Camera PV 2007 » Digital Camera » Electric fuel pumps suck.
Electric fuel pumps suck.
Question:
Fuel cooling is nothing new. Did you all know that the GE engines on many airlines use fuel to cool the engine control computers? For example, the GE-90 Engine control has fuel running through the computer chassis on it’s way to the engine. This serves the dual purposes of cooling the computer and pre-warming the fuel. Elliott – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > "SBlackfoot" wrote > What happens when the fuel level drops below the pump? That doesn’t sound > right… > Most of the late model in tank fuel pumps sit inside of > a plastic module that basically keeps the fuel pump > covered with fuel right to the last drop. So even > if you run the fuel level very low, the return fuel line > from the injectors is dumping fuel back into that module > and keeping the level of fuel around the fuel pump up > over the fuel pump. > Ian
Response:
> Fuel cooling is nothing new. Did you all know that the GE engines on > many > airlines use fuel to cool the engine control computers? For example, > the GE-90 Engine control has fuel running through the computer chassis > on it’s way to the engine. This serves the dual purposes of cooling the > computer and pre-warming the fuel.
There are many things in the automotive world that are "nothing new". All you have to do to prove that, is go browse through an aircraft museum and have a look at the WWII aircraft engines and the kind of technology that was in use in the 30’s and 40’s. Ian
Response:
Doc, You just said you weren’t looking for a a wiper motor and that you’rs works OK. Is someone out there impersinating you? Here is the post that I had repsonded to: Elliott Newsgroups: alt.autos.4×4.chevy-trucks, alt.trucks.chevy Ok guys, I’m stuck. The wiper circuit board on my 88′ C1500 gave up the ghost. Went to the dealership and the part they have listed is NOT correct. There is no part # on my existing circuit board, just GM production numbers (22062675 and 22062675). The part they tried to give me is a trapezoidal-shaped board; mine is rectangular (sorry, no digital camera) and slides into a plastic housing which in turn plugs in to the motor itself. It has a 5- prong pin connector on the harness side, and (5 or 6, can’t remember) slots on the motor side which accept spades on the motor. I have called several dealerships and they all have the same # listed with no alternates. Anyone run into this and have a P/N for me?? <g> Doc – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Doc, > I do remember that (guess the fingers were a little quick to respond). > You were looking for a Rear, and a wiper-motor. I offered to take a > look under the cover of the 87 wiper-motor-circuit-cover for you -but > you never responded. > Seems we never heard the outcome of those tasks. How is it comming? > Elliott > Never was looking for a wiper motor (mine works ok), just a rear-end. I’m > just going to swap out the gears in the rear-end (currently 2.73, will go to > either 4.10 or 4.56) and add a Richmond locking carrier. > Doc > > > If you mean the S-10 I did meet him. He came through with the missing > > > parts. It’s just that he lied his ass off about the condition of the > > > spare motor, and the condition of everything else. > > > There’s no restriction – I replaced the main line too. > > > Laugh all you want Doc, I don’t see you writing about building > anything. > > > Elliott > > Well, if you’d been around here for longer than a few weeks you’d know > that > > I’m restoring/building a street/strip El Camino. > > Doc
Response:
> What I’ve been told is that the modern pumps for fuel injection > generate too much heat for air cooling, so they’re in the tank for the > fuel to cool them.. (kind of scary, when you think of cooling > something with gas)
What happens when the fuel level drops below the pump? That doesn’t sound right…
Response:
"SBlackfoot" wrote > What happens when the fuel level drops below the pump? That doesn’t sound > right…
Most of the late model in tank fuel pumps sit inside of a plastic module that basically keeps the fuel pump covered with fuel right to the last drop. So even if you run the fuel level very low, the return fuel line from the injectors is dumping fuel back into that module and keeping the level of fuel around the fuel pump up over the fuel pump. Ian
Response:
> Doc, > You just said you weren’t looking for a a wiper motor and that you’rs > works OK. > Is someone out there impersinating you? Here is the post that I had > repsonded to:
Dude, that is ANCIENT history. Look at the date of the post, July 16th, 2003! Doc – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Elliott > Newsgroups: alt.autos.4×4.chevy-trucks, alt.trucks.chevy > Ok guys, I’m stuck. > The wiper circuit board on my 88′ C1500 gave up the ghost. Went to the > dealership and the part they have listed is NOT correct. There is no > part # > on my existing circuit board, just GM production numbers (22062675 and > 22062675). The part they tried to give me is a trapezoidal-shaped > board; > mine is rectangular (sorry, no digital camera) and slides into a plastic > housing which in turn plugs in to the motor itself. It has a 5- prong > pin > connector on the harness side, and (5 or 6, can’t remember) slots on the > motor side which accept spades on the motor. > I have called several dealerships and they all have the same # listed > with > no alternates. > Anyone run into this and have a P/N for me?? <g> > Doc
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > Doc, > > I do remember that (guess the fingers were a little quick to respond). > > You were looking for a Rear, and a wiper-motor. I offered to take a > > look under the cover of the 87 wiper-motor-circuit-cover for you -but > > you never responded. > > Seems we never heard the outcome of those tasks. How is it comming? > > Elliott > Never was looking for a wiper motor (mine works ok), just a rear-end. I’m > just going to swap out the gears in the rear-end (currently 2.73, will go to > either 4.10 or 4.56) and add a Richmond locking carrier. > Doc > > > > If you mean the S-10 I did meet him. He came through with the missing > > > > parts. It’s just that he lied his ass off about the condition of the > > > > spare motor, and the condition of everything else. > > > > There’s no restriction – I replaced the main line too. > > > > Laugh all you want Doc, I don’t see you writing about building > anything. > > > > Elliott > > > Well, if you’d been around here for longer than a few weeks you’d know > that > > > I’m restoring/building a street/strip El Camino. > > > Doc
Response:
Thanks Timo, but no it’s a keyed connector. My best hopes for it are that the ground sucks or that the power going to the relay is not so good. Seems the computer-sourced voltages are erratic too (thus I’m suspicious of the computer) – it’s getting more and more tempting to just swap the manifold and go with the carborated intake that I have – and the mechanical pump with that. Elliott – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Any chanche you have + and – reversed so the pump is running backwards, > pumping the fuel into the tank? Just a thought. > Timo > Well I’m on my 2nd replacement pump and I can still hear it but nothing > is coming > through the brand-new line. Been studying the schematics – but they’re > a long way from complete in the Haynes book. One thing it did > illuminate (shoulda > figured it anyway) is that the 2 wire connector has 1 wire for the > pump’s > power and 1 for the fuel gage. Both referenced to GND. With all the > rust > on the collar that holds the pump into the tank, and the kludged wire > that > was there it’s a wonder it’s getting enough juice to even make noise. > It probably would be worth draining & dropping the tank again and > soldering > the gnd wire on this time. Meanwhile, I’m wondering if the Computer is > fried. > The PNK wire going to the coil is sometimes live and sometimes dead. > When > live it will start via staring fluid or carb cleaner. When not, I can > force > it hot and do the same. Still I think it comes from the distributor and > the > module is fed by the PCM. Thus I wonder if the PCM is alive or dead – > and am > wondering how I can isolate and test various parts of these systems. > One place to start seems the "fuel pump prime" and the gnd on the tank. > PS: Thank God for Jack stands. When I was getting it down from the > highest jack stand setting, the wood-block on top of the jack (needed > for > the height) flipped out and the truck was caught by the Jack Stand (then > on > it’s lowest setting). I wasn’t under it – but it woulda sucked having > the > jack through the floor and the front wheel’s dust cover and rotor on the > ground. > Elliott >>I think that they’re more for performance applications where you would use a >>fuel cell or a custom tank. >>nospam >>>How do you get the fuel out of the tank? The factory pump will block the >>>fuel flow going through it if you just try to draw through it. >>>– >>>Steve >>>>I see after market electric pumps at my auto store that can be mounted >>>>back by the tank, but not inside, and also one that can be firewall >>>>mounted to pull all the way from the tank. Is there a reason nobody >>>>seems to go this route rather than the expensive in-tank OEM pumps? >>>>(Yes, the pumps in question are made for fuel injection.) >>>—–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– >>>http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! >>>—–== Over 100,000 Newsgroups – 19 Different Servers! =—–
Response:
>I see after market electric pumps at my auto store that can be mounted >back by the tank, but not inside, and also one that can be firewall >mounted to pull all the way from the tank. Is there a reason nobody >seems to go this route rather than the expensive in-tank OEM pumps? >(Yes, the pumps in question are made for fuel injection.)
What I’ve been told is that the modern pumps for fuel injection generate too much heat for air cooling, so they’re in the tank for the fuel to cool them.. (kind of scary, when you think of cooling something with gas) May or may not be true, I know i’ve replaced several fuel pumps on older carb engines with firewall mount electric pumps and used an adapter plate over the old fuel pump mount on the block.. those days might be long gone, though.. Mac
Response:
> Doc, > I do remember that (guess the fingers were a little quick to respond). > You were looking for a Rear, and a wiper-motor. I offered to take a > look under the cover of the 87 wiper-motor-circuit-cover for you -but > you never responded. > Seems we never heard the outcome of those tasks. How is it comming? > Elliott
Never was looking for a wiper motor (mine works ok), just a rear-end. I’m just going to swap out the gears in the rear-end (currently 2.73, will go to either 4.10 or 4.56) and add a Richmond locking carrier. Doc
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > If you mean the S-10 I did meet him. He came through with the missing > > parts. It’s just that he lied his ass off about the condition of the > > spare motor, and the condition of everything else. > > There’s no restriction – I replaced the main line too. > > Laugh all you want Doc, I don’t see you writing about building anything. > > Elliott > Well, if you’d been around here for longer than a few weeks you’d know that > I’m restoring/building a street/strip El Camino. > Doc
Response:
Any chanche you have + and – reversed so the pump is running backwards, pumping the fuel into the tank? Just a thought. Timo – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Well I’m on my 2nd replacement pump and I can still hear it but nothing > is coming > through the brand-new line. Been studying the schematics – but they’re > a long way from complete in the Haynes book. One thing it did > illuminate (shoulda > figured it anyway) is that the 2 wire connector has 1 wire for the > pump’s > power and 1 for the fuel gage. Both referenced to GND. With all the > rust > on the collar that holds the pump into the tank, and the kludged wire > that > was there it’s a wonder it’s getting enough juice to even make noise. > It probably would be worth draining & dropping the tank again and > soldering > the gnd wire on this time. Meanwhile, I’m wondering if the Computer is > fried. > The PNK wire going to the coil is sometimes live and sometimes dead. > When > live it will start via staring fluid or carb cleaner. When not, I can > force > it hot and do the same. Still I think it comes from the distributor and > the > module is fed by the PCM. Thus I wonder if the PCM is alive or dead – > and am > wondering how I can isolate and test various parts of these systems. > One place to start seems the "fuel pump prime" and the gnd on the tank. > PS: Thank God for Jack stands. When I was getting it down from the > highest jack stand setting, the wood-block on top of the jack (needed > for > the height) flipped out and the truck was caught by the Jack Stand (then > on > it’s lowest setting). I wasn’t under it – but it woulda sucked having > the > jack through the floor and the front wheel’s dust cover and rotor on the > ground. > Elliott >I think that they’re more for performance applications where you would use a >fuel cell or a custom tank. >nospam >>How do you get the fuel out of the tank? The factory pump will block the >>fuel flow going through it if you just try to draw through it. >>– >>Steve >>>I see after market electric pumps at my auto store that can be mounted >>>back by the tank, but not inside, and also one that can be firewall >>>mounted to pull all the way from the tank. Is there a reason nobody >>>seems to go this route rather than the expensive in-tank OEM pumps? >>>(Yes, the pumps in question are made for fuel injection.) >>—–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– >>http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! >>—–== Over 100,000 Newsgroups – 19 Different Servers! =—–
Response:
Much better pete. I know you have plenty to contribute, and I want to read your posts – but having to memorize the last sentence of the previous post was becoming annoying. Thank you. ~KJ~
a fuel pump will draw through the factory in-tank one if you choose to leave it in the tank -Pete Re: Electric fuel pumps suck. How do you get the fuel out of the tank? The factory pump will block the fuel flow going through it if you just try to draw through it. — Steve
I see after market electric pumps at my auto store that can be mounted back by the tank, but not inside, and also one that can be firewall mounted to pull all the way from the tank. Is there a reason nobody seems to go this route rather than the expensive in-tank OEM pumps? (Yes, the pumps in question are made for fuel injection.) —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–== Over 100,000 Newsgroups – 19 Different Servers! =—–
Response:
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Any chance Adv-auto would have a drill-in drain for a gas-tank? > Going to change the fuel pump again tomarrow… > Changed it yesterday since it didn’t have enough > pressure to pump above the fuel filter (pumped that far ok). > That was great until I found out this a.m. that it never shut > off last night (wiring problem), and it had a pin-hole-leak > (stink in the drive-way) under the driver’s door. That > drained the battery and killed the new fuel pump. > Now there’s voltage, pump-noise, but no gas. > Going out to spend a couple hundred on dinnner, wine, and > autozooo. > Have wanted to go mechanical pump before – but learned that > they don’t build enough pressure to run TBI. If anyone knows > a trick to enhance a mechanical pump I do have one on an older > carborated motor (the same 2.8L V6 block). > Yes this is on my 87 S-10 (yea with the home-machined heads). > Seems the person I bought it from was a half-assed cludge-artist. > Wouldn’t be so annoying if when he cludged something it > was as good as the production version – but instead I wonder > how this thing ran at all. > PS: The DS in the Sonoma is doin fine! Taking it for a hundred > or so miles this evening. > Elliott
I see after market electric pumps at my auto store that can be mounted back by the tank, but not inside, and also one that can be firewall mounted to pull all the way from the tank. Is there a reason nobody seems to go this route rather than the expensive in-tank OEM pumps? (Yes, the pumps in question are made for fuel injection.)
Response:
How do you get the fuel out of the tank? The factory pump will block the fuel flow going through it if you just try to draw through it. — Steve
> I see after market electric pumps at my auto store that can be mounted > back by the tank, but not inside, and also one that can be firewall > mounted to pull all the way from the tank. Is there a reason nobody > seems to go this route rather than the expensive in-tank OEM pumps? > (Yes, the pumps in question are made for fuel injection.)
—–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–== Over 100,000 Newsgroups – 19 Different Servers! =—–
Response:
I think that they’re more for performance applications where you would use a fuel cell or a custom tank. nospam
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> How do you get the fuel out of the tank? The factory pump will block the > fuel flow going through it if you just try to draw through it. > — > Steve > I see after market electric pumps at my auto store that can be mounted > back by the tank, but not inside, and also one that can be firewall > mounted to pull all the way from the tank. Is there a reason nobody > seems to go this route rather than the expensive in-tank OEM pumps? > (Yes, the pumps in question are made for fuel injection.) > —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– > http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! > —–== Over 100,000 Newsgroups – 19 Different Servers! =—–
Response:
a fuel pump will draw through the factory in-tank one if you choose to leave it in the tank -Pete Re: Electric fuel pumps suck. How do you get the fuel out of the tank? The factory pump will block the fuel flow going through it if you just try to draw through it. — Steve
I see after market electric pumps at my auto store that can be mounted back by the tank, but not inside, and also one that can be firewall mounted to pull all the way from the tank. Is there a reason nobody seems to go this route rather than the expensive in-tank OEM pumps? (Yes, the pumps in question are made for fuel injection.) —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–== Over 100,000 Newsgroups – 19 Different Servers! =—–
Response:
Well I’m on my 2nd replacement pump and I can still hear it but nothing is coming through the brand-new line. Been studying the schematics – but they’re a long way from complete in the Haynes book. One thing it did illuminate (shoulda figured it anyway) is that the 2 wire connector has 1 wire for the pump’s power and 1 for the fuel gage. Both referenced to GND. With all the rust on the collar that holds the pump into the tank, and the kludged wire that was there it’s a wonder it’s getting enough juice to even make noise. It probably would be worth draining & dropping the tank again and soldering the gnd wire on this time. Meanwhile, I’m wondering if the Computer is fried. The PNK wire going to the coil is sometimes live and sometimes dead. When live it will start via staring fluid or carb cleaner. When not, I can force it hot and do the same. Still I think it comes from the distributor and the module is fed by the PCM. Thus I wonder if the PCM is alive or dead – and am wondering how I can isolate and test various parts of these systems. One place to start seems the "fuel pump prime" and the gnd on the tank. PS: Thank God for Jack stands. When I was getting it down from the highest jack stand setting, the wood-block on top of the jack (needed for the height) flipped out and the truck was caught by the Jack Stand (then on it’s lowest setting). I wasn’t under it – but it woulda sucked having the jack through the floor and the front wheel’s dust cover and rotor on the ground. Elliott – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I think that they’re more for performance applications where you would use a > fuel cell or a custom tank. > nospam > How do you get the fuel out of the tank? The factory pump will block the > fuel flow going through it if you just try to draw through it. > — > Steve > > I see after market electric pumps at my auto store that can be mounted > > back by the tank, but not inside, and also one that can be firewall > > mounted to pull all the way from the tank. Is there a reason nobody > > seems to go this route rather than the expensive in-tank OEM pumps? > > (Yes, the pumps in question are made for fuel injection.) > —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– > http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! > —–== Over 100,000 Newsgroups – 19 Different Servers! =—–
Response:
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Any chance Adv-auto would have a drill-in drain for a gas-tank? > Going to change the fuel pump again tomarrow… > Changed it yesterday since it didn’t have enough > pressure to pump above the fuel filter (pumped that far ok). > That was great until I found out this a.m. that it never shut > off last night (wiring problem), and it had a pin-hole-leak > (stink in the drive-way) under the driver’s door. That > drained the battery and killed the new fuel pump. > Now there’s voltage, pump-noise, but no gas. > Going out to spend a couple hundred on dinnner, wine, and > autozooo. > Have wanted to go mechanical pump before – but learned that > they don’t build enough pressure to run TBI. If anyone knows > a trick to enhance a mechanical pump I do have one on an older > carborated motor (the same 2.8L V6 block). > Yes this is on my 87 S-10 (yea with the home-machined heads). > Seems the person I bought it from was a half-assed cludge-artist. > Wouldn’t be so annoying if when he cludged something it > was as good as the production version – but instead I wonder > how this thing ran at all. > PS: The DS in the Sonoma is doin fine! Taking it for a hundred > or so miles this evening. > Elliott
Any chance it just ran out of gas? Pump on all night, pinhole leak… I would assume the fuel pump relay is stuck closed… Al
Response:
Doc, I do remember that (guess the fingers were a little quick to respond). You were looking for a Rear, and a wiper-motor. I offered to take a look under the cover of the 87 wiper-motor-circuit-cover for you -but you never responded. Seems we never heard the outcome of those tasks. How is it comming? Elliott – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> If you mean the S-10 I did meet him. He came through with the missing > parts. It’s just that he lied his ass off about the condition of the > spare motor, and the condition of everything else. > There’s no restriction – I replaced the main line too. > Laugh all you want Doc, I don’t see you writing about building anything. > Elliott > Well, if you’d been around here for longer than a few weeks you’d know that > I’m restoring/building a street/strip El Camino. > Doc
Response:
It ran pretty low on Gas that night – but has since received a few gallans. I’m siphoning them out again now so I can pull the tank again. The realay seemed possible but I can hear the pump pumping and there’s still no gas getting through. Elliott – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Any chance Adv-auto would have a drill-in drain for a gas-tank? > Going to change the fuel pump again tomarrow… > Changed it yesterday since it didn’t have enough > pressure to pump above the fuel filter (pumped that far ok). > That was great until I found out this a.m. that it never shut > off last night (wiring problem), and it had a pin-hole-leak > (stink in the drive-way) under the driver’s door. That > drained the battery and killed the new fuel pump. > Now there’s voltage, pump-noise, but no gas. > Going out to spend a couple hundred on dinnner, wine, and > autozooo. > Have wanted to go mechanical pump before – but learned that > they don’t build enough pressure to run TBI. If anyone knows > a trick to enhance a mechanical pump I do have one on an older > carborated motor (the same 2.8L V6 block). > Yes this is on my 87 S-10 (yea with the home-machined heads). > Seems the person I bought it from was a half-assed cludge-artist. > Wouldn’t be so annoying if when he cludged something it > was as good as the production version – but instead I wonder > how this thing ran at all. > PS: The DS in the Sonoma is doin fine! Taking it for a hundred > or so miles this evening. > Elliott > Any chance it just ran out of gas? Pump on all night, pinhole leak… I > would assume the fuel pump relay is stuck closed… > Al
Response:
> If you mean the S-10 I did meet him. He came through with the missing > parts. It’s just that he lied his ass off about the condition of the > spare motor, and the condition of everything else. > There’s no restriction – I replaced the main line too. > Laugh all you want Doc, I don’t see you writing about building anything. > Elliott
Well, if you’d been around here for longer than a few weeks you’d know that I’m restoring/building a street/strip El Camino. Doc
Response:
"Seems the person I bought it from was a half-assed cludge-artist." Now wouldn’t you like to meet the seller??? hhaaa ha ha ha ha ha nospam
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Any chance Adv-auto would have a drill-in drain for a gas-tank? > Going to change the fuel pump again tomarrow… > Changed it yesterday since it didn’t have enough > pressure to pump above the fuel filter (pumped that far ok). > That was great until I found out this a.m. that it never shut > off last night (wiring problem), and it had a pin-hole-leak > (stink in the drive-way) under the driver’s door. That > drained the battery and killed the new fuel pump. > Now there’s voltage, pump-noise, but no gas. > Going out to spend a couple hundred on dinnner, wine, and > autozooo. > Have wanted to go mechanical pump before – but learned that > they don’t build enough pressure to run TBI. If anyone knows > a trick to enhance a mechanical pump I do have one on an older > carborated motor (the same 2.8L V6 block). > Yes this is on my 87 S-10 (yea with the home-machined heads). > Seems the person I bought it from was a half-assed cludge-artist. > Wouldn’t be so annoying if when he cludged something it > was as good as the production version – but instead I wonder > how this thing ran at all. > PS: The DS in the Sonoma is doin fine! Taking it for a hundred > or so miles this evening. > Elliott > Bwahahahahahaha! > Doc
Response:
If you mean the S-10 I did meet him. He came through with the missing parts. It’s just that he lied his ass off about the condition of the spare motor, and the condition of everything else. There’s no restriction – I replaced the main line too. Laugh all you want Doc, I don’t see you writing about building anything. Elliott – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > "Seems the person I bought it from was a half-assed cludge-artist." > Now wouldn’t you like to meet the seller??? > hhaaa ha ha ha ha ha > nospam > > Any chance Adv-auto would have a drill-in drain for a gas-tank? > > Going to change the fuel pump again tomarrow… > > Changed it yesterday since it didn’t have enough > > pressure to pump above the fuel filter (pumped that far ok). > > That was great until I found out this a.m. that it never shut > > off last night (wiring problem), and it had a pin-hole-leak > > (stink in the drive-way) under the driver’s door. That > > drained the battery and killed the new fuel pump. > > Now there’s voltage, pump-noise, but no gas. > > Going out to spend a couple hundred on dinnner, wine, and > > autozooo. > > Have wanted to go mechanical pump before – but learned that > > they don’t build enough pressure to run TBI. If anyone knows > > a trick to enhance a mechanical pump I do have one on an older > > carborated motor (the same 2.8L V6 block). > > Yes this is on my 87 S-10 (yea with the home-machined heads). > > Seems the person I bought it from was a half-assed cludge-artist. > > Wouldn’t be so annoying if when he cludged something it > > was as good as the production version – but instead I wonder > > how this thing ran at all. > > PS: The DS in the Sonoma is doin fine! Taking it for a hundred > > or so miles this evening. > > Elliott > Bwahahahahahaha! > Doc
Response:
> Any chance Adv-auto would have a drill-in drain for a gas-tank? > Going to change the fuel pump again tomarrow… > Changed it yesterday since it didn’t have enough > pressure to pump above the fuel filter (pumped that far ok). > That was great until I found out this a.m. that it never shut > off last night (wiring problem), and it had a pin-hole-leak > (stink in the drive-way) under the driver’s door. That > drained the battery and killed the new fuel pump. > Now there’s voltage, pump-noise, but no gas. > Going out to spend a couple hundred on dinnner, wine, and > autozooo.
Did you run the car last night after you changed the pump? I sounds like you may have a restriction past the filter. Did you pull the filter to make sure it really isn’t pumping.
Response:
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Any chance Adv-auto would have a drill-in drain for a gas-tank? > Going to change the fuel pump again tomarrow… > Changed it yesterday since it didn’t have enough > pressure to pump above the fuel filter (pumped that far ok). > That was great until I found out this a.m. that it never shut > off last night (wiring problem), and it had a pin-hole-leak > (stink in the drive-way) under the driver’s door. That > drained the battery and killed the new fuel pump. > Now there’s voltage, pump-noise, but no gas. > Going out to spend a couple hundred on dinnner, wine, and > autozooo. > Have wanted to go mechanical pump before – but learned that > they don’t build enough pressure to run TBI. If anyone knows > a trick to enhance a mechanical pump I do have one on an older > carborated motor (the same 2.8L V6 block). > Yes this is on my 87 S-10 (yea with the home-machined heads). > Seems the person I bought it from was a half-assed cludge-artist. > Wouldn’t be so annoying if when he cludged something it > was as good as the production version – but instead I wonder > how this thing ran at all. > PS: The DS in the Sonoma is doin fine! Taking it for a hundred > or so miles this evening. > Elliott
Bwahahahahahaha! Doc
Response:
Any chance Adv-auto would have a drill-in drain for a gas-tank? Going to change the fuel pump again tomarrow… Changed it yesterday since it didn’t have enough pressure to pump above the fuel filter (pumped that far ok). That was great until I found out this a.m. that it never shut off last night (wiring problem), and it had a pin-hole-leak (stink in the drive-way) under the driver’s door. That drained the battery and killed the new fuel pump. Now there’s voltage, pump-noise, but no gas. Going out to spend a couple hundred on dinnner, wine, and autozooo. Have wanted to go mechanical pump before – but learned that they don’t build enough pressure to run TBI. If anyone knows a trick to enhance a mechanical pump I do have one on an older carborated motor (the same 2.8L V6 block). Yes this is on my 87 S-10 (yea with the home-machined heads). Seems the person I bought it from was a half-assed cludge-artist. Wouldn’t be so annoying if when he cludged something it was as good as the production version – but instead I wonder how this thing ran at all. PS: The DS in the Sonoma is doin fine! Taking it for a hundred or so miles this evening. Elliott