> Is there any way to take passport pictures with a normal 35mm camera > and avoid paying the high fees of getting the pictures taken somewhere > else?

The only drawback of doing so is that the pictures might actually look like you. Colin Bignell

Response:

> Is there any way to take passport pictures with a normal 35mm camera > and avoid paying the high fees of getting the pictures taken somewhere > else?

Sure.  Just read the requirements, i.e. 2 x 2, full front, etc. I recently did my own passport-type photos for a visa to India using a digital camera, my computer and my color printer.  Worked fine.

Response:

> Is there any way to take passport pictures with a normal 35mm camera > and avoid paying the high fees of getting the pictures taken somewhere > else? > If you are in  the UK there are guidelines on the website for using your own > digital camera, but nothing about standard 35mm I suspect the quality would > not be good enough.

35mm negatives or slides far exceed the quality of any consumer digital still camera (and virtually all of the professional ones. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Jay

Response:

:> If you are in  the UK there are guidelines on the website for using your : own :> digital camera, but nothing about standard 35mm I suspect the quality : would :> not be good enough. : Huh? On average you’ll get a much better quality image from a traditional : camera than you will from a digital camera. Assuming decent paper, the print from $100 HP or Epson color printer and any modern digital camera will beat the pants off your average point’n’shoot developed at Walmart.  The primary stumbling block for digital photography remains lack of resolution, but this is only an issue if you’re planning on printing something bigger than A4, and certainly doesn’t apply to passport photos! ObURL: http://www.photo.net/photodb/user?user_id=185755 Cheers, — Jani Patokallio  >O._,  Olen turvassa tekniikan ymp

A waterproof throw away is not made for deep diving. Bright day with clear water, maybe 15 feet. As most snorkel divers stay within 10 feet of the surface, it will do. Anything deeper and a flash is needed. I don’t know if the throw aways offer this. Dive shops have pro rigs for rent, but you would have to go through several rolls of film to get the feel for it. Most of us know if it’s to dark to take a photo around the house. Go by that rule, IF THE WATER IS CLEAR… "Anything that doesn’t kill you,,,,,,,just hurts a hell of a lot" JLP20

Response:

If it matters, looked at a couple of throw away underwater cameras. They state they are to be used within 12 feet of the surface. I also saw a throw away underwater camera with a flash. The box says good to 75 feet, which is well within the depth most  sport divers go since lights are need for these deeper dives. The price was $20 "Anything that doesn’t kill you,,,,,,,just hurts a hell of a lot" JLP20

Response:

It is an adjustment to the PRINTING controls. At certain depths, colors are lost due to the amount of water sun light has to penetrate. I believe blues and greens are effected within a few feet of the surface. Reds and oranges start to go at five feet. I have a request with Kodak on this matter "Anything that doesn’t kill you,,,,,,,just hurts a hell of a lot" JLP20

Response:

> At certain depths, colors are >lost due to the amount of water sun light has to penetrate. I believe blues >and >greens are effected within a few feet of the surface. Reds and oranges start >to >go at five feet.

This brings up another question:  what kind of depth of field can you expect with underwater phtography, and just how much horizontal range can you expect? Daniel Allen Butler (The Hammer) The opinions expressed here are not necessarily those of the management, but they ought to be!

Response:

As long as the photo shop processes it manually, the UW color pics should be fine. I use Wolf camera and they process manually. I also tried Kodak sea processing which is better than regular pharmacy shop but not as good as wolf camera. If you have have a scanner yourself and the photo shop processes manaully, definitely don’t need Kodak sea processing. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Shorty before our recent voyage on the Century (Dec 29, 2001 to Jan 5, > 2002), we purchased a Sea Life (Inc.)  Reef Master (model) underwater > camera. At the suggestion of the owner of the Dive Shop in Fort > Lauderdale where we purchased it, we also requested that the > photographs be enhanced when we had them processed by our local camera > shop (Best Photo). We just got the shots back today, and they are > truly incredible–colors much more life like and without the "blue > wash" that seems to cloud up previous underwater shots, especially > those from disposable underwater cameras. Processing was expensive > ($90 for 5 rolls of film), but the pictures we got back are really > worth it!  We are wondering if anyone else has had a similar > experience, and if so is there a cheaper camera shop that one might > try for processing? > Cheers, > PegNDerek > "Scientists’ say intelligent life > sprang from the sea. > Really intelligent life returns to > the sea now and then."

Response:

>what is enhanced developing?

Bust exercises, maybe….? Daniel Allen Butler (The Hammer) The opinions expressed here are not necessarily those of the management, but they ought to be!

Response:

>>what is enhanced developing? >Bust exercises, maybe….?

Judging by my spam mail, I wouldn’t say  enhancements are limited to just a female activity… Amber

Response:

>what is enhanced developing? > Sheree, > Enhanced developing filters out the blue spectrum, effectively adding back in > the colors which water begins to eliminate.  Think of a rainbow: the red, > orange and yellow colors are on the inside of the rainbow because those colors > have the shortest wave lengths.  Only the longer waves can penetrate very far > into water, hence everything begins to look green, blue and even purple.

Whoa, hold on a ’sec.  First, I doubt whether any changes were made when developing the film.  There’s no such thing as "enhanced developing," per se, and it’s next to impossible to alter the color sensitivity of film at the development stage. The photo shop probably interpretted the request as meaning to set the color correction manually when printing the negatives, rather than relying on the machine printer’s automation. > Sometimes, this special processing is called E-6.

E-6 refers to reversal processing for Ektachrome and similar emulsions, i.e. slides. Print film uses the C-41 process.  Unless you shot slides, your film was not processed in E-6 chemistry. Your description of why color rendition suffers underwater is correct, but, forgive the pun, you’re "all wet" about film development. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Many dive shops are set up > for it, or can tell you where to get it at the best price.  It is more > expensive, but the pics often come back even prettier than you remember seeing > it in the first place (unless you were using a dive light). > Amber

Response:

what is enhanced developing? I have a minolta underwater camera and notice how hazy blue the pics come out. the underwater disposable seems to do a better job! — Sheree

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Shorty before our recent voyage on the Century (Dec 29, 2001 to Jan 5, > 2002), we purchased a Sea Life (Inc.)  Reef Master (model) underwater > camera. At the suggestion of the owner of the Dive Shop in Fort > Lauderdale where we purchased it, we also requested that the > photographs be enhanced when we had them processed by our local camera > shop (Best Photo). We just got the shots back today, and they are > truly incredible–colors much more life like and without the "blue > wash" that seems to cloud up previous underwater shots, especially > those from disposable underwater cameras. Processing was expensive > ($90 for 5 rolls of film), but the pictures we got back are really > worth it!  We are wondering if anyone else has had a similar > experience, and if so is there a cheaper camera shop that one might > try for processing? > Cheers, > PegNDerek > "Scientists’ say intelligent life > sprang from the sea. > Really intelligent life returns to > the sea now and then."

Response:

>Processing was expensive >($90 for 5 rolls of film)

I assume you used 36 exposure rolls. If so, you got a OK deal. Any time you ask for special processing the price goes up. "Anything that doesn’t kill you,,,,,,,just hurts a hell of a lot" JLP20

Response:

>what is enhanced developing?

Sheree, Enhanced developing filters out the blue spectrum, effectively adding back in the colors which water begins to eliminate.  Think of a rainbow: the red, orange and yellow colors are on the inside of the rainbow because those colors have the shortest wave lengths.  Only the longer waves can penetrate very far into water, hence everything begins to look green, blue and even purple. Sometimes, this special processing is called E-6.  Many dive shops are set up for it, or can tell you where to get it at the best price.  It is more expensive, but the pics often come back even prettier than you remember seeing it in the first place (unless you were using a dive light). Amber

Response:

I discovered Kodak Sea Processing at a local dive shop before our last Caribbean snorkeling cruise. I’ve only been able to find access to this Kodak processing at dive shops, but now it may be available at other places, too. It’s a truly dramatic improvement in underwater photography or snaps with any 35mm film. You’ve got to see it to believe it. It’s more expensive, but what a difference in both the above and below-water shots on the same roll of film. You can find out more about it at http://www.kodak.com/country/US/en/consumer/sea/       Enjoy!   …Karl "Sometimes you’re the windshield, sometimes you’re the bug."    – Mary-Chapin

Response:

Hello shereemcg and rtc! I just got a minolta underwater camera for christmas, but haven’t used it yet. Have used the disposables, and like the sound of the enhanced development. Have a couple of pics of a large sea turtle off Florida last summer that just doesn’t relay the excitement I had following him around for a little while – almost tough to spot in the pics While I wanted it to be able to take underwater shots while snorkeling (3 trips planned this year – 2 cruises and 1 land!), I also needed the waterproof aspect for a Grand Canyon rafting trip (yes, that’s trip #4 – highly unusual for me to do so much, 2 are freebies due to a contest win and FF miles!).   I’ve read a couple of posts on a camera board regarding reliability of the Minolta, which I’m particularly concerned about – if it conks out on the 2 week rafting trip, I’m SOL, nowhere to get a backup.  Probably going to take a spare of some sort that will have to get packed away all day due to water. Any general tips for a newbie on this camera, taking underwater shots, and general care would be most appreciated! irbgolfin – about 10 weeks to go to trip #1, 5 days in the Virgin Islands!

Response:

Kodak Sea Processing is available in pre-paid mailers. Currently, you can get it from Divers Direct for $16.99 for up to 36 prints, or one time use camera. You simply mail the film to them in the mailer, (you pay postage) the develop and mail them back with beautiful colors. (they pay return postage) You can order them online at: www.diversdirect.com Look up under online catalog, photography, sea processing mailer. They also have mountains of great snorkel and SCUBA gear at great prices. Shipping only takes 5 business days at regular rate. Pete  <~~~not a salesman, just a happy customer.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I discovered Kodak Sea Processing at a local dive shop before our last > Caribbean snorkeling cruise. I’ve only been able to find access to this > Kodak processing at dive shops, but now it may be available at other places, > too. It’s a truly dramatic improvement in underwater photography or snaps > with any 35mm film. You’ve got to see it to believe it. It’s more expensive, > but what a difference in both the above and below-water shots on the same > roll of film. You can find out more about it at > http://www.kodak.com/country/US/en/consumer/sea/       Enjoy! >   …Karl > "Sometimes you’re the windshield, sometimes you’re the bug."    – > Mary-Chapin

Response:

I wonder if this type of processing is available for the Advantix type film. Any idea?

Response:

Yes, we shot five rolls of 36 exposures film. Thanks for the tip–it’s good to know that we are not just paying for the location of the camera shop on Manhattan, NYC! Peg >Processing was expensive >($90 for 5 rolls of film) >I assume you used 36 exposure rolls. If so, you got a OK deal. Any time you ask >for special processing the price goes up.

"Scientists’ say intelligent life sprang from the sea. Really intelligent life returns to the sea now and then."

Response:

We picked up a few of these mailers when we were at the Dive Shop in Fort Lauderdale on our way home.  They seem like a good deal, but for 5 rolls of 36 exposures, it still comes out to $85, and when you add the postage on top, it is actually cheaper to have them processed locally.  Our Best Photo guys did a terrific job and we had the pictures back in 2 days! Many Tahnks Peg – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Kodak Sea Processing is available in pre-paid mailers. Currently, you can >get it from Divers Direct for $16.99 for up to 36 prints, or one time use >camera. You simply mail the film to them in the mailer, (you pay postage) >the develop and mail them back with beautiful colors. (they pay return >postage) >You can order them online at: >www.diversdirect.com >Look up under online catalog, photography, sea processing mailer. >They also have mountains of great snorkel and SCUBA gear at great prices. >Shipping only takes 5 business days at regular rate. >Pete  <~~~not a salesman, just a happy customer. > I discovered Kodak Sea Processing at a local dive shop before our last > Caribbean snorkeling cruise. I’ve only been able to find access to this > Kodak processing at dive shops, but now it may be available at other >places, > too. It’s a truly dramatic improvement in underwater photography or snaps > with any 35mm film. You’ve got to see it to believe it. It’s more >expensive, > but what a difference in both the above and below-water shots on the same > roll of film. You can find out more about it at > http://www.kodak.com/country/US/en/consumer/sea/       Enjoy! >   …Karl > "Sometimes you’re the windshield, sometimes you’re the bug."    – > Mary-Chapin

"Scientists’ say intelligent life sprang from the sea. Really intelligent life returns to the sea now and then."

Response:

the minolta has worked fine, gets stuck oncr in awhiole.  bring a disposable as backup! — Sheree

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hello shereemcg and rtc! > I just got a minolta underwater camera for christmas, but haven’t used it yet. > Have used the disposables, and like the sound of the enhanced development. > Have a couple of pics of a large sea turtle off Florida last summer that just > doesn’t relay the excitement I had following him around for a little while – > almost tough to spot in the pics > While I wanted it to be able to take underwater shots while snorkeling (3 trips > planned this year – 2 cruises and 1 land!), I also needed the waterproof aspect > for a Grand Canyon rafting trip (yes, that’s trip #4 – highly unusual for me to > do so much, 2 are freebies due to a contest win and FF miles!). > I’ve read a couple of posts on a camera board regarding reliability of the > Minolta, which I’m particularly concerned about – if it conks out on the 2 week > rafting trip, I’m SOL, nowhere to get a backup.  Probably going to take a spare > of some sort that will have to get packed away all day due to water. > Any general tips for a newbie on this camera, taking underwater shots, and > general care would be most appreciated! > irbgolfin – about 10 weeks to go to trip #1, 5 days in the Virgin Islands!

Response:

Shorty before our recent voyage on the Century (Dec 29, 2001 to Jan 5, 2002), we purchased a Sea Life (Inc.)  Reef Master (model) underwater camera. At the suggestion of the owner of the Dive Shop in Fort Lauderdale where we purchased it, we also requested that the photographs be enhanced when we had them processed by our local camera shop (Best Photo). We just got the shots back today, and they are truly incredible–colors much more life like and without the "blue wash" that seems to cloud up previous underwater shots, especially those from disposable underwater cameras. Processing was expensive ($90 for 5 rolls of film), but the pictures we got back are really worth it!  We are wondering if anyone else has had a similar experience, and if so is there a cheaper camera shop that one might try for processing? Cheers, PegNDerek "Scientists’ say intelligent life sprang from the sea. Really intelligent life returns to the sea now and then."

Response:

Shorty before our recent voyage on the Century (Dec 29, 2001 to Jan 5, 2002), we purchased a Sea Life (Inc.)  Reef Master (model) underwater camera. At the suggestion of the owner of the Dive Shop in Fort Lauderdale where we purchased it, we also requested that the photographs be enhanced when we had them processed by our local camera shop (Best Photo). We just got the shots back today, and they are truly incredible–colors much more life like and without the "blue wash" that seems to cloud up previous underwater shots, especially those from disposable underwater cameras. Processing was expensive ($90 for 5 rolls of film), but the pictures we got back are really worth it!  We are wondering if anyone else has had a similar experience, and if so is there a cheaper camera shop that one might try for processing? Cheers, PegNDerek "Scientists’ say intelligent life sprang from the sea. Really intelligent life returns to the sea now and then."

Response:

what is enhanced developing? I have a minolta underwater camera and notice how hazy blue the pics come out. the underwater disposable seems to do a better job! — Sheree

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Shorty before our recent voyage on the Century (Dec 29, 2001 to Jan 5, > 2002), we purchased a Sea Life (Inc.)  Reef Master (model) underwater > camera. At the suggestion of the owner of the Dive Shop in Fort > Lauderdale where we purchased it, we also requested that the > photographs be enhanced when we had them processed by our local camera > shop (Best Photo). We just got the shots back today, and they are > truly incredible–colors much more life like and without the "blue > wash" that seems to cloud up previous underwater shots, especially > those from disposable underwater cameras. Processing was expensive > ($90 for 5 rolls of film), but the pictures we got back are really > worth it!  We are wondering if anyone else has had a similar > experience, and if so is there a cheaper camera shop that one might > try for processing? > Cheers, > PegNDerek > "Scientists’ say intelligent life > sprang from the sea. > Really intelligent life returns to > the sea now and then."

Response:

>Processing was expensive >($90 for 5 rolls of film)

I assume you used 36 exposure rolls. If so, you got a OK deal. Any time you ask for special processing the price goes up. "Anything that doesn’t kill you,,,,,,,just hurts a hell of a lot" JLP20

Response:

>what is enhanced developing?

Sheree, Enhanced developing filters out the blue spectrum, effectively adding back in the colors which water begins to eliminate.  Think of a rainbow: the red, orange and yellow colors are on the inside of the rainbow because those colors have the shortest wave lengths.  Only the longer waves can penetrate very far into water, hence everything begins to look green, blue and even purple. Sometimes, this special processing is called E-6.  Many dive shops are set up for it, or can tell you where to get it at the best price.  It is more expensive, but the pics often come back even prettier than you remember seeing it in the first place (unless you were using a dive light). Amber

Response:

I discovered Kodak Sea Processing at a local dive shop before our last Caribbean snorkeling cruise. I’ve only been able to find access to this Kodak processing at dive shops, but now it may be available at other places, too. It’s a truly dramatic improvement in underwater photography or snaps with any 35mm film. You’ve got to see it to believe it. It’s more expensive, but what a difference in both the above and below-water shots on the same roll of film. You can find out more about it at http://www.kodak.com/country/US/en/consumer/sea/       Enjoy!   …Karl "Sometimes you’re the windshield, sometimes you’re the bug."    – Mary-Chapin

Response:

Hello shereemcg and rtc! I just got a minolta underwater camera for christmas, but haven’t used it yet. Have used the disposables, and like the sound of the enhanced development. Have a couple of pics of a large sea turtle off Florida last summer that just doesn’t relay the excitement I had following him around for a little while – almost tough to spot in the pics While I wanted it to be able to take underwater shots while snorkeling (3 trips planned this year – 2 cruises and 1 land!), I also needed the waterproof aspect for a Grand Canyon rafting trip (yes, that’s trip #4 – highly unusual for me to do so much, 2 are freebies due to a contest win and FF miles!).   I’ve read a couple of posts on a camera board regarding reliability of the Minolta, which I’m particularly concerned about – if it conks out on the 2 week rafting trip, I’m SOL, nowhere to get a backup.  Probably going to take a spare of some sort that will have to get packed away all day due to water. Any general tips for a newbie on this camera, taking underwater shots, and general care would be most appreciated! irbgolfin – about 10 weeks to go to trip #1, 5 days in the Virgin Islands!

Response:

Kodak Sea Processing is available in pre-paid mailers. Currently, you can get it from Divers Direct for $16.99 for up to 36 prints, or one time use camera. You simply mail the film to them in the mailer, (you pay postage) the develop and mail them back with beautiful colors. (they pay return postage) You can order them online at: www.diversdirect.com Look up under online catalog, photography, sea processing mailer. They also have mountains of great snorkel and SCUBA gear at great prices. Shipping only takes 5 business days at regular rate. Pete  <~~~not a salesman, just a happy customer.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I discovered Kodak Sea Processing at a local dive shop before our last > Caribbean snorkeling cruise. I’ve only been able to find access to this > Kodak processing at dive shops, but now it may be available at other places, > too. It’s a truly dramatic improvement in underwater photography or snaps > with any 35mm film. You’ve got to see it to believe it. It’s more expensive, > but what a difference in both the above and below-water shots on the same > roll of film. You can find out more about it at > http://www.kodak.com/country/US/en/consumer/sea/       Enjoy! >   …Karl > "Sometimes you’re the windshield, sometimes you’re the bug."    – > Mary-Chapin

Response:

I wonder if this type of processing is available for the Advantix type film. Any idea?

Response:

Yes, we shot five rolls of 36 exposures film. Thanks for the tip–it’s good to know that we are not just paying for the location of the camera shop on Manhattan, NYC! Peg >Processing was expensive >($90 for 5 rolls of film) >I assume you used 36 exposure rolls. If so, you got a OK deal. Any time you ask >for special processing the price goes up.

"Scientists’ say intelligent life sprang from the sea. Really intelligent life returns to the sea now and then."

Response:

We picked up a few of these mailers when we were at the Dive Shop in Fort Lauderdale on our way home.  They seem like a good deal, but for 5 rolls of 36 exposures, it still comes out to $85, and when you add the postage on top, it is actually cheaper to have them processed locally.  Our Best Photo guys did a terrific job and we had the pictures back in 2 days! Many Tahnks Peg – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Kodak Sea Processing is available in pre-paid mailers. Currently, you can >get it from Divers Direct for $16.99 for up to 36 prints, or one time use >camera. You simply mail the film to them in the mailer, (you pay postage) >the develop and mail them back with beautiful colors. (they pay return >postage) >You can order them online at: >www.diversdirect.com >Look up under online catalog, photography, sea processing mailer. >They also have mountains of great snorkel and SCUBA gear at great prices. >Shipping only takes 5 business days at regular rate. >Pete  <~~~not a salesman, just a happy customer. > I discovered Kodak Sea Processing at a local dive shop before our last > Caribbean snorkeling cruise. I’ve only been able to find access to this > Kodak processing at dive shops, but now it may be available at other >places, > too. It’s a truly dramatic improvement in underwater photography or snaps > with any 35mm film. You’ve got to see it to believe it. It’s more >expensive, > but what a difference in both the above and below-water shots on the same > roll of film. You can find out more about it at > http://www.kodak.com/country/US/en/consumer/sea/       Enjoy! >   …Karl > "Sometimes you’re the windshield, sometimes you’re the bug."    – > Mary-Chapin

"Scientists’ say intelligent life sprang from the sea. Really intelligent life returns to the sea now and then."

Response:

the minolta has worked fine, gets stuck oncr in awhiole.  bring a disposable as backup! — Sheree

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hello shereemcg and rtc! > I just got a minolta underwater camera for christmas, but haven’t used it yet. > Have used the disposables, and like the sound of the enhanced development. > Have a couple of pics of a large sea turtle off Florida last summer that just > doesn’t relay the excitement I had following him around for a little while – > almost tough to spot in the pics > While I wanted it to be able to take underwater shots while snorkeling (3 trips > planned this year – 2 cruises and 1 land!), I also needed the waterproof aspect > for a Grand Canyon rafting trip (yes, that’s trip #4 – highly unusual for me to > do so much, 2 are freebies due to a contest win and FF miles!). > I’ve read a couple of posts on a camera board regarding reliability of the > Minolta, which I’m particularly concerned about – if it conks out on the 2 week > rafting trip, I’m SOL, nowhere to get a backup.  Probably going to take a spare > of some sort that will have to get packed away all day due to water. > Any general tips for a newbie on this camera, taking underwater shots, and > general care would be most appreciated! > irbgolfin – about 10 weeks to go to trip #1, 5 days in the Virgin Islands!

Response:

>what is enhanced developing? > Sheree, > Enhanced developing filters out the blue spectrum, effectively adding back in > the colors which water begins to eliminate.  Think of a rainbow: the red, > orange and yellow colors are on the inside of the rainbow because those colors > have the shortest wave lengths.  Only the longer waves can penetrate very far > into water, hence everything begins to look green, blue and even purple.

Whoa, hold on a ’sec.  First, I doubt whether any changes were made when developing the film.  There’s no such thing as "enhanced developing," per se, and it’s next to impossible to alter the color sensitivity of film at the development stage. The photo shop probably interpretted the request as meaning to set the color correction manually when printing the negatives, rather than relying on the machine printer’s automation. > Sometimes, this special processing is called E-6.

E-6 refers to reversal processing for Ektachrome and similar emulsions, i.e. slides. Print film uses the C-41 process.  Unless you shot slides, your film was not processed in E-6 chemistry. Your description of why color rendition suffers underwater is correct, but, forgive the pun, you’re "all wet" about film development. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Many dive shops are set up > for it, or can tell you where to get it at the best price.  It is more > expensive, but the pics often come back even prettier than you remember seeing > it in the first place (unless you were using a dive light). > Amber

Response:

As long as the photo shop processes it manually, the UW color pics should be fine. I use Wolf camera and they process manually. I also tried Kodak sea processing which is better than regular pharmacy shop but not as good as wolf camera. If you have have a scanner yourself and the photo shop processes manaully, definitely don’t need Kodak sea processing. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Shorty before our recent voyage on the Century (Dec 29, 2001 to Jan 5, > 2002), we purchased a Sea Life (Inc.)  Reef Master (model) underwater > camera. At the suggestion of the owner of the Dive Shop in Fort > Lauderdale where we purchased it, we also requested that the > photographs be enhanced when we had them processed by our local camera > shop (Best Photo). We just got the shots back today, and they are > truly incredible–colors much more life like and without the "blue > wash" that seems to cloud up previous underwater shots, especially > those from disposable underwater cameras. Processing was expensive > ($90 for 5 rolls of film), but the pictures we got back are really > worth it!  We are wondering if anyone else has had a similar > experience, and if so is there a cheaper camera shop that one might > try for processing? > Cheers, > PegNDerek > "Scientists’ say intelligent life > sprang from the sea. > Really intelligent life returns to > the sea now and then."

Response:

>what is enhanced developing?

Bust exercises, maybe….? Daniel Allen Butler (The Hammer) The opinions expressed here are not necessarily those of the management, but they ought to be!

Response:

>>what is enhanced developing? >Bust exercises, maybe….?

Judging by my spam mail, I wouldn’t say  enhancements are limited to just a female activity… Amber

Response:

It is an adjustment to the PRINTING controls. At certain depths, colors are lost due to the amount of water sun light has to penetrate. I believe blues and greens are effected within a few feet of the surface. Reds and oranges start to go at five feet. I have a request with Kodak on this matter "Anything that doesn’t kill you,,,,,,,just hurts a hell of a lot" JLP20

Response:

> At certain depths, colors are >lost due to the amount of water sun light has to penetrate. I believe blues >and >greens are effected within a few feet of the surface. Reds and oranges start >to >go at five feet.

This brings up another question:  what kind of depth of field can you expect with underwater phtography, and just how much horizontal range can you expect? Daniel Allen Butler (The Hammer) The opinions expressed here are not necessarily those of the management, but they ought to be!

Response:

A waterproof throw away is not made for deep diving. Bright day with clear water, maybe 15 feet. As most snorkel divers stay within 10 feet of the surface, it will do. Anything deeper and a flash is needed. I don’t know if the throw aways offer this. Dive shops have pro rigs for rent, but you would have to go through several rolls of film to get the feel for it. Most of us know if it’s to dark to take a photo around the house. Go by that rule, IF THE WATER IS CLEAR… "Anything that doesn’t kill you,,,,,,,just hurts a hell of a lot" JLP20

Response:

If it matters, looked at a couple of throw away underwater cameras. They state they are to be used within 12 feet of the surface. I also saw a throw away underwater camera with a flash. The box says good to 75 feet, which is well within the depth most  sport divers go since lights are need for these deeper dives. The price was $20 "Anything that doesn’t kill you,,,,,,,just hurts a hell of a lot" JLP20

Response:

Hello, This very hot summer I will spent two weeks in Luxor, Egypt. Could someone tell me if this is open for tourists: Red Chapel of Hatchepsut Upper terrace at Deir-el-Bahari Tomb of Senenmut The small XVIII dynasty temple at Medinet Haboe Anything else recently open or closed? Soekran.

Response:

> Hello, > This very hot summer I will spent two weeks in Luxor, Egypt. > Could someone tell me if this is open for tourists: > Red Chapel of Hatchepsut > Upper terrace at Deir-el-Bahari > Tomb of Senenmut > The small XVIII dynasty temple at Medinet Haboe > Anything else recently open or closed? > Soekran.

Sorry Marc, I clicked on the reply button instead of sending this to the group. Hello Marc. I am going on a Trafalgar 11 day ‘Best of Egypt" tour on Nov. 6th when the temperature is somewhat more moderate. I am really looking forward to this. Item a), b) and d) are on the itinerary, not sure about c). As this tour runs year round every Wednesday starting in Cairo the above locations must be open year round. Like everyone else you want to take lots of pictures, and most museums  do not  allow  flashes so you have 2 choices Camcorder or high speed colour film. Lots of places charge a small fee for cameras but a significantly large fee for camcorders. I think a camera is better for inanimate objects. Fujifilm came out with their high-speed Superia ISO 1600 35mm film this spring, about $9.50 per roll of 36, somewhat hard to get, as most big box stores do not carry it. Here is a list of some of the camera fees for some of the locations. Here is some up to date information on camera and video fees in Egypt: In the Egyptian Museum: Camera fee w/o flash is le10; video camera is le100 (le is Egyptian pound…about 26 or 27 cents U.S.). Saqquara: Camera is le5; video is le25. Valley of Kings: camera (no flash) is le5 per tomb and no video cameras are allowed. Memphis: camera is le5; video is le25. Aswan Dam: No video allowed. Giza/Solar Boat: camera is le10; video is le100. That is 100 for video! Ouch! NO charge for cameras or video at: Citadel of Sultan Salah El Din, Giza (outside), Luxor Temple, Karnack Temple, Temple of Queen Hatshepsut, Temple of Edfu/Horus,Kom Ombo Temple and most other places including on your Nile cruiser. Advice:Buy your film before you leave for your tour. Do not buy film from street vendors. Hope this helps Karl Please feel free to email me privately, I love to hear your comments and experiences when you return.

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> I am going on a Trafalgar 11 day ‘Best of Egypt" tour on Nov. 6th when the > temperature is somewhat > more moderate. I am really looking forward to this.

Me too. We are travelling with Exodus Travel from October 4-13 visiting most of the same places. Thanks for the tips on film and camera fees. I knew there was no flash allowed in some sites. Once we all get back we’ll have to set up our websites and compare notes. Cheers, Trevor

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I am going on a Trafalgar 11 day ‘Best of Egypt" tour on Nov. 6th when the > temperature is somewhat > more moderate. I am really looking forward to this. > Me too. We are travelling with Exodus Travel from October 4-13 visiting > most of the same places. Thanks for the tips on film and camera fees. I > knew there was no flash allowed in some sites. > Once we all get back we’ll have to set up our websites and compare notes. > Cheers, > Trevor

Trevor I am looking forward to read about you impressions of the trip. You might want to check this web page: http://home.hccnet.nl/h.vd.heuvel/engels/travelogue/diaries/diary12.html Two Dutch guys took a tour with ‘Spring tours’ similar itinerary but in reverse. They went to Aswan first and boarded the MS Miriam on her return tour to Cairo. Must have been a cheaper tour, as they had to pay for their meals on board. Don’t let some of the negative comments discourage you, I spoke to several people, they absolutely loved it and had no bad experiences with local drivers. If you have not already done so, check out the Trafalgar Bulletin Board at: http://www.trafbb.com/cgi/ubb/Ultimate.cgi?action=intro You have to sign in once,  but is well worth it, lot of good stuff and messages. Karl

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I was there in Oct. It is a wonderful trip and very safe. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hello, > This very hot summer I will spent two weeks in Luxor, Egypt. > Could someone tell me if this is open for tourists: > Red Chapel of Hatchepsut > Upper terrace at Deir-el-Bahari > Tomb of Senenmut > The small XVIII dynasty temple at Medinet Haboe > Anything else recently open or closed? > Soekran.

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Carry it with you.  All of it.  A regular X-Ray machine (the one next to the metal detector) won’t hurt it (as long as it’s below ISO 1000), but if you’re really paranoid, you can ask for it to be hand inspected.  If you want the hand inspection, take all the film out of the canisters and put it in a clear plastic bag.  Under no circumstances should you put it in checked luggage.  If you happen to wind up on the angry side of one of the new, powerful scanners, you run the risk of having a 4mm band of fogged film.  Developed film is fine to be checked. Matthew [who managed to fit 70 rolls of film into his carry-on when he went to Israel] – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Visiting the UK very soon …..from Australia…….Any precautions to take > through the airports with regard to unprocessed 35mm film & 8mm cam tape? > With regards Ian S

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Visiting the UK very soon …..from Australia…….Any precautions to take through the airports with regard to unprocessed 35mm film & 8mm cam tape? With regards Ian S

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posted: >"CyberSpiff"  wrote > As I am starting to look at buying a digital camera I was wondering > what people are using out there…. >This is eerie. I was going to post something very similar tonight, as >I want to buy one prior to going to Philly to meet the others next >week, and wanted something good to record the meeting with. >It’s been established that, collectively, AS3 knows….EVERYTHING! >So, again: Anybody use these things and have a recommendation for a >decently-featured, dependable, easy-to-use model that doesn’t cost an >arm and a leg? Gotta have one within a few days…..

Like someone else said, you gotta pay for what you want.  Cameras have been slower to come down in price than I would have liked but there are some very good models out there at $600 – $800.  I recently came into possession of an Olympus 3000 and just love it. When looking at the price, realize that you are going to be able to stop buying film and paying for developing.  I’ve had my camera for three months now and have taken nearly a thousand pics with it.  I would never have been able to afford that with a 35mm. The PC Mag site lets you do some price comparison shopping and I also like and use http://www.pricescan.com/   Good luck and let us know what you get. Mike

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I’ve gone through many digital camera’s, and have a few thoughts. I guess it mostly depends on what you want to do with it… For "point and shoot" camera’s the Olympus and Kodak are pretty good.  The flash card image storage is best for reliability and convenience, giving Kodak an edge.  Olympus has better image quaility. If you are "serious" about a digital, Nikon has two really great cameras. The 990 is small and operates well as a point and shoot, or does a good job of acting like a 35 mm SLR camera.  Having 3.34 megapixels, it competes favorably with 35mm film, with the exception of having 8 bits per color and therefore less "forgiveness" in exposure latitude.  Those are 8 "real" bits though, and the quaility is great.  It cost $1,000.00 without the goodies, and there are lots of goodies… The top of the line is the Nikon DS1.  It’s a 12bit digital in a 35mm camera body.  Great shots!  But, at a price of $8,000 (camera body only), it doesn’t seem prudent to buy one at this time.  Interestingly, technology is changing so quickly, the little Nikon 990 is superior to the DS1 in many respects. Lots of serious camera users are electing to stay with their film cameras, and spend their money on a good scanner, buying only a point and shoot digital or a 990 to satisfy thier digital needs.  Seems like a good idea to me and I’m going to wait a while before going for anything better than my 990. Hope this helps, Joe – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > "CyberSpiff"  wrote > As I am starting to look at buying a digital camera I was wondering > what people are using out there…. > This is eerie. I was going to post something very similar tonight, as > I want to buy one prior to going to Philly to meet the others next > week, and wanted something good to record the meeting with. > It’s been established that, collectively, AS3 knows….EVERYTHING! > So, again: Anybody use these things and have a recommendation for a > decently-featured, dependable, easy-to-use model that doesn’t cost an > arm and a leg? Gotta have one within a few days….. > Thanks– > Jef.

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Hi Jef I’m using a Nikon Coolpix 900 which doesn’t (now) cost an arm and a leg.  Maybe just a leg. USB Card Reader and four sets of rechargeable NIMH AA batteries keep that sucker running.  God, it’s a battery hog!  As most digicams are. Mel mentioned the AC adapter which was a must for me until I bought the card reader.  Was slow transferring the pics thru the serial port prior to that, so the adapter was a must for me. Licking my chops at getting a Coolpix 990.  It’ll be paid for with smokefree funds, of course .  Still a bit expensive at 800+.  Early November, I’m thinking. Good luck with whatever you decide! Lee 2 m 26 d 17 h smoke-free $664.63 saved 5317 cigarettes not smoked— 18 d 11 h life saved ICQ  83708482 AIM Nick is Houndhockey – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > "CyberSpiff"  wrote > As I am starting to look at buying a digital camera I was wondering > what people are using out there…. > This is eerie. I was going to post something very similar tonight, as > I want to buy one prior to going to Philly to meet the others next > week, and wanted something good to record the meeting with. > It’s been established that, collectively, AS3 knows….EVERYTHING! > So, again: Anybody use these things and have a recommendation for a > decently-featured, dependable, easy-to-use model that doesn’t cost an > arm and a leg? Gotta have one within a few days….. > Thanks– > Jef.

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I got rechargeable batteries for mine, still haven’t got the AC adapter Mel         The only difference between stumbling blocks and stepping stones     is the way you use them.   — American Proverb Three months, one week, five days, 15 hours, 44 minutes and 55 seconds. 2616 cigarettes not smoked, saving $417.31. Life saved: 1 week, 2 days, 2 hours, 0 minutes.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I hope I emphasized the AC adapter enough. > GettheACadapter!!GettheACadapter!!GettheACadapter!! > GettheACadapter!!GettheACadapter!!GettheACadapter!! > GettheACadapter!!GettheACadapter!!GettheACadapter!! > GettheACadapter!!GettheACadapter!!GettheACadapter!! > GettheACadapter!!GettheACadapter!!GettheACadapter!! > GettheACadapter!!GettheACadapter!!GettheACadapter!! > GettheACadapter!!GettheACadapter!!GettheACadapter!! > GettheACadapter!!GettheACadapter!!GettheACadapter!! > On my camera, downloading pictures to my computer really uses up the battery > power. > — > Les Stewart > Beaumont, TX – take out n a e s p a m to email > Five months, one week, one day, 18 hours, 38 minutes and 4 seconds. 8088 > cigarettes not smoked, saving $1,213.32. Life saved: 4 weeks, 2 hours, 0 > minutes.

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"Jef."  wrote > Off to hunt for cameras…. > Jef.

I hope I emphasized the AC adapter enough. GettheACadapter!!GettheACadapter!!GettheACadapter!! GettheACadapter!!GettheACadapter!!GettheACadapter!! GettheACadapter!!GettheACadapter!!GettheACadapter!! GettheACadapter!!GettheACadapter!!GettheACadapter!! GettheACadapter!!GettheACadapter!!GettheACadapter!! GettheACadapter!!GettheACadapter!!GettheACadapter!! GettheACadapter!!GettheACadapter!!GettheACadapter!! GettheACadapter!!GettheACadapter!!GettheACadapter!! On my camera, downloading pictures to my computer really uses up the battery power. — Les Stewart Beaumont, TX – take out n a e s p a m to email Five months, one week, one day, 18 hours, 38 minutes and 4 seconds. 8088 cigarettes not smoked, saving $1,213.32. Life saved: 4 weeks, 2 hours, 0 minutes.

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GADS ain’t that the truth LES! Bren One month, four weeks, one day, 15 hours, 9 minutes and 50 seconds. 909 cigarettes not smoked, saving $130.51. Life saved: 3 days, 3 hours, 45 minutes.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> "Jef." wrote > What a wealth of good info! I really appreciate it. This group of > folks is amazing, I tell you. Let’s turn our collective energies next > Jef. > Best be careful! With the way me and some others are munchin’ our way > through our quit, we may be the CAUSE of world hunger. > — > Les Stewart > Beaumont, TX – take out n a e s p a m to email > Five months, one week, one day, 18 hours, 16 minutes and 10 seconds. 8088 > cigarettes not smoked, saving $1,213.21. Life saved: 4 weeks, 2 hours, 0 > minutes.

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Can’t talk now! Must eat! — Les Stewart Beaumont, TX – take out n a e s p a m to email Five months, one week, one day, 21 hours, 34 minutes and 27 seconds. 8094 cigarettes not smoked, saving $1,214.24. Life saved: 4 weeks, 2 hours, 30 minutes.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> GADS ain’t that the truth LES! > Bren > One month, four weeks, one day, 15 hours, 9 minutes and 50 seconds. 909 > cigarettes not smoked, saving $130.51. Life saved: 3 days, 3 hours, 45 > minutes.

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How about we keep our collective energies focused on the quit, the rest of the world’s problems will wait. Bob W-Smober today — Go look at the greatest birds on this planet, And one or two other things! http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=920736&Auth=false – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >"Les Stewart" wrote > I just spent a little time and effort finding a digital camera….. >Thanks, Les! Thanks, Les! Thanks, Les! >Thanks, Les! Thanks, Les! Thanks, Les! >Thanks, Les! Thanks, Les! Thanks, Les! >and so on and so forth…. >What a wealth of good info! I really appreciate it. This group of >folks is amazing, I tell you. Let’s turn our collective energies next >to world hunger, or Middle East peace or something. I dare say we >could have things shipshape in a week or so…. >Off to hunt for cameras…. >Jef.

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"Jef." wrote > What a wealth of good info! I really appreciate it. This group of > folks is amazing, I tell you. Let’s turn our collective energies next > Jef.

Best be careful! With the way me and some others are munchin’ our way through our quit, we may be the CAUSE of world hunger. — Les Stewart Beaumont, TX – take out n a e s p a m to email Five months, one week, one day, 18 hours, 16 minutes and 10 seconds. 8088 cigarettes not smoked, saving $1,213.21. Life saved: 4 weeks, 2 hours, 0 minutes.

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All I know is….DON’T go cheap! It is definitely a "you get what you pay for thing". My friend bought a fairly high end Kodak (around $350 camera) and it takes beautiful pictures. I bought a $130 Polaroid and it doesn’t take close-ups and it is VERY finicky about lighting. Make sure you get a camera with removable memory and zoom. Hope this helps.  =) Bren One month, four weeks, one day, 9 hours, 14 minutes and 24 seconds. 905 cigarettes not smoked, saving $129.98. Life saved: 3 days, 3 hours, 25 minutes.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> "CyberSpiff"  wrote > As I am starting to look at buying a digital camera I was wondering > what people are using out there…. > This is eerie. I was going to post something very similar tonight, as > I want to buy one prior to going to Philly to meet the others next > week, and wanted something good to record the meeting with. > It’s been established that, collectively, AS3 knows….EVERYTHING! > So, again: Anybody use these things and have a recommendation for a > decently-featured, dependable, easy-to-use model that doesn’t cost an > arm and a leg? Gotta have one within a few days….. > Thanks– > Jef.

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"Sassy She-Spock" wrote > wow, there were only 2 exclamation points.  <ducks and runs>

— Les Stewart Beaumont, TX – take out n a e s p a m to email Five months, one week, one day, 17 hours, 56 minutes and 37 seconds. 8087 cigarettes not smoked, saving $1,213.10. Life saved: 4 weeks, 1 hour, 55 minutes.

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> I just spent a little time and effort finding a digital camera.

<snip> wow, there were only 2 exclamation points.  <ducks and runs>

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"Les Stewart" wrote > I just spent a little time and effort finding a digital camera…..

Thanks, Les! Thanks, Les! Thanks, Les! Thanks, Les! Thanks, Les! Thanks, Les! Thanks, Les! Thanks, Les! Thanks, Les! and so on and so forth…. What a wealth of good info! I really appreciate it. This group of folks is amazing, I tell you. Let’s turn our collective energies next to world hunger, or Middle East peace or something. I dare say we could have things shipshape in a week or so…. Off to hunt for cameras…. Jef.

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<< I want to buy one prior to going to Philly to meet the others next week, and wanted something good to record the meeting with.  >> I plan on taking pictures of the Texas gathering:) I use all digital equipment at work, but the only cameras I know anyting about cost between $600-$3,000…an arm, leg and head!  if still interested give me an e-mail. –Razzle If you’re not yourself-who will you be? 1month, 2 weeks, 3 day and counting

> Is there truly just two planes in the world equipped to do this ? Are they > constantly on demand/busy with customers having to book time long in advance > or is that something that is easy to get?

No, but the demand is so limited, the market can only really support two companies.  The system can be switched between several planes (Clay Lacy put his in a Pilatus Porter STOL turboprop for doing some filming for The Never Ending Story).  Today, there are three systems that I am aware of: Astrovision, with Clay Lacy Aviation, Vectorvision with Wolfe Air (they now do the majority of fixed with air-to-air for the movie industry, in movies like Air Force One, etc.), and a new system developed by the fellow in France who does Airbus’ air-to-air.  The new system is an advancement of the Vectorvision system, and in fact the two companies are now forming a partnership together with Wolfe Air.  (Wolfe Air also does a huge amout of Hollywood’s helicopter footage with gyro-mounted cameras). > Wouldn’t NASA also have similar equipment around Kennedy Space Center to chase > the shuttle ? Or are those more "crude" cameras through windows ?

I suspect the shuttle photography is taken from the cockpits of the chase planes.  To my knowledge, NASA does not have a periscope-type air-to-air system.  If they need one, I suspect they would hire one of the aerial photography companies to provide the service, just as the airframe (military and civilian) and airlines do.  Astrovision systems (and to my knowledge, there is only the one) are no longer in production.  You cannot buy a Vectorvision system, you can only lease one.  This is true of a lot of specialized movie industry gear- for example, the largest and best maker of camera cranes is Chapman.  You cannot buy a Chapman crane, you can only lease one.  Camera equipment rental houses that have Chapman equipment for rent are leasing it long-term from Chapman. > Is the camera separate (provided by customer) or is it part of the periscope > assembly with the lens being the pressure vessel ? Or is the periscope the > pressure vessel  with the camera just mounted to have the lens at the right > place ?

The systems are integrated units.  You can install 16mm, 35mm, video, or still cameras on all of them (but only one camera at a time), although the switchover process is very involved with the old Astrovision system.  The cameras usually belong to the aerial photography company.  The periscopes project only a foot or so beyond the skin of the fuselage.  The seal(s) and turning bearing assemblies are what maintain the pressure integrity of the fuselage.  I don’t know how the seals work in the periscopes themselves to keep pressure from escaping. > Does it shoot only conventional film, or can it be changed to shoot stills or > video ? (or infrared for night filming etc) ?

See above.  In the US, for Boeing and the airlines, the medium preferred for motion footage is almost always 35mm film.  Airbus, being in Europe and therefore using PAL video as opposed to the US’s God-awful NTSC video, shoots video air-to-air unless a customer specifically asks for film.  The still format used on all the systems is 2-1/4 X 2-1/4, usually Hasselblads. C. Marin Faure   author, Flying A Floatplane

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> In essence, it is a pair of periscopes, one out the top of the plane and > the other out the bottom.  A film, video, or still camera is mounted to > the periscope. The entire rig can revolve 360 degrees, and the periscope > lens can tilt up and down.

Thanks for the very good description of hos it is done. Some of these shots are so well done it makes you want to flap your arms and follow … Is there truly just two planes in the world equipped to do this ? Are they constantly on demand/busy with customers having to book time long in advance or is that something that is easy to get? Wouldn’t NASA also have similar equipment around Kennedy Space Center to chase the shuttle ? Or are those more "crude" cameras through windows ? > The other system, developed by the same person, a Mr. Nettman, is called > Vectorvision, and it is far superior to the earlier Astrovision, although > the principle is the same.  But the optics are better, it has automatic > horizon leveling, and Vectorvision has a zoom capability.

Is the camera separate (provided by customer) or is it part of the periscope assembly with the lens being the pressure vessel ? Or is the periscope the pressure vessel  with the camera just mounted to have the lens at the right place ? Does it shoot only conventional film, or can it be changed to shoot stills or video ? (or infrared for night filming etc) ?

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> > Is the chase plane pressurised and equipped with a special lens-quality > window, or do they use an unpressurised plane with the crew wearing oxygen > masks, and the camera lens through ahole in the fuselage?

As I described in an earlier post, the camera systems use a periscope through the top and bottom of the fuselage. You cannot obtain the kind of shots you see through a window, no matter how clean it is.  The periscope system is sealed to the fuselage, and the system is approved to maintain cabin pressurization.  So the Lear is pressurized and heated for the entire shoot.  We generally conduct the sessions below 10,000 feet simply to avoid hassles with ATC.  However, for special purposes, such as a recent shoot with the BBJ where the director deliberately wanted to shoot the plane leaving contrails, the two planes went way up until the BBJ began leaving good, solid contrails. > I think they just shoot through a normal cabin window that they keep extra > clean.  Those scratches you see on commerical jets’ cabin windows are the > result of thousands of hours of dust and cleaning, and there’s no economic > incentive for an airline to replace them when they get all scratched up like > that.  However, the windows can be changed, and I’m sure a company > specializing in shooting photos and video in flight would change their > windows when they get less than crystal clear.

As I said, you cannot get much of anything useable in terms of movement and framing through an aircraft window. About all you can get is a side shot, which is pretty worthless for what we use the film form. C. Marin Faure   author, Flying A Floatplane

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> I have always wondered what is involved in filming a 747 (or any plane) in the > air.

There are two systems used, the older Astrovision system, which is mounted in a Learjet and operated by Clay Lacey Aviation in Van Nuys, California. In essence, it is a pair of periscopes, one out the top of the plane and the other out the bottom.  A film, video, or still camera is mounted to the periscope. The entire rig can revolve 360 degrees, and the periscope lens can tilt up and down.  The subject plane is generally flown straight and level, while the Lear maneuvers around it.  With the exception of peel-aways where the subject airplane actually does peel off toward the horizon, all the moves you see are actually the Learjet moving around the subject plane.  As to how close, it depends on what you’re trying to do. With Astrovision, which has no zoom capability, Lacy has often tucked the Lear inside between the main wing and the horizontal stabilizer for a close shot.  But usually the closest one gets is wingtip to wingtip with perhaps ten or twenty feet separating the planes. The cameraman sits in the rear of the plane with the director beside him. There is a video pickoff so you can see what the film camera is seeing in a small video monitor. A non-moving joystick (it responds to fingertip pressure) rotates the perisope while another similar control tilts the periscope lens.  The moves around the subject plane are planned out in a pre-flight meeting, and you simply go through all the moves once you’re in the air.  I generally storyboard the moves I want with rough sketches which I give to the cameraman, the Lear pilot, ad the subject plane pilot in the preflight meeting.  That way, everyone knows what I (the director) expect from each move, and the session can go fairly quickly.  It’s not cheap- the average cost for an air-to-air session is about US$30,000, which includes the cost of ferrying the Lear from California to Seattle and back. The other system, developed by the same person, a Mr. Nettman, is called Vectorvision, and it is far superior to the earlier Astrovision, although the principle is the same.  But the optics are better, it has automatic horizon leveling, and Vectorvision has a zoom capability.  The primary operator of Vectorvision is Wolfe Air, also based in Van Nuys.  I used Wolfe Air last year for an air-to-air session with an USAF AWACS plane along the Washington Coast and up the Columbia River.  At times, were were perhaps 50 feet off the wing of the AWACS.  You dont’ have to get quite as close as with Astrovision because of Vectorvision’s zoom capability. C. Marin Faure   author, Flying A Floatplane

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i remember an aerial picture of all star alliance members in a V formation. interesting pic!

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> I have always wondered what is involved in filming a 747 (or any plane) in the > air. How close does the camera-equipped plane get to the real airplane ? Is it > shot during a regular commercial flight, or must such shooting be done when > the 747 is being test flown, or flown empty to a maintenance facility etc ? > (Or woudl they actually get a 747 to take-off just for the purpose of shooting > it on film ?)

There are a couple of companies that specialize in in-flight pictures and video shoots.  I can’t remember the name of them offhand.  The video and pictures are shot exactly the way they look: from a formation flight between a non-revenue flight of the pictured airplane and a chase plane that is carrying the photographers.  Most of the Boeing shots you see in footage are taken during test flights, since those are non-revenue and there are no restrictions on formation flying.  You can’t formation-fly a commercial flight. > What sort of plane is used to shoot the other plane ? Would the 747 be > travelling at normal cruise speed or at a much slower pace to allow the chase > plane to keep up with the 747 ?

I remember reading an article on one of these photo companies in an aviation magazine a few years back, and as I recall they were using a Learjet. Usually the airplanes aren’t going very fast, but they are flying fast enough to keep the flaps up, so that would be at least ~230 knots or more. Since both airplanes are jets, there wouldn’t be much concern about the pictured airplane outrunning the chase plane.  The chosen speed would simply be a function of fuel savings versus how much the photographer cared about the pitch of the airplane.  As airplanes slow down, the pitch increases, and if a photographer were being real picky about wanting the in flight picture to represent the airplane in level flight, he might get them to fly a little faster to get the nose down. > Is the chase plane pressurised and equipped with a special lens-quality > window, or do they use an unpressurised plane with the crew wearing oxygen > masks, and the camera lens through ahole in the fuselage?

I think they just shoot through a normal cabin window that they keep extra clean.  Those scratches you see on commerical jets’ cabin windows are the result of thousands of hours of dust and cleaning, and there’s no economic incentive for an airline to replace them when they get all scratched up like that.  However, the windows can be changed, and I’m sure a company specializing in shooting photos and video in flight would change their windows when they get less than crystal clear. Chris — email address: dahler at bigfoot dot com

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Just watched a video on Boeing’s web site about the history of the 747 and it featured nothing but interesting footage of 747s on the ground and in the air. I have always wondered what is involved in filming a 747 (or any plane) in the air. How close does the camera-equipped plane get to the real airplane ? Is it shot during a regular commercial flight, or must such shooting be done when the 747 is being test flown, or flown empty to a maintenance facility etc ? (Or woudl they actually get a 747 to take-off just for the purpose of shooting it on film ?) What sort of plane is used to shoot the other plane ? Would the 747 be travelling at normal cruise speed or at a much slower pace to allow the chase plane to keep up with the 747 ? Is the chase plane pressurised and equipped with a special lens-quality window, or do they use an unpressurised plane with the crew wearing oxygen masks, and the camera lens through ahole in the fuselage ?

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I have a ‘problem’ with the environmental control system.  When I accelerate moderate hard, the air flow gets directed from vent to defrost.  When I stop accelerating, the air flow is normal. Any ideas as to what’s up?

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> I have a ‘problem’ with the environmental control system.  When I > accelerate moderate hard, the air flow gets directed from vent to > defrost.  When I stop accelerating, the air flow is normal. > Any ideas as to what’s up?

Take a look at the one-way check valve. It’s on a thin vacuum line that goes from the brake booster to the firewall. It looks like a black plastic 35mm film can. Make sure the lines are plugged firmly into the valve and the right angle adapter. I secured mine with small ty-raps and the problem went away. If that doesn’t help, replace the valve (it’s cheap). —

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where did you find the valve, I have checked with 5 stores now. Eugene – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a ‘problem’ with the environmental control system.  When I > accelerate moderate hard, the air flow gets directed from vent to > defrost.  When I stop accelerating, the air flow is normal. > Any ideas as to what’s up? > Take a look at the one-way check valve. It’s on a thin vacuum line that > goes from the brake booster to the firewall. It looks like a black > plastic 35mm film can. Make sure the lines are plugged firmly into the > valve and the right angle adapter. I secured mine with small ty-raps and > the problem went away. If that doesn’t help, replace the valve (it’s > cheap). > —

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> where did you find the valve, I have checked with 5 stores now. > Eugene

I haven’t changed mine, but I would assume it’s a dealer-only part.

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I have a ‘problem’ with the environmental control system.  When I accelerate moderate hard, the air flow gets directed from vent to defrost.  When I stop accelerating, the air flow is normal. Any ideas as to what’s up?

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> I have a ‘problem’ with the environmental control system.  When I > accelerate moderate hard, the air flow gets directed from vent to > defrost.  When I stop accelerating, the air flow is normal. > Any ideas as to what’s up?

Take a look at the one-way check valve. It’s on a thin vacuum line that goes from the brake booster to the firewall. It looks like a black plastic 35mm film can. Make sure the lines are plugged firmly into the valve and the right angle adapter. I secured mine with small ty-raps and the problem went away. If that doesn’t help, replace the valve (it’s cheap). —

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where did you find the valve, I have checked with 5 stores now. Eugene – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a ‘problem’ with the environmental control system.  When I > accelerate moderate hard, the air flow gets directed from vent to > defrost.  When I stop accelerating, the air flow is normal. > Any ideas as to what’s up? > Take a look at the one-way check valve. It’s on a thin vacuum line that > goes from the brake booster to the firewall. It looks like a black > plastic 35mm film can. Make sure the lines are plugged firmly into the > valve and the right angle adapter. I secured mine with small ty-raps and > the problem went away. If that doesn’t help, replace the valve (it’s > cheap). > —

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> where did you find the valve, I have checked with 5 stores now. > Eugene

I haven’t changed mine, but I would assume it’s a dealer-only part.

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Here’s a long question posed to the collective: I’ve currently hunting Eglin Air Force Base in Northwest Florida. It’s a huge tract of land (something like 300,000 acres) that is open to the public for hunting, fishing, etc.  For all intents and purposes, it’s a wildlife management area (wma).  I do most of my serious hunting in Virginia, but, obviously, I can’t run up to Virginia every time I’ve got a day off. I’ve scouted a fair bit of the property, and have found a lot of deer and hog sign on the access roads that criss-cross the property — I’ve seen virtually no game during the daylight hours however, to include the early morning and late evening.  My guess is that the game is largely nocturnal due to hunting pressure — typical WMA! Much of the area is extremely dense and virtually inaccessible — especially unsuitable for bowhunting from a treestand.  My guess is that the game retreats into the "hinterland" during the day and moves out into the fields during the evening hours. I’d love to hear from those of you that have had some success in hunting public land.  Any tips on how to hunt such a scenario?  The obvious answer to me is to find a fresh game trail, set up a stand, and be there very early and stay very late — maybe catch a careless deer or hog moving early or late.  So far it hasn’t worked.  I’d love some feedback. Chris R. Visit the rec.hunting and rec.hunting.dogs FAQ Home Page at:         http://sportsmansweb.com/hunting/ To leave the Hunting listserv list, send a message with SIGNOFF HUNTING

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> Here’s a long question posed to the collective: > I’ve currently hunting Eglin Air Force Base in Northwest Florida. > It’s a huge tract of land (something like 300,000 acres) that is > open to the public for hunting, fishing, etc.

Get one of those SPECTERE’S from Hurlburt Field to clear you a firing lane. Maybe move them around for ya!   Jim G Visit the rec.hunting and rec.hunting.dogs FAQ Home Page at:         http://sportsmansweb.com/hunting/

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I have hunted public land (Type II) in Texas for years.  Most every year I take a buck.  What I have found, is that you must scout the area months ahead of deer season. You also must get at least 1000 to 1500 yards in from any road.  I also found that the use of scents will help a great deal.  The best scent that I found to bring the bucks into your hunting area is "Tinks 69".  You can take three to four 35mm film cans, put two cotten balls in them and pour a cap full of the Tinks into the can.  Place them about two to three feet off the ground in a 180 deg area 30 or more yards in front of your stand.  You can secure the 35mm film cans to a tree with a  small tie strap.  This stuff really work great.  When your done put the lid back on the can and reuse it again. You can also make a mock scape with this stuff too. I have also tried rattlering.  That sometime works good.  Good luck hunting. Regards, Ken – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Here’s a long question posed to the collective: > I’ve currently hunting Eglin Air Force Base in Northwest Florida. > It’s a huge tract of land (something like 300,000 acres) that is > open to the public for hunting, fishing, etc.  For all intents and > purposes, it’s a wildlife management area (wma).  I do most of my > serious hunting in Virginia, but, obviously, I can’t run up to > Virginia every time I’ve got a day off. > I’ve scouted a fair bit of the property, and have found a lot of > deer and hog sign on the access roads that criss-cross the property > — I’ve seen virtually no game during the daylight hours however, to > include the early morning and late evening.  My guess is that the > game is largely nocturnal due to hunting pressure — typical WMA! > Much of the area is extremely dense and virtually inaccessible — > especially unsuitable for bowhunting from a treestand.  My guess is > that the game retreats into the "hinterland" during the day and > moves out into the fields during the evening hours. > I’d love to hear from those of you that have had some success in > hunting public land.  Any tips on how to hunt such a scenario?  The > obvious answer to me is to find a fresh game trail, set up a stand, > and be there very early and stay very late — maybe catch a careless > deer or hog moving early or late.  So far it hasn’t worked.  I’d > love some feedback. > Chris R. > Visit the rec.hunting and rec.hunting.dogs FAQ Home Page at: >         http://sportsmansweb.com/hunting/ > To leave the Hunting listserv list, send a message with SIGNOFF HUNTING

Visit the rec.hunting and rec.hunting.dogs FAQ Home Page at:         http://sportsmansweb.com/hunting/

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Dear Chris, I’ve hunted public land from Florida to Washington state and have always had the best success getting to where the people ain’t. If there are any closed roads where you have to walk a mile or so to get to a good spot, begin there. I made a cart out of a wheelbarrow to take my game out, so game retreival isn’t an issue. I hunt the first of two Oregon elk seasons beginning this weekend and will get at least a mile in back of a gate before I flip up the scope covers. Not much detailed info, but I hope it helps. Remember, the game is where the people ain’t. Good hunting, John Sauer Visit the rec.hunting and rec.hunting.dogs FAQ Home Page at:         http://sportsmansweb.com/hunting/

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Chris,         Hi my name is Dave and I too hunt Eglin.  And like yourself have been unsuccessful.  I dont think that hunting pressure is a problem though. Please get back to me and we can prepare notes.  I have been hunting in area 4 this season so far.  I missed a hog about 2 weeks ago, but have not seen any deer.  But I have seen a bunch of turkey Dave – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Here’s a long question posed to the collective: > I’ve currently hunting Eglin Air Force Base in Northwest Florida. > It’s a huge tract of land (something like 300,000 acres) that is > open to the public for hunting, fishing, etc.  For all intents and > purposes, it’s a wildlife management area (wma).  I do most of my > serious hunting in Virginia, but, obviously, I can’t run up to > Virginia every time I’ve got a day off. > I’ve scouted a fair bit of the property, and have found a lot of > deer and hog sign on the access roads that criss-cross the property > — I’ve seen virtually no game during the daylight hours however, to > include the early morning and late evening.  My guess is that the > game is largely nocturnal due to hunting pressure — typical WMA! > Much of the area is extremely dense and virtually inaccessible — > especially unsuitable for bowhunting from a treestand.  My guess is > that the game retreats into the "hinterland" during the day and > moves out into the fields during the evening hours. > I’d love to hear from those of you that have had some success in > hunting public land.  Any tips on how to hunt such a scenario?  The > obvious answer to me is to find a fresh game trail, set up a stand, > and be there very early and stay very late — maybe catch a careless > deer or hog moving early or late.  So far it hasn’t worked.  I’d > love some feedback.

Visit the rec.hunting and rec.hunting.dogs FAQ Home Page at:         http://sportsmansweb.com/hunting/

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Did you lose a roll of 35mm film in yellowstone around July 15 or 16th? I found a roll. Email me.

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I always take one picture of my vehicle license plate per roll of film while on a trip.  If you get no response you might have the film developed and see if a clue presents itself. Earl

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Hi, I had my lobe at 20mm a couple of months ago, and took the jewellry out till the tear had healed. It looks pretty well healed now, so I tried putting jewellrey back in and managed to get a 12mm tunel in with no pain or feeling of "tightness" that usually comes with a new stretching. So waht I was wondering is, has anyone else torn a lovbe then re-stretched it, and how well did it go, cos Id like to get it back to 20mm again ideally. Thanks in advance. Steve — ICQ No. 11231236 "My advice to all you boys and all you girls is never try to be old" Stay Young, Ultrasound

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> Hi, I had my lobe at 20mm a couple of months ago, and took the jewellry > out till the tear had healed. It looks pretty well healed now, so I tried > putting jewellrey back in and managed to get a 12mm tunel in with no pain > or feeling of "tightness" that usually comes with a new stretching. So > waht I was wondering is, has anyone else torn a lovbe then re-stretched > it, and how well did it go, cos Id like to get it back to 20mm again > ideally. Thanks in advance. > Steve > — > ICQ No. 11231236

Hi Steve, I removed my lobe loops in March 95 (I was at that time wearing tunnels made from plastic 35mm film cases!) and they were in a rough shape – my right was too conical in shape and my left was wearing thin in places and in danger of snapping (I think due to snipping the flesh between smaller piercings to get a bigger hole rather than more gradual stretching). I have recently been able to wear pretty big and heavy jewellery (>00 gauge 1/4lb circular barbell) in both lobes a temporary basis after only a few days’ stretching. I experienced the same tightness as when unstretched but to a lesser extent and I must confess that they weren’t as confortable as when they were "permanent". I’m sure you’ll get up to 20mm again with gradual increments and suitable "resting" periods. Get stuck in lad! UnFormat P.S. has anyone "repaired" a lobe loop by cutting the inner surface and stitching the edges together? I’ve been thinking about this for a long time as I would like to develop loops in the future but my existing loops remain – and are too thin in places. I’m running out of lobe!!

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