, and what climate you live in, you may not care if the heater works or not. I’ve not heard of any negative effects of doing this, probably better to have the thing disconnected than having that stuff running into your car – what a terrible smell. -Brian
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> As the others have said, your heater core (inside the dash, along side the a/c evaporator) > has sprung a leak. > Heater cores are no longer practical to repair, just replaced. > It could be expensive because a technician may have to dig deeply into the dash, even > remove it. (Lots of labor hours.) > Curious, how are you able to turn off the radiator and fan? > John > http://www.imcool.com/articles/antifreeze-coolant/whygoodradsgobad.htm > Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: > http://www.imcool.com/
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> …I notice also it only comes out > when I have the radiator > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > last few days, and the leak seems to stop.
Response:
As the others have said, your heater core (inside the dash, along side the a/c evaporator) has sprung a leak. Heater cores are no longer practical to repair, just replaced. It could be expensive because a technician may have to dig deeply into the dash, even remove it. (Lots of labor hours.) Curious, how are you able to turn off the radiator and fan? John http://www.imcool.com/articles/antifreeze-coolant/whygoodradsgobad.htm Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: http://www.imcool.com/ – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > …I notice also it only comes out > when I have the radiator > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > last few days, and the leak seems to stop.
Response:
hello all, I am wondering if you can help me figure out where this leak is coming from. My car, 1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera, 4door sedan, recently start to leak a greenish fluid into the passenger compartment just under the dash and it seems to be coming out of the heater vent. It appears to be engine coolant fluid, aka antifreeze. I don’t understand how it gets there from the radiator. I notice also it only comes out when I have the radiator and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the last few days, and the leak seems to stop. I just don’t understand where the leak could have come from though, I thought the radiator heat exhanger only have freon running inside of it. And why does it seems to be running out of the under the dash heater vent? It spills into the carpets on both the driver side and passenger side, at the place where you put your feet. Any pointers, opinions etc. are appreciated.
Response:
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > hello all, I am wondering if you can help me figure out where this leak > is coming from. > My car, 1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera, 4door sedan, recently start to > leak a greenish > fluid into the passenger compartment just under the dash and it seems to > be coming > out of the heater vent. It appears to be engine coolant fluid, aka > antifreeze. I don’t understand > how it gets there from the radiator. I notice also it only comes out > when I have the radiator > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > last few days, and the leak seems > to stop. > I just don’t understand where the leak could have come from though, I > thought the radiator > heat exhanger only have freon running inside of it. And why does it > seems to be running out > of the under the dash heater vent? It spills into the carpets on both > the driver side and passenger > side, at the place where you put your feet. > Any pointers, opinions etc. are appreciated.
Hot water from the engine circulates through the heater core. That is how you stay warm in the winter. The heater core blew up. Replace it.
Response:
Don’t forget to replace stiff heater hoses and ck for bad motor mounts.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Thanks for that clarification on both parts, especially on the tank-tube detail. > Sorry about the tube confusion, but that’s the "core" manufacturing in me coming out. > Chuckle, > John > Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: > http://www.imcool.com/ > you don’t have to take off anything except the underdash panels to remove > the AC ducts, and the cover over the core (plus a console extension if so > equipped) a 1/4" air ratchet, a 6" extension, and a 7 mm (or 9/32 socket) ‘mirrors > on a stick’ deals to help you find the screws > OE cores have plastic tanks with a very short plastic tube, a longer plastic > tube with any offset needed is ’sonically welded’ to the short > tube…….and this junction is where about 90 % of them leak….vibration > and flexing of the hoses breaks the sonic weld
Response:
Hi, When I bought my 88 olds ciera it had the same problem. Just replace the heater core. That way, it will get rid of any doubt, since you will have replaced everything under that dash that contains antifreeze, and have tightened the connections. It is a part that is less than twenty dollars, 15 at autozone. It is located just above the "hump" in the floor under the dash. I believe there are 4 screws around the black plastic cover. Take those out. Then, under the hood on the firewall just behind the power steering pump, disconnect the two black water hoses. Then, just unbolt the core and take it out to replace it. It takes less than an hour to do. Make sure you drain the cooling system first. Good Luck Rob – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > hello all, I am wondering if you can help me figure out where this leak > is coming from. > My car, 1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera, 4door sedan, recently start to > leak a greenish > fluid into the passenger compartment just under the dash and it seems to > be coming > out of the heater vent. It appears to be engine coolant fluid, aka > antifreeze. I don’t understand > how it gets there from the radiator. I notice also it only comes out > when I have the radiator > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > last few days, and the leak seems > to stop. > I just don’t understand where the leak could have come from though, I > thought the radiator > heat exhanger only have freon running inside of it. And why does it > seems to be running out > of the under the dash heater vent? It spills into the carpets on both > the driver side and passenger > side, at the place where you put your feet. > Any pointers, opinions etc. are appreciated.
Response:
> the core is still under pressure when off. I drove around with > mine bypassed for about a year (through a philly winter!). > Note that you can wear gloves but the defrost is really hard > to live without.
Hey, I had a car like that. In fact, a couple of them. My ‘64 Karmen Ghia had no heat as the air ducts were rusted out. I carried an ice scraper to use as a "defroster". Ed http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
Response:
Your options are: 1. as someone has already said, bypass the heater by disconnecting them from the heater core and using a pipe to re-connect them together. (No heat in the winter, but also, no heat for the defroster during any summer/fall rainshowers when windshields fog up.) 2. have the heater core changed now and forget the problem. Note: turning the heat lever to full cold will not necessarily shut off all hot water to the heater core. Often, those valves still leak quite a bit, enough to give you heat into the cabin when you least want it…on 95F days! Some people do install an aftermarket heater control valve that allows them to full shut off the flow of hot coolant to the heater from inside the cabin. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I think I made a typo. I mean I turned off the AC, and I turned off the fan > that blows AC cool air into the inside of the car. There is actually such a slider switch in > my car, > its like FAN: (low, med, high). My car is 1988.
Response:
That was probably because the VW didn’t have any antifreeze! ;) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> the core is still under pressure when off. I drove around with > mine bypassed for about a year (through a philly winter!). > Note that you can wear gloves but the defrost is really hard > to live without. > Hey, I had a car like that. In fact, a couple of them. My ‘64 Karmen Ghia > had no heat as the air ducts were rusted out. I carried an ice scraper to > use as a "defroster". > Ed > http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
Response:
just replace the damned heater core 1) the heater core and AC condenser share a common drain 2) there is no ’shut-off’ for heater water on this vehicle, it ’shuts off the heat’ by swinging the ‘blend door’ to a position where air does not pass thru the heater core 3) its a 2-hour job at worst 4) be sure to use a core with brass tubes instead of those crappy plastic ones like the factory uses just do it
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Your options are: > 1. as someone has already said, bypass the heater by disconnecting them from the heater > core and using a pipe to re-connect them together. > (No heat in the winter, but also, no heat for the defroster during any summer/fall > rainshowers when windshields fog up.) > 2. have the heater core changed now and forget the problem. > Note: turning the heat lever to full cold will not necessarily shut off all hot water to > the heater core. Often, those valves still leak quite a bit, enough to give you heat into > the cabin when you least want it…on 95F days! Some people do install an aftermarket > heater control valve that allows them to full shut off the flow of hot coolant to the > heater from inside the cabin.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I think I made a typo. I mean I turned off the AC, and I turned off the fan > that blows AC cool air into the inside of the car. There is actually such a slider > switch in > my car, > its like FAN: (low, med, high). My car is 1988.
Response:
it’s more than likely the heater core..my ex 86 bronco did the same exact thing
Response:
3. Are you sure about the 2-hour job? Not if they have to pull the dash and any a/c components. 4. Not to be a wise ass, but the original heaters are actually made with aluminum cores (and tubes). Only the crimped-on tanks are made of plastic. Aftermarket replacements could be copper fins with brass tubes and soldered-on brass tanks. John (a former employee of a copper-brass radiator/heater manufacturer that got "displaced" by aluminum and plastic) Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: http://www.imcool.com/
… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 3) its a 2-hour job at worst > 4) be sure to use a core with brass tubes instead of those crappy plastic > ones like the factory uses
Response:
you don’t have to take off anything except the underdash panels to remove the AC ducts, and the cover over the core (plus a console extension if so equipped) a 1/4" air ratchet, a 6" extension, and a 7 mm (or 9/32 socket) on a stick’ deals to help you find the screws OE cores have plastic tanks with a very short plastic tube, a longer plastic tube with any offset needed is ’sonically welded’ to the short tube…….and this juction is where about 90 % of them leak….vibration and flexing of the hoses breaks the sonic weld
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 3. Are you sure about the 2-hour job? Not if they have to pull the dash and any a/c > components. > 4. Not to be a wise ass, but the original heaters are actually made with aluminum cores > (and tubes). Only the crimped-on tanks are made of plastic. > Aftermarket replacements could be copper fins with brass tubes and soldered-on brass > tanks. > John > (a former employee of a copper-brass radiator/heater manufacturer that got "displaced" by > aluminum and plastic) > Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: > http://www.imcool.com/ > … > 3) its a 2-hour job at worst > 4) be sure to use a core with brass tubes instead of those crappy plastic > ones like the factory uses
Response:
Thanks for that clarification on both parts, especially on the tank-tube detail. Sorry about the tube confusion, but that’s the "core" manufacturing in me coming out. Chuckle, John Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: http://www.imcool.com/
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> you don’t have to take off anything except the underdash panels to remove > the AC ducts, and the cover over the core (plus a console extension if so > equipped) a 1/4" air ratchet, a 6" extension, and a 7 mm (or 9/32 socket) > on a stick’ deals to help you find the screws > OE cores have plastic tanks with a very short plastic tube, a longer plastic > tube with any offset needed is ’sonically welded’ to the short > tube…….and this junction is where about 90 % of them leak….vibration > and flexing of the hoses breaks the sonic weld
Response:
:I’m thinking he meant turning off the *Heater* inside the car. : :And this would make sense, no heater, no leakage.. the vaulve closes and :restricts the water getting to the leak.. the core is still under pressure when off. I drove around with mine bypassed for about a year (through a philly winter!). Note that you can wear gloves but the defrost is really hard to live without.
Response:
> As the others have said, your heater core (inside the dash, along side the a/c evaporator) > has sprung a leak. > Heater cores are no longer practical to repair, just replaced. > It could be expensive because a technician may have to dig deeply into the dash, even > remove it. (Lots of labor hours.) > Curious, how are you able to turn off the radiator and fan?
I think I made a typo. I mean I turned off the AC, and I turned off the fan that blows AC cool air into the inside of the car. There is actually such a slider switch in my car, its like FAN: (low, med, high). My car is 1988. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> John > http://www.imcool.com/articles/antifreeze-coolant/whygoodradsgobad.htm > Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: > http://www.imcool.com/ > …I notice also it only comes out > when I have the radiator > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > last few days, and the leak seems to stop.
Response:
> I’m thinking he meant turning off the *Heater* inside the car.
No I mean I turned off the AC and the fan which blows cool air from the AC unit into the car. No I don’t turn on the heater in the summer. But funny enough, on my car, the switch for turning on the AC and heater is the same one, you just slide it to different location. I wish I have a digital camera, I would take a picture for all to see. AC Max Normal Bi-Level Heater Def ^^^^ This is where the slider switch was placed at Fan Low Med High ^^^^ I had it on high. > And this would make sense, no heater, no leakage.. the vaulve closes and > restricts the water getting to the leak.. > Either : > 1) don’t turn the heater on,
I didn’t, I only turned on the AC. > 2) replace the inside heater core, or > 3) if you wanted to be sneaky – I’ve done this on a couple of my old > beaters is just find where the hoses circulate into the firwall, and put a > splice in between the two ingoing and outgoing hoses so you effectively > bypass the heater core inside the car. This of course will render your > heater useless. It will also stop the leaking. Depending on how old of a > car it is, and what climate you live in, you may not care if the heater
I live in Toronto, Canada. And you don’t want to drive without a heater in late Dec, Jan, Feb, even Mar here. > works or not. I’ve not heard of any negative effects of doing this, > probably better to have the thing disconnected than having that stuff > running into your car – what a terrible smell.
Yeah, it smells like anti-freeze. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> -Brian > As the others have said, your heater core (inside the dash, along side the > a/c evaporator) > has sprung a leak. > Heater cores are no longer practical to repair, just replaced. > It could be expensive because a technician may have to dig deeply into the > dash, even > remove it. (Lots of labor hours.) > Curious, how are you able to turn off the radiator and fan? > John > http://www.imcool.com/articles/antifreeze-coolant/whygoodradsgobad.htm > Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: > http://www.imcool.com/ > > …I notice also it only comes out > > when I have the radiator > > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > > last few days, and the leak seems to stop.
Response:
I’m thinking he meant turning off the *Heater* inside the car. And this would make sense, no heater, no leakage.. the vaulve closes and restricts the water getting to the leak.. Either : 1) don’t turn the heater on, 2) replace the inside heater core, or 3) if you wanted to be sneaky – I’ve done this on a couple of my old beaters is just find where the hoses circulate into the firwall, and put a splice in between the two ingoing and outgoing hoses so you effectively bypass the heater core inside the car. This of course will render your heater useless. It will also stop the leaking. Depending on how old of a car it is, and what climate you live in, you may not care if the heater works or not. I’ve not heard of any negative effects of doing this, probably better to have the thing disconnected than having that stuff running into your car – what a terrible smell. -Brian
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> As the others have said, your heater core (inside the dash, along side the a/c evaporator) > has sprung a leak. > Heater cores are no longer practical to repair, just replaced. > It could be expensive because a technician may have to dig deeply into the dash, even > remove it. (Lots of labor hours.) > Curious, how are you able to turn off the radiator and fan? > John > http://www.imcool.com/articles/antifreeze-coolant/whygoodradsgobad.htm > Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: > http://www.imcool.com/
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> …I notice also it only comes out > when I have the radiator > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > last few days, and the leak seems to stop.
Response:
As the others have said, your heater core (inside the dash, along side the a/c evaporator) has sprung a leak. Heater cores are no longer practical to repair, just replaced. It could be expensive because a technician may have to dig deeply into the dash, even remove it. (Lots of labor hours.) Curious, how are you able to turn off the radiator and fan? John http://www.imcool.com/articles/antifreeze-coolant/whygoodradsgobad.htm Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: http://www.imcool.com/ – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > …I notice also it only comes out > when I have the radiator > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > last few days, and the leak seems to stop.
Response:
hello all, I am wondering if you can help me figure out where this leak is coming from. My car, 1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera, 4door sedan, recently start to leak a greenish fluid into the passenger compartment just under the dash and it seems to be coming out of the heater vent. It appears to be engine coolant fluid, aka antifreeze. I don’t understand how it gets there from the radiator. I notice also it only comes out when I have the radiator and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the last few days, and the leak seems to stop. I just don’t understand where the leak could have come from though, I thought the radiator heat exhanger only have freon running inside of it. And why does it seems to be running out of the under the dash heater vent? It spills into the carpets on both the driver side and passenger side, at the place where you put your feet. Any pointers, opinions etc. are appreciated.
Response:
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > hello all, I am wondering if you can help me figure out where this leak > is coming from. > My car, 1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera, 4door sedan, recently start to > leak a greenish > fluid into the passenger compartment just under the dash and it seems to > be coming > out of the heater vent. It appears to be engine coolant fluid, aka > antifreeze. I don’t understand > how it gets there from the radiator. I notice also it only comes out > when I have the radiator > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > last few days, and the leak seems > to stop. > I just don’t understand where the leak could have come from though, I > thought the radiator > heat exhanger only have freon running inside of it. And why does it > seems to be running out > of the under the dash heater vent? It spills into the carpets on both > the driver side and passenger > side, at the place where you put your feet. > Any pointers, opinions etc. are appreciated.
Hot water from the engine circulates through the heater core. That is how you stay warm in the winter. The heater core blew up. Replace it.
Response:
Don’t forget to replace stiff heater hoses and ck for bad motor mounts.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Thanks for that clarification on both parts, especially on the tank-tube detail. > Sorry about the tube confusion, but that’s the "core" manufacturing in me coming out. > Chuckle, > John > Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: > http://www.imcool.com/ > you don’t have to take off anything except the underdash panels to remove > the AC ducts, and the cover over the core (plus a console extension if so > equipped) a 1/4" air ratchet, a 6" extension, and a 7 mm (or 9/32 socket) ‘mirrors > on a stick’ deals to help you find the screws > OE cores have plastic tanks with a very short plastic tube, a longer plastic > tube with any offset needed is ’sonically welded’ to the short > tube…….and this junction is where about 90 % of them leak….vibration > and flexing of the hoses breaks the sonic weld
Response:
Hi, When I bought my 88 olds ciera it had the same problem. Just replace the heater core. That way, it will get rid of any doubt, since you will have replaced everything under that dash that contains antifreeze, and have tightened the connections. It is a part that is less than twenty dollars, 15 at autozone. It is located just above the "hump" in the floor under the dash. I believe there are 4 screws around the black plastic cover. Take those out. Then, under the hood on the firewall just behind the power steering pump, disconnect the two black water hoses. Then, just unbolt the core and take it out to replace it. It takes less than an hour to do. Make sure you drain the cooling system first. Good Luck Rob – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > hello all, I am wondering if you can help me figure out where this leak > is coming from. > My car, 1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera, 4door sedan, recently start to > leak a greenish > fluid into the passenger compartment just under the dash and it seems to > be coming > out of the heater vent. It appears to be engine coolant fluid, aka > antifreeze. I don’t understand > how it gets there from the radiator. I notice also it only comes out > when I have the radiator > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > last few days, and the leak seems > to stop. > I just don’t understand where the leak could have come from though, I > thought the radiator > heat exhanger only have freon running inside of it. And why does it > seems to be running out > of the under the dash heater vent? It spills into the carpets on both > the driver side and passenger > side, at the place where you put your feet. > Any pointers, opinions etc. are appreciated.
Response:
> the core is still under pressure when off. I drove around with > mine bypassed for about a year (through a philly winter!). > Note that you can wear gloves but the defrost is really hard > to live without.
Hey, I had a car like that. In fact, a couple of them. My ‘64 Karmen Ghia had no heat as the air ducts were rusted out. I carried an ice scraper to use as a "defroster". Ed http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
Response:
Your options are: 1. as someone has already said, bypass the heater by disconnecting them from the heater core and using a pipe to re-connect them together. (No heat in the winter, but also, no heat for the defroster during any summer/fall rainshowers when windshields fog up.) 2. have the heater core changed now and forget the problem. Note: turning the heat lever to full cold will not necessarily shut off all hot water to the heater core. Often, those valves still leak quite a bit, enough to give you heat into the cabin when you least want it…on 95F days! Some people do install an aftermarket heater control valve that allows them to full shut off the flow of hot coolant to the heater from inside the cabin. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I think I made a typo. I mean I turned off the AC, and I turned off the fan > that blows AC cool air into the inside of the car. There is actually such a slider switch in > my car, > its like FAN: (low, med, high). My car is 1988.
Response:
That was probably because the VW didn’t have any antifreeze! ;) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> the core is still under pressure when off. I drove around with > mine bypassed for about a year (through a philly winter!). > Note that you can wear gloves but the defrost is really hard > to live without. > Hey, I had a car like that. In fact, a couple of them. My ‘64 Karmen Ghia > had no heat as the air ducts were rusted out. I carried an ice scraper to > use as a "defroster". > Ed > http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
Response:
just replace the damned heater core 1) the heater core and AC condenser share a common drain 2) there is no ’shut-off’ for heater water on this vehicle, it ’shuts off the heat’ by swinging the ‘blend door’ to a position where air does not pass thru the heater core 3) its a 2-hour job at worst 4) be sure to use a core with brass tubes instead of those crappy plastic ones like the factory uses just do it
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Your options are: > 1. as someone has already said, bypass the heater by disconnecting them from the heater > core and using a pipe to re-connect them together. > (No heat in the winter, but also, no heat for the defroster during any summer/fall > rainshowers when windshields fog up.) > 2. have the heater core changed now and forget the problem. > Note: turning the heat lever to full cold will not necessarily shut off all hot water to > the heater core. Often, those valves still leak quite a bit, enough to give you heat into > the cabin when you least want it…on 95F days! Some people do install an aftermarket > heater control valve that allows them to full shut off the flow of hot coolant to the > heater from inside the cabin.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I think I made a typo. I mean I turned off the AC, and I turned off the fan > that blows AC cool air into the inside of the car. There is actually such a slider > switch in > my car, > its like FAN: (low, med, high). My car is 1988.
Response:
it’s more than likely the heater core..my ex 86 bronco did the same exact thing
Response:
3. Are you sure about the 2-hour job? Not if they have to pull the dash and any a/c components. 4. Not to be a wise ass, but the original heaters are actually made with aluminum cores (and tubes). Only the crimped-on tanks are made of plastic. Aftermarket replacements could be copper fins with brass tubes and soldered-on brass tanks. John (a former employee of a copper-brass radiator/heater manufacturer that got "displaced" by aluminum and plastic) Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: http://www.imcool.com/
… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 3) its a 2-hour job at worst > 4) be sure to use a core with brass tubes instead of those crappy plastic > ones like the factory uses
Response:
you don’t have to take off anything except the underdash panels to remove the AC ducts, and the cover over the core (plus a console extension if so equipped) a 1/4" air ratchet, a 6" extension, and a 7 mm (or 9/32 socket) on a stick’ deals to help you find the screws OE cores have plastic tanks with a very short plastic tube, a longer plastic tube with any offset needed is ’sonically welded’ to the short tube…….and this juction is where about 90 % of them leak….vibration and flexing of the hoses breaks the sonic weld
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 3. Are you sure about the 2-hour job? Not if they have to pull the dash and any a/c > components. > 4. Not to be a wise ass, but the original heaters are actually made with aluminum cores > (and tubes). Only the crimped-on tanks are made of plastic. > Aftermarket replacements could be copper fins with brass tubes and soldered-on brass > tanks. > John > (a former employee of a copper-brass radiator/heater manufacturer that got "displaced" by > aluminum and plastic) > Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: > http://www.imcool.com/ > … > 3) its a 2-hour job at worst > 4) be sure to use a core with brass tubes instead of those crappy plastic > ones like the factory uses
Response:
Thanks for that clarification on both parts, especially on the tank-tube detail. Sorry about the tube confusion, but that’s the "core" manufacturing in me coming out. Chuckle, John Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: http://www.imcool.com/
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> you don’t have to take off anything except the underdash panels to remove > the AC ducts, and the cover over the core (plus a console extension if so > equipped) a 1/4" air ratchet, a 6" extension, and a 7 mm (or 9/32 socket) > on a stick’ deals to help you find the screws > OE cores have plastic tanks with a very short plastic tube, a longer plastic > tube with any offset needed is ’sonically welded’ to the short > tube…….and this junction is where about 90 % of them leak….vibration > and flexing of the hoses breaks the sonic weld
Response:
:I’m thinking he meant turning off the *Heater* inside the car. : :And this would make sense, no heater, no leakage.. the vaulve closes and :restricts the water getting to the leak.. the core is still under pressure when off. I drove around with mine bypassed for about a year (through a philly winter!). Note that you can wear gloves but the defrost is really hard to live without.
Response:
> As the others have said, your heater core (inside the dash, along side the a/c evaporator) > has sprung a leak. > Heater cores are no longer practical to repair, just replaced. > It could be expensive because a technician may have to dig deeply into the dash, even > remove it. (Lots of labor hours.) > Curious, how are you able to turn off the radiator and fan?
I think I made a typo. I mean I turned off the AC, and I turned off the fan that blows AC cool air into the inside of the car. There is actually such a slider switch in my car, its like FAN: (low, med, high). My car is 1988. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> John > http://www.imcool.com/articles/antifreeze-coolant/whygoodradsgobad.htm > Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: > http://www.imcool.com/ > …I notice also it only comes out > when I have the radiator > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > last few days, and the leak seems to stop.
Response:
> I’m thinking he meant turning off the *Heater* inside the car.
No I mean I turned off the AC and the fan which blows cool air from the AC unit into the car. No I don’t turn on the heater in the summer. But funny enough, on my car, the switch for turning on the AC and heater is the same one, you just slide it to different location. I wish I have a digital camera, I would take a picture for all to see. AC Max Normal Bi-Level Heater Def ^^^^ This is where the slider switch was placed at Fan Low Med High ^^^^ I had it on high. > And this would make sense, no heater, no leakage.. the vaulve closes and > restricts the water getting to the leak.. > Either : > 1) don’t turn the heater on,
I didn’t, I only turned on the AC. > 2) replace the inside heater core, or > 3) if you wanted to be sneaky – I’ve done this on a couple of my old > beaters is just find where the hoses circulate into the firwall, and put a > splice in between the two ingoing and outgoing hoses so you effectively > bypass the heater core inside the car. This of course will render your > heater useless. It will also stop the leaking. Depending on how old of a > car it is, and what climate you live in, you may not care if the heater
I live in Toronto, Canada. And you don’t want to drive without a heater in late Dec, Jan, Feb, even Mar here. > works or not. I’ve not heard of any negative effects of doing this, > probably better to have the thing disconnected than having that stuff > running into your car – what a terrible smell.
Yeah, it smells like anti-freeze. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> -Brian > As the others have said, your heater core (inside the dash, along side the > a/c evaporator) > has sprung a leak. > Heater cores are no longer practical to repair, just replaced. > It could be expensive because a technician may have to dig deeply into the > dash, even > remove it. (Lots of labor hours.) > Curious, how are you able to turn off the radiator and fan? > John > http://www.imcool.com/articles/antifreeze-coolant/whygoodradsgobad.htm > Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: > http://www.imcool.com/ > > …I notice also it only comes out > > when I have the radiator > > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > > last few days, and the leak seems to stop.
Response:
I’m thinking he meant turning off the *Heater* inside the car. And this would make sense, no heater, no leakage.. the vaulve closes and restricts the water getting to the leak.. Either : 1) don’t turn the heater on, 2) replace the inside heater core, or 3) if you wanted to be sneaky – I’ve done this on a couple of my old beaters is just find where the hoses circulate into the firwall, and put a splice in between the two ingoing and outgoing hoses so you effectively bypass the heater core inside the car. This of course will render your heater useless. It will also stop the leaking. Depending on how old of a car it is, and what climate you live in, you may not care if the heater works or not. I’ve not heard of any negative effects of doing this, probably better to have the thing disconnected than having that stuff running into your car – what a terrible smell. -Brian
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> As the others have said, your heater core (inside the dash, along side the a/c evaporator) > has sprung a leak. > Heater cores are no longer practical to repair, just replaced. > It could be expensive because a technician may have to dig deeply into the dash, even > remove it. (Lots of labor hours.) > Curious, how are you able to turn off the radiator and fan? > John > http://www.imcool.com/articles/antifreeze-coolant/whygoodradsgobad.htm > Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: > http://www.imcool.com/
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> …I notice also it only comes out > when I have the radiator > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > last few days, and the leak seems to stop.
Response:
As the others have said, your heater core (inside the dash, along side the a/c evaporator) has sprung a leak. Heater cores are no longer practical to repair, just replaced. It could be expensive because a technician may have to dig deeply into the dash, even remove it. (Lots of labor hours.) Curious, how are you able to turn off the radiator and fan? John http://www.imcool.com/articles/antifreeze-coolant/whygoodradsgobad.htm Learn about automotive coolants and refrigerants at: http://www.imcool.com/ – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > …I notice also it only comes out > when I have the radiator > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > last few days, and the leak seems to stop.
Response:
hello all, I am wondering if you can help me figure out where this leak is coming from. My car, 1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera, 4door sedan, recently start to leak a greenish fluid into the passenger compartment just under the dash and it seems to be coming out of the heater vent. It appears to be engine coolant fluid, aka antifreeze. I don’t understand how it gets there from the radiator. I notice also it only comes out when I have the radiator and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the last few days, and the leak seems to stop. I just don’t understand where the leak could have come from though, I thought the radiator heat exhanger only have freon running inside of it. And why does it seems to be running out of the under the dash heater vent? It spills into the carpets on both the driver side and passenger side, at the place where you put your feet. Any pointers, opinions etc. are appreciated.
Response:
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > hello all, I am wondering if you can help me figure out where this leak > is coming from. > My car, 1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera, 4door sedan, recently start to > leak a greenish > fluid into the passenger compartment just under the dash and it seems to > be coming > out of the heater vent. It appears to be engine coolant fluid, aka > antifreeze. I don’t understand > how it gets there from the radiator. I notice also it only comes out > when I have the radiator > and fan running, I confirmed this by not running the radiator for the > last few days, and the leak seems > to stop. > I just don’t understand where the leak could have come from though, I > thought the radiator > heat exhanger only have freon running inside of it. And why does it > seems to be running out > of the under the dash heater vent? It spills into the carpets on both > the driver side and passenger > side, at the place where you put your feet. > Any pointers, opinions etc. are appreciated.
Hot water from the engine circulates through the heater core. That is how you stay warm in the winter. The heater core blew up. Replace it.