Champ 3 prong conversion

Question:

I have an old Champ (1963 5F1) that still has a two prong non-polarized plug. As is, the hot goes to the switch and neutral to the fuse. If I hooked a new 3 prong cord the same way plus chassis ground would the chassis not ground out the switch or can I just do that? Also would it be horribly unsafe to just put a two prong polarized plug (I don’t plan on playing out with this just keeping it at home)?

Response:

> I have an old Champ (1963 5F1) that still has a two prong non-polarized > plug. As is, the hot goes to the switch and neutral to the fuse. If I > hooked a new 3 prong cord the same way plus chassis ground would the > chassis not ground out the switch or can I just do that? >Also would it be horribly unsafe to just put a two prong polarized plug (I

don’t plan on playing out with this just keeping it at home)?<< Even so, get it wrong and it will kill you just as dead as if you were using it to gig with I feel sure I won’t be the only one to recommend you get a qualified electrician to do the conversion and fit the grounding properly, and a pro repair guy should be able to modify in such a way that it can be reverted to original status should you want to sell it "in original condition" at some time in the future. Regards – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

>I have an old Champ (1963 5F1) that still has a two prong non-polarized > plug. As is, the hot goes to the switch and neutral to the fuse. If I > hooked a new 3 prong cord the same way plus chassis ground would the > chassis not ground out the switch or can I just do that? Also would it > be horribly unsafe to just put a two prong polarized plug (I don’t plan > on playing out with this just keeping it at home)?

It’s all right here: http://www.rru.com/~meo/Guitar/Amps/Kalamazoo/Mods/safe.html courtesy of Miles O’Neal. If you are handy with a soldering iron, you can do the job. It seems you know one end from another, as you’ve described the existing power supply circuit. Wire this with the fuse on the hot leg. I usually put the green ground wire under a power tranny bolt. Remember to properly discharge the filter caps so you don’t end up dead. This is considered essential to your safety. If you can’t get a free power cord from the IT guys at work, go to Target and get one there (extra cheap and same quality as Home Depot). Hack off the end you don’t need. The molded plug is really the way to go. Do this before you plug it in again. If it has a death cap, it’s also time to clip that fella out of there. Regards, Phil

Response:

> I have an old Champ (1963 5F1) that still has a two prong non-polarized > plug. As is, the hot goes to the switch and neutral to the fuse. If I > hooked a new 3 prong cord the same way plus chassis ground would the > chassis not ground out the switch or can I just do that? Also would it > be horribly unsafe to just put a two prong polarized plug (I don’t plan > on playing out with this just keeping it at home)?

If you’re thinking of replacing the plug, you may as well go ahead and replace the entire AC cord with a 3-prong type. (Keep the old cord for posterity.) Here’s how the cord should be connected: HOT: HOT–>Fuse–>Switch–>Power Transformer HOT lead. NEUTRAL: NEUTRAL–>Power Transformer NEUTRAL lead. GROUND: GROUND bolted and soldered to chassis. (Use lug on PT bolt.) That should keep you alive. Regards, –E

Response:

Phil didn’t explain what a "death cap" is so I will. Amps often used to put a capacitor between the hot and/or neutral side(s) of the line and the chassis ground. The purpose was to filter noise coming in the power cord to ground. With a three prong plug that is properly grounded if one of those caps goes bad and shorts, the voltage is shunted to ground. But if the third wire ground is somehow defective or missing and the cap fails, it can put full voltage on your amp chassis and hence on your guitar! Hence the name "death cap".

Response:

Thanks a lot guys, so I still have a couple of questions– should I now attach the neutral side of the power transformer to the lamp as per the MilesO’Neal website? there’s already a green lead from the PT on the lamp (the other green lead goes to chassis ground along with a red with orange stripe) the original schematic says green goes to all 6.3V filaments so maybe I don’t want to directly attach that to the neutral? Anyway it seems as if should do this: Hot to side lug of fuse (where death cap and PT lead currently are) remove death cap from circuit, jumper to switch, leave PT lead to other side of switch, which leaves the Neutral side of the PT–do I just directly hook this to the neutral wire of the cord? should I do this slightly differently and run hot fuse, fuse to PT, PT to switch, Switch to neutral–this would be the way it’s currently wired, in reverse, minus the death cap, plus chassis ground.

Response:

thanks for the reply, yeah I think maybe that death had gone bad because the thing was always hot either way the plug was in the socket.

Response:

>NEUTRAL: NEUTRAL–>Power Transformer NEUTRAL lead

as I asked Phil S., does this hook directly to the PT lead or is there a stop somewhere else? the Miles O’Neal website shows hooking it to lamp lead but I think that’s incorrect with my amp (green lead from PT goes to lamp).

Response:

> Thanks a lot guys, so I still have a couple of questions– should I now > attach the neutral side of the power transformer to the lamp as per the > MilesO’Neal website? there’s already a green lead from the PT on the > lamp (the other green lead goes to chassis ground along with a red with > orange stripe) the original schematic says green goes to all 6.3V > filaments so maybe I don’t want to directly attach that to the neutral? > Anyway it seems as if should do this: Hot to side lug of fuse (where > death cap and PT lead currently are) remove death cap from circuit, > jumper to switch, leave PT lead to other side of switch, which leaves > the Neutral side of the PT–do I just directly hook this to the neutral > wire of the cord? should I do this slightly differently and run hot > fuse, fuse to PT, PT to switch, Switch to neutral–this would be the > way it’s currently wired, in reverse, minus the death cap, plus chassis > ground.

Josh, Let’s see if we can sort this out. First, the power transformer primary doesn’t care which side is hot. It’s got two black leads (or some variation) that send the electricity through the primary coil and direction (left to right or right to left) is irrelevant. If you found the two primary leads, you are past the first step. Assuming you’ve got a standard USA power cord with molded plug, black is hot, white is neutral, and green is ground. "Green is ground" really means redundant neutral. It is best to place the fuse on the hot leg between the wall recepticle and the power tranny. Any excessive current draw will blow the fuse and shut down the amp. Like this: Black power cord wire > fuse > switch > primary on transformer. You may need to rearrange the switch wiring, but there is a good chance you can leave it in place. Just think about what you are doing and draw yourself a picture if you need to. On the other leg simply connect the white power cord wire to the other primary on transformer. You can use a terminal strip, or simply splice, solder, and cover with heatshrink. The green wire gets a lug put on it. I feed the wire into the lug terminal and solder it in place. Get the kind of lug that is an open circle, not the U shaped ones. Put the lug under a bolt that holds the power transformer. (The U shaped lug and slip out of place.) If the bulb is on the 6.3V filament circuit, it is not under consideration for this conversation. If the bulb is on the 115v primary circuit. put the bulb between the switch and the power tranny. If your switch is a mutli position switch, for simplicity, only use it like a SPST switch and wire it so that it is On or Off. In all other positions, it is Off or nothing connected. If you want, you can wire it so that either On position is on. Just parallel the connection, but make sure the switch acts as a make or break and that it isn’t on all the time! Phil

Response:

thanks a lot, that’s what I thought needed to happen, the green wires I was referring are from the PT not the ground from the new cable (which I was planning on soldering to the lug where the death cap is currently grounded) one side is the 6.3V to the lamp and then to the filaments the other is grounded to the chassis. I do realize the PT leads are non-directional, I just worded it poorly when I said neutral side I meant because the other would already be hooked to the hot–I’ll figure how to talk about these things without sounding like an idiot eventually. I’ll try this tonight and see if it blows up josh

Response:

> >NEUTRAL: NEUTRAL–>Power Transformer NEUTRAL lead > as I asked Phil S., does this hook directly to the PT lead

Yes. > or is there a stop somewhere else?

There is no other stop in between. > the Miles O’Neal website shows hooking it to > lamp lead but I think that’s incorrect with my amp (green lead from PT > goes to lamp).

You’re right. Ignore Miles’ diagram. It doesn’t apply to your amp. (Not the part with the neutral wire going to the lamp, anyway.) Make sure you’ve got a good strain relief on the power cord so that it won’t budge if tugged upon. –E

Response:

> >NEUTRAL: NEUTRAL–>Power Transformer NEUTRAL lead > as I asked Phil S., does this hook directly to the PT lead or is there > a stop somewhere else? the Miles O’Neal website shows hooking it to > lamp lead but I think that’s incorrect with my amp (green lead from PT > goes to lamp).

Another of the many threads on this topic: http://groups.google.com/group/alt.guitar.amps/browse_frm/thread/a681… –E

Response:

> thanks a lot, that’s what I thought needed to happen, the green wires I > was referring are from the PT not the ground from the new cable (which > I was planning on soldering to the lug where the death cap is currently > grounded) one side is the 6.3V to the lamp and then to the filaments > the other is grounded to the chassis. I do realize the PT leads are > non-directional, I just worded it poorly when I said neutral side I > meant because the other would already be hooked to the hot–I’ll figure > how to talk about these things without sounding like an idiot > eventually. I’ll try this tonight and see if it blows up > josh

The green secondary wires are typically for the 6.3v filament string. The lamp is on that string, so just leave all of that the way it is. If the former death cap ground is to the chassis and there is nothing else attached (actually nothing at all now that you clipped the death cap) it is probably OK for the power supply ground wire. You indicate the 6.3V string is involved, in which case, this is not an appropriate location for the A/C power supply ground. It is probably easiest to put it under the tranny bolt. This ground should not share the ground point with any of the amplifier ground scheme. It should be totally isolated. BTW, I didn’t mean to imply that you were "sounding like an idiot". Everyone starts out somewhere and you are making yourself reasonable clear. Regards, Phil

Response:

>If the former death cap ground is to the chassis and there is nothing else >attached (actually nothing at all now that you clipped the death cap) it is >probably OK for the power supply ground wire. You indicate the 6.3V string >is involved, in which case, this is not an appropriate location for the A/C >power supply ground. It is probably easiest to put it under the tranny >bolt. This ground should not share the ground point with any of the >amplifier ground scheme. It should be totally isolated.

The death cap is located on a lug which happens to be on one of the bolts for the transformer, which sounds perfect except there is nothing isolating that bolt from the chassis (or will that be okay?) >BTW, I didn’t mean to imply that you were "sounding like an idiot". >Everyone starts out somewhere and you are making yourself reasonable clear.

No worries, I really appreciate your help. …and if I can take advantage of your help even more I have another question–what connects the turrets? is there a permanent wire like a trace on a PC board, or if I solder a new cap in do I need to make sure that whatever that connector is doesn’t move. One of the big caps (actually the biggest cap that filters the power supply) is wired to the ground wire (the one that comes from the board and connects the caps in parrallel) directly instead of the turret that connects it to the next cap, I know its ending up in the same place in the circuit but it looks really sloppy. I’m hesitant to fix it though because I’m afraid if I melt the solder I’ll lose whatever it is that connects those two points. thanks, josh

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->If the former death cap ground is to the chassis and there is nothing >else >attached (actually nothing at all now that you clipped the death cap) it >is >probably OK for the power supply ground wire. You indicate the 6.3V >string >is involved, in which case, this is not an appropriate location for the >A/C >power supply ground. It is probably easiest to put it under the tranny >bolt. This ground should not share the ground point with any of the >amplifier ground scheme. It should be totally isolated. > The death cap is located on a lug which happens to be on one of the > bolts for the transformer, which sounds perfect except there is nothing > isolating that bolt from the chassis (or will that be okay?)

I meant isolated from other grounds. The power circuit and the amplifier circuit shouldn’t mix. That bolt sounds like the right place. <bit o’ snip> > …and if I can take advantage of your help even more I have another > question–what connects the turrets? is there a permanent wire like a > trace on a PC board, or if I solder a new cap in do I need to make sure > that whatever that connector is doesn’t move. One of the big caps > (actually the biggest cap that filters the power supply) is wired to > the ground wire (the one that comes from the board and connects the > caps in parrallel) directly instead of the turret that connects it to > the next cap, I know its ending up in the same place in the circuit but > it looks really sloppy. I’m hesitant to fix it though because I’m > afraid if I melt the solder I’ll lose whatever it is that connects > those two points. > thanks, josh

Aha! U are getting curious! A turret or eyelet board is just a fixture that makes it easy to organize and hang components, mostly hookup wire, caps and resistors. If your Champ is a real Champ built back in the day (not some modern clone), it probably has an eyelet board Each eyelet or turret is insulated from all the others (the board itself is non conductive) unless you connect them somehow, by bridging them with wire, a resistor, or a cap. Components are first physically tied to the eyelet and then soldered to keep the tie point in place. Sometimes, there are wires run under the board that you can’t see. That big filter cap is grounded where it is for a reason. I think I’d need a picture to be sure what you are talking about (OK to send email, my address is real if you remove the appropriate part), but I wouldn’t go poking around trying to improve a tested design. For an amp, laying out the ground scheme is almost as much art as it is science. Each stage of the amp carries it’s own ground potential, and it is probable that each of those caps supplies B+ (high voltage) to a different part of the amp. There is a kind of "order" to the design that may not be obvious, but each succeeding amplification stage should have it’s ground located progressively closer to the power supply. (I think I didn’t say this very well, but trust me on this, there is a method being employed here that will be disrupted when you relocate the ground point, unless someone else has already messed with it.) You might want to have a look at the schematic and the layout diagram for a Champ. This is an amp with relatively few parts. A worthwhile exercise is to identify on the layout diagram all of the components on the schematic. This is a paper and pencil exercise. Then see if your amp follows the layout diagram. What you need, download from http://www.schematicheaven.com . Finally, if you are sticking anything conductive into the chassis (tools, fingers, even a pencil) it is imperative that you properly discharge the electrolytic caps. They retain enough charge to harm or kill you long after you unplug the amp. Read up at http://aga.rru.com on safety. Phil

Response:

It Worked!! it’s now rewired, quiet and doesn’t shock me! my local electronics store even has the proper strain relief for $0.25 so no grommets and wire ties. Now if I can just figure out where the funny sounds are coming from this amp will be sweet, any idea what would cause a funny electronic sound lower (in pitch unfortunately, not volume) than the note I’m playing? it’s wierd, like a really desirable guitar sound with all this fuzzy crap all around it. It is an original that I paid $28 for years ago and never really was able to use. I don’t have a digital camera unfortunately so I can’t send a picture, but I’m going to try and draw on layout to show you what I mean and send it to you, I don’t think I can possibly describe what it looks like accurately.

Response:

> It Worked!! it’s now rewired, quiet and doesn’t shock me! my local > electronics store even has the proper strain relief for $0.25 so no > grommets and wire ties. Now if I can just figure out where the funny > sounds are coming from this amp will be sweet, any idea what would > cause a funny electronic sound lower (in pitch unfortunately, not > volume) than the note I’m playing? it’s wierd, like a really desirable > guitar sound with all this fuzzy crap all around it. It is an original > that I paid $28 for years ago and never really was able to use. I don’t > have a digital camera unfortunately so I can’t send a picture, but I’m > going to try and draw on layout to show you what I mean and send it to > you, I don’t think I can possibly describe what it looks like > accurately.

Josh, I’m glad this worked out! Try to describe the "new" problem just a little more. Is the pitch (frequency) of the sound constant, or does it vary with the note you play? If it varies, is it always the same relative relationship to the note played (ghost note)? If it is constant, is it about the same pitch as a low A or B flat (open A string)? Or an octave above that? (60 Hz or 120 Hz) About the fuzz, does it vary any or is it always the same? I’m thinking you’ve got more than one problem and that this old amp just needs a little routine maintenance to be in top shape. We need to figure out the problems. Without experience and tools this could be a challenge. Have you got a DMM and do you know how to use one? Phil

Response:

After further consideration (and letting the amp warm up, the initial test was at 3:30 AM and very quiet and very quick so the tubes weren’t hot and the noise seemed even worse) I think at least part of the problem is the speaker but I’ll find out directly if that’s the case when I rig it up through some different speakers. I’ll get back to you with more info, check your inbox. josh

Response:

Tried it through two Celestion 90 watt 12s, works perfectly for the first time in the ten years I’ve had it, neglected to mention that while I was in there last night I replaced the last two electrolytic capacitors ( the power stage ones I replaced when I first got it, but I knew even less then which is why I was worried about the ground because I couldn’t remember if I did it or someone before me did but it works so I’m guessing it was someone before me), so it’s all good now except for a replacement speaker which are sale from Weber at the moment. It’s amazing how much sound that little amp can move when hooked up to the twelves. josh

Response:

Well said, Phil! The only thing I would add is that the hot lead should go to the end terminal on the fuse, not the side terminal. That makes it much more difficult for someone to accidentally get zapped if they touch the metal part of the cap while replacing a fuse.

Response:

> Tried it through two Celestion 90 watt 12s, works perfectly for the > first time in the ten years I’ve had it, neglected to mention that > while I was in there last night I replaced the last two electrolytic > capacitors ( the power stage ones I replaced when I first got it, but I > knew even less then which is why I was worried about the ground because > I couldn’t remember if I did it or someone before me did but it works > so I’m guessing it was someone before me), so it’s all good now except > for a replacement speaker which are sale from Weber at the moment. It’s > amazing how much sound that little amp can move when hooked up to the > twelves. > josh

Nice work, Josh. Enjoy! Phil

Response:

josh schrieb: > It Worked!! it’s now rewired, quiet and doesn’t shock me! my local > electronics store even has the proper strain relief for $0.25 so no > grommets and wire ties. Now if I can just figure out where the funny > sounds are coming from this amp will be sweet, any idea what would > cause a funny electronic sound lower (in pitch unfortunately, not > volume) than the note I’m playing?

Hi Josh, "subharmonics" normally indicate a problem with the filters; the line frequency modulates the signal. Somewhere you wrote that the first filters have already been replaced; correct values? solder connections intact? wiring ok? regards Jochen SNIP

Response:

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In: Digital Camera

Amazon.com breaks into guitar/amp sales

Question:

Read story at: www.soniccontrol.com

Response:

> Read story at: > www.soniccontrol.com

"New Beta Section Partners With Featured Sellers Sam Ash, Musician’s Friend, Woodwind & Brasswind, Music Yo, zZounds, Full Compass and others." Interesting. I bought some Whirlwind guitar cables through Amazon a few months ago and didn’t think anything of it. The cables arrived promptly and all, but they were shipped from some other company which makes me think that they’ll be using their partners the same way – Amazon takes the orders and the other retailers handle the rest (although Amazon might possibly handle return transactions, I suppose).

Response:

>> Read story at: > www.soniccontrol.com >"New Beta Section Partners With Featured Sellers Sam Ash, Musician’s >Friend, Woodwind & Brasswind, Music Yo, zZounds, Full Compass and >others." >Interesting. I bought some Whirlwind guitar cables through Amazon a >few months ago and didn’t think anything of it. The cables arrived >promptly and all, but they were shipped from some other company which >makes me think that they’ll be using their partners the same way – >Amazon takes the orders and the other retailers handle the rest >(although Amazon might possibly handle return transactions, I suppose).

I won’t do business with Amazon anymore because I was stupid enough to try to buy computer memory through them, but the transaction went bad because the company who was supposed to ship the memory didn’t ship it, and refused to communicate with me. And then Amazon refused to refund my money, and forced me to dispute the charges through my credit card company. What you’re looking at is a bad deal all around if the transaction fails. Because Amazon will charge your credit card instantly, and someone else will be in charge of shipping what you bought. Don’t fall for that BS. The credit card isn’t supposed to be charged until the product is shipped to you. Don’t give those guys that kind of buffer zone. Go to somebody who’s actually selling what you’re looking for, and buy it there. Amazon specializes in selling books, so it’s a bit ridiculous to think that they’re a good place to buy music gear. Pete — Next year? Who knows when that’ll be? –Bloo

Response:

> Read story at: > www.soniccontrol.com > "New Beta Section Partners With Featured Sellers Sam Ash, Musician’s > Friend, Woodwind & Brasswind, Music Yo, zZounds, Full Compass and > others." > Interesting. I bought some Whirlwind guitar cables through Amazon a > few months ago and didn’t think anything of it. The cables arrived > promptly and all, but they were shipped from some other company which > makes me think that they’ll be using their partners the same way – > Amazon takes the orders and the other retailers handle the rest > (although Amazon might possibly handle return transactions, I suppose).

Yep. I bought a digital camera yesterday from amazon and it was then shipped from J&R Music & Electronics. Same price as J&R charges, but I didn’t have to go there or otherwise shop around so it is nice. And when I did shop around yesterday morning, I found the same camera from infiniticameras.com for allot cheaper. Then I found out it did not include the memory card and battery (the new ones from the factory have both items). Then I googled "infinityphoto.com scam" and found out why. I called and canceled my order and placed one with amazon for just a few $$$ more. So now I think I will stick with a known e-tailor like amazon. —

Response:

Now, give your advice on pawn shops, ya pinky sniff. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>Read story at: >>www.soniccontrol.com >"New Beta Section Partners With Featured Sellers Sam Ash, Musician’s >Friend, Woodwind & Brasswind, Music Yo, zZounds, Full Compass and >others." >Interesting. I bought some Whirlwind guitar cables through Amazon a >few months ago and didn’t think anything of it. The cables arrived >promptly and all, but they were shipped from some other company which >makes me think that they’ll be using their partners the same way – >Amazon takes the orders and the other retailers handle the rest >(although Amazon might possibly handle return transactions, I suppose). > I won’t do business with Amazon anymore because I was stupid enough to > try to buy computer memory through them, but the transaction went bad > because the company who was supposed to ship the memory didn’t ship > it, and refused to communicate with me. And then Amazon refused to > refund my money, and forced me to dispute the charges through my > credit card company. > What you’re looking at is a bad deal all around if the transaction > fails. Because Amazon will charge your credit card instantly, and > someone else will be in charge of shipping what you bought. Don’t > fall for that BS. The credit card isn’t supposed to be charged until > the product is shipped to you. > Don’t give those guys that kind of buffer zone. Go to somebody who’s > actually selling what you’re looking for, and buy it there. Amazon > specializes in selling books, so it’s a bit ridiculous to think that > they’re a good place to buy music gear. > Pete > — > Next year? > Who knows when that’ll be? –Bloo

Response:

> I won’t do business with Amazon anymore because I was stupid enough to > try to buy computer memory through them, but the transaction went bad > because the company who was supposed to ship the memory didn’t ship > it, and refused to communicate with me. And then Amazon refused to > refund my money, and forced me to dispute the charges through my > credit card company.

This is the bad thing about amazon. If you need to talk to someone, you are hosed. I accidentally hit the wrong mouse click and ordered 2 identical items. Even though I immediately tried to cancel the second order it was too late and as far as I saw there is no way to talk to a human to get it sorted out. Just some half assed email exchange with what seems like a bot. OTOH, you can get the amazon.com number from the BBB. Don’t know if you can actually talk to a human though. —

Response:

As all know– ALL ONLINE ROADS LEAD TO AMAZON. Surprise? Advertising is capitalism’s propaganda. It’s how a system self-propagates at the expense of the legion of fucktards. False demand is easy to create. LV attempts it with Chinese glass. B&W TV once sported a one min. ad every 15 mins. Remember when FM radio was hip? The WWW was plundered a long time ago. Spam, now Spim. Phishing. Wait until Satellite Radio begins with an ad, "here and there".

Response:

>I won’t do business with Amazon anymore because I was stupid enough to >try to buy computer memory through them, but the transaction went bad >because the company who was supposed to ship the memory didn’t ship >it, and refused to communicate with me. And then Amazon refused to >refund my money, and forced me to dispute the charges through my >credit card company.

if you bought something from amazon, wouldn’t amazon be shipping you the product? with a tracking number? >What you’re looking at is a bad deal all around if the transaction >fails. Because Amazon will charge your credit card instantly, and >someone else will be in charge of shipping what you bought. Don’t >fall for that BS. The credit card isn’t supposed to be charged until >the product is shipped to you.

i’ve purchased many things from amazon, sometimes i’ve had to wait for certain items, they’ve never charged me until they shipped the item, in fact i bought two books from them a month ago, they were both supposed to be in stock, turns out one wasn’t, they sent the first book with a note apologizing for the mistake and stating that i’ll only be charged when the second one ships, i’ve yet to be charged a penny. >Don’t give those guys that kind of buffer zone. Go to somebody who’s >actually selling what you’re looking for, and buy it there. Amazon >specializes in selling books, so it’s a bit ridiculous to think that >they’re a good place to buy music gear. >Pete

are you sure you didn’t buy a used item? new items come from amazon not from third parties..

Response:

>>I won’t do business with Amazon anymore because I was stupid enough to >try to buy computer memory through them, but the transaction went bad >because the company who was supposed to ship the memory didn’t ship >it, and refused to communicate with me. And then Amazon refused to >refund my money, and forced me to dispute the charges through my >credit card company. >if you bought something from amazon, wouldn’t amazon be shipping you >the product? with a tracking number?

That’s what you’d think, but no. Amazon doesn’t sell computer parts. They were more like an extra middle man, taking their piece of the pie. Why do I need that? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->What you’re looking at is a bad deal all around if the transaction >fails. Because Amazon will charge your credit card instantly, and >someone else will be in charge of shipping what you bought. Don’t >fall for that BS. The credit card isn’t supposed to be charged until >the product is shipped to you. >i’ve purchased many things from amazon, sometimes i’ve had to wait for >certain items, they’ve never charged me until they shipped the item, >in fact i bought two books from them a month ago, they were both >supposed to be in stock, turns out one wasn’t, they sent the first >book with a note apologizing for the mistake and stating that i’ll >only be charged when the second one ships, i’ve yet to be charged >a penny. >Don’t give those guys that kind of buffer zone. Go to somebody who’s >actually selling what you’re looking for, and buy it there. Amazon >specializes in selling books, so it’s a bit ridiculous to think that >they’re a good place to buy music gear. >Pete >are you sure you didn’t buy a used item? new items come from amazon >not from third parties..

It was advertised as new, but it was Amazon operating as a 3rd party. This is what I’m trying to say. Don’t let Amazon be a 3rd party. Buy your gear from a dealer who’s retail operation is properly set up, so that they don’t need Amazon to be the middle man. Amazon doesn’t belong in the musical instrument retail business. They know nothing about it. What possible advantage is there to ordering a guitar or amp, or anything else music related from Amazon? Pete — Next year? Who knows when that’ll be? –Bloo

Response:

>What possible advantage is there to ordering a guitar or amp, or >anything else music related from Amazon? >Pete

im guessing price

Response:

>>What possible advantage is there to ordering a guitar or amp, or >anything else music related from Amazon? >Pete >im guessing price

When I got things worked out with disputing the charges with my credit card company, I ordered memory from CDW for less. And they shipped it the same day that I talked to them. Got it in two days. But CDW specializes in computers related gear, while Amazon specializes in books. Pete — Next year? Who knows when that’ll be? –Bloo

Response:

"…Matters of Great Concern should be treated LIGHTLY …Matters of small concern should be treated SERIOUSLY…" Focus, Mindfulness, and the Resultant "Flow" Experience: Among the maxims on Lord Haoshige’s wall, there was this one: "Matters of great concern should be treated lightly." Among one’s affairs there should not be more than two of three matters of what one could call great concern. If these are deliberated upon during ordinary times, they can be understood. Thinking about things previously and then handling them lightly when the time comes is what this is all about. To face an event and solve it lightly is difficult if you are not resolved beforehand, and there will always be uncertainty in hitting your mark. However, if the foundation is laid previously, you can think of the saying, "Matters of great concern should be treated lightly," as your own basis for action. – Yamamoto Tsunetomo [The Book of the Samurai] If one is but secure at the foundation, he will not be pained by departure from minor details or affairs that are contrary to expectation. But in the end, the details of a matter are important. The right and wrong of one’s way of doing things are found in trivial matters. –Yamamoto Tsunetomo [The Book of the Samurai] The best focus, is to focus on improvement — not on comparison to others, a standard, or some alleged "best practice". Improve, continuously — and let the others worry about how they compare to you. Most…organizations spend way too much time and effort on standards, benchmarking, maturity, best practice this and that — and far too little time actually improving. – Richard Zultner Ikuno Oribe said, "If a retainer will just think about what he is to do for the day at hand, he will be able to do anything. If it is a single day’s work, one should be able to put up with it. Tomorrow, too is but a single day." – Yamamoto Tsunetomo [The Book of the Samurai] Nothing is particularly hard if you divide it into small jobs. – Henry Ford Singlemindedness is all-powerful -Yamamoto Tsunetomo [The Book of the Samurai] When I dance, I dance; when I sleep, I sleep; yes, and when I walk alone in a beautiful orchard, if my thoughts drift to far-off matters for some part of the time, for some other part I lead them back again to the walk, the orchard, to the sweetness of this solitude, to myself. -Montaigne "(Life) is a tale told by an idiot; full of sound and fury, signifying nothing." (Macbeth, act5,sc.5 l.16-27).

Response:

Whilst wandering in usenet PMG stated… > When I got things worked out with disputing the charges with my credit > card company, I ordered memory from CDW for less. And they shipped it > the same day that I talked to them. Got it in two days. But CDW > specializes in computers related gear, while Amazon specializes in > books.

Seems more like they specialize in finding new ways to get folks to part with their hard earned cash. In fact, I heard a rumor that Amazon plans to start selling real estate, grave plots, weapons of mass destruction, used virgins and admission tickets to Heaven. 8^)

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Whilst wandering in usenet PMG stated… > When I got things worked out with disputing the charges with my credit > card company, I ordered memory from CDW for less. And they shipped it > the same day that I talked to them. Got it in two days. But CDW > specializes in computers related gear, while Amazon specializes in > books. >Seems more like they specialize in finding new ways >to get folks to part with their hard earned cash. >In fact, I heard a rumor that Amazon plans to start >selling real estate, grave plots, weapons of mass >destruction, used virgins and admission tickets to >Heaven. >8^)

How does Amazon sell WMD at such low, low prices? It’s easy my friend. Volume, volume, volume!!! Pete — Next year? Who knows when that’ll be? –Bloo

Response:

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In: Digital Camera

Suspension creek/ balljoint check

Question:

I know George MacDonald answered this question a few times already but I am still curious about the creaking sound coming from the rear suspension. He suggested spraying with water and greasing but added that was just a temporary fix. That creaking is driving me nuts, what is the permanent solution? New springs, struts? I also heard about the balljoints seizing and snapping (saw the pictures on TeGGer(R)’s homepage). How do I check if they are ok or not?

Response:

>I know George MacDonald answered this question a few times already but I am >still curious about the creaking sound coming from the rear suspension. He >suggested spraying with water and greasing but added that was just a >temporary fix. That creaking is driving me nuts, what is the permanent >solution? New springs, struts?

A permanent solution would involve Honda redesigning the spring and lower perch on the shock with a plastic or rubber seat. Some mfrs, like VW e.g., have used a polyethylene sleeve on the last coil of the spring… which will eventually wear or break too. The Honda springs I’ve seen have an epoxy coating which wears away to bare metal in ~18 months, which is when you start to hear the creak. Honda has used sleeves as a TSB after-fit on some models but more to cure coil banging than the creak. >I also heard about the balljoints seizing and snapping (saw the pictures on >TeGGer(R)’s homepage). How do I check if they are ok or not?

If they’re >10years old, depending on your climate, the grease is undoubtedly dried out to some extent. The creak I heard from the front joints, or maybe upper bushings(?), is more of groan-type creak and is most noticable with longer suspension travel over big road surface irregularities, than the squeaky creak you get from the spring/seat over minor bumps. I now consider greasing the ball-joints an easy job – see: — Rgds, George Macdonald

Response:

>>I know George MacDonald answered this question a few times already but >I am still curious about the creaking sound coming from the rear >suspension. He suggested spraying with water and greasing but added >that was just a temporary fix. That creaking is driving me nuts, what >is the permanent solution? New springs, struts? > A permanent solution would involve Honda redesigning the spring and > lower perch on the shock with a plastic or rubber seat. Some mfrs, > like VW e.g., have used a polyethylene sleeve on the last coil of the > spring… which will eventually wear or break too.

Funny you should mention that… http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/tsb/civic/x01-907e.pdf This is for the Civic, and for the front suspension, but the idea is the same. > The Honda springs > I’ve seen have an epoxy coating which wears away to bare metal in ~18 > months, which is when you start to hear the creak. Honda has used > sleeves as a TSB after-fit on some models but more to cure coil > banging than the creak. >I also heard about the balljoints seizing and snapping (saw the >pictures on TeGGer(R)’s homepage). How do I check if they are ok or >not? > If they’re >10years old, depending on your climate, the grease is > undoubtedly dried out to some extent.

Not dried out grease, but water ingress. Water causes rust. Rust binds the ball, and then the post snaps, with, ummm, entertaining results. > The creak I heard from the > front joints, or maybe upper bushings(?), is more of groan-type creak > and is most noticable with longer suspension travel over big road > surface irregularities, than the squeaky creak you get from the > spring/seat over minor bumps. I now consider greasing the ball-joints

George, what would have been excellent would have been photographs of your surgery. I could have put that up for everyone’s edification. — TeGGeR

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In: Digital Camera

88 PGMFI accessing PCV tube at crankcase?

Question:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I disconnected the PCV Valve tube from the PCV Valve and cannot detect > any air flow so I think the tube may be blocked. Does this sound > reasonable? >Which "tube"? The one from the engine to the PCV, or the one from the PCV >to the intake manifold? > I want to clean the tube by removing it and knocking any debris out of > it but I can’t unfasten the tube from the crankcase. By sliding my > hand under the (I don’t know what they’re called but the silver > branches coming from the fuel injector to the crankcase) >Holy moly. You should NOT be touching your vehicle in this manner. It seems >you have NO idea what you’re doing. >How do you know there’s anything wrong, anyway?

the valve sits on top imbedded in one of the intake manifold branches(I think that’s what they’re called) so there is just 1 tube from the valve to the engine and its very hard to reach. Too bad I don’t have a digital camera. any suggestions? thanks Eric PS: the valve itself looks like this, http://img.eautopartscatalog.com/live/B204045532NOV.JPG Oh yeah, I’m puffing smoke badly so trying to fix that before aircare. thanks very much for your help and concern. now lets get this fixed! lol. Eric

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > the valve sits on top imbedded in one of the intake manifold > branches(I think that’s what they’re called) so there is just 1 tube > from the valve to the engine and its very hard to reach. Too bad I > don’t have a digital camera. > any suggestions? > thanks > Eric > PS: the valve itself looks like this, > http://img.eautopartscatalog.com/live/B204045532NOV.JPG > Oh yeah, I’m puffing smoke badly so trying to fix that before aircare. > thanks very much for your help and concern. now lets get this fixed! > lol.

Remove the PCV valve and shake it. Does it rattle? If not, or if it hasn’t been replaced in roughly the last 60K miles, install a new one and see if that helps your smoking problem. Some other Eric

Response:

I disconnected the PCV Valve tube from the PCV Valve and cannot detect any air flow so I think the tube may be blocked. Does this sound reasonable? I want to clean the tube by removing it and knocking any debris out of it but I can’t unfasten the tube from the crankcase. By sliding my hand under the (I don’t know what they’re called but the silver branches coming from the fuel injector to the crankcase) I can just barely touch the fastener with a finger after I remove some other tube/wire mounts. The fastener looks like a band of steal 3/8ths wide and I can feel two prongs(one thin and one wide) on the underside of the fastener about 1/4 inch apart. Can someone please tell me how to access and remove this item? thanks a lot Eric

Response:

> I disconnected the PCV Valve tube from the PCV Valve and cannot detect > any air flow so I think the tube may be blocked. Does this sound > reasonable?

Which "tube"? The one from the engine to the PCV, or the one from the PCV to the intake manifold? > I want to clean the tube by removing it and knocking any debris out of > it but I can’t unfasten the tube from the crankcase. By sliding my > hand under the (I don’t know what they’re called but the silver > branches coming from the fuel injector to the crankcase)

Holy moly. You should NOT be touching your vehicle in this manner. It seems you have NO idea what you’re doing. How do you know there’s anything wrong, anyway? — TeGGeR

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In: Digital Camera

Fantasy Fest 2004 bodypainting photos

Question:

Enjoy! www.2muchfun.biz

Response:

> Enjoy! > www.2muchfun.biz

Cool. And, LOOK! Plastic fruit! http://www.fantasyfest.net/slideshow/FF_02/DSC_0090.html Oh, yeah, and there’s the guy’s necklace, too. On topic bodyart image: http://www.2muchfun.biz/user/bluegirl.jpg Of course, I almost missed the navel piercing. Yeah, for some reason. — Curt http://curt_james.livejournal.com/ New here? http://rabbithole.org/ — Posted via Mailgate.ORG Server – http://www.Mailgate.ORG

Response:

> Enjoy! > www.2muchfun.biz

Found elsewhere: http://voy.voyeurweb.com/main/vof47/vs20041111-114421/index.html At least one piercing on view there. — Curt http://curt_james.livejournal.com/ New here? http://rabbithole.org/ — Posted via Mailgate.ORG Server – http://www.Mailgate.ORG

Response:

> > Enjoy! > www.somestupidsite.biz > Found elsewhere: > http://voy.voyeurweb.com/main/vof47/vs20041111-114421/index.html > At least one piercing on view there.

Is it too much to ask, even from you, to NOT reply to spam posts? Or are you simply so desperate because it’s such a quiet day in rab that you *need* to reply to these? Nina — C’est les microbes qui auront le dernier mot. Louis Pasteur http://www.chaotropic.net

Response:

re http://www.2muchfun.biz/ http://voy.voyeurweb.com/main/vof47/vs20041111-114421/index.html > Is it too much to ask, even from you, > to NOT reply to spam posts?

Pot, kettle, black much? Elsewhere in this newsgroup: | Goddamnit. Stop replying to spam, people! | | Email the fuckers if you want, but please | keep it out of the group. Oh, but his post was a specific response to a spammer while your post is FOR THE GREATER GOOD! P’shaw. You should’ve email the other guy rather than adding another post to that spam thread. I mean, hey, if it’s that important to you then you should be able to lead by example. But, nah, apparently, you believe it’s better to post your comment. That’ll change the behavior. Riiiiiiiiiight. Why not support your own policy? > Or are you simply so desperate because > it’s such a quiet day in rab that you > *need* to reply to these?

Need or choice? I replied because, yeah, I like tits. Large, small, high, low, one: http://www.matuschka.net/ two: http://www.yubyub.net/fun/P0001248.JPG three: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v108/curt_james/movies/3.jpg mo’: http://astrosun2.astro.cornell.edu/~akgun/Image/cow.gif And even though this is late… Happy Breast Awareness Month: http://www.misinformer.com/archive/2002/10/21/ I didn’t even see that the site www.2muchfun.biz included advertisements – that is until you brought it to my attention – because I went straight to the free, no pop-up ads photo albums. And, yeah, it *is* too much to ask. SpongeBob fan? http://www.2muchfun.biz/user/puppies.jpg On topic tattoos (and SBSP): http://www.tattoosbyjason.com/SpongeBob.html — Curt http://curt_james.livejournal.com/ New here? http://rabbithole.org/ — Posted via Mailgate.ORG Server – http://www.Mailgate.ORG

Response:

> Elsewhere in this newsgroup

I told JSin the same thing I told you. Well, almost the same thing, because I don’t think JSin is a self-centered delusional moron. > Oh, but his post was a specific response to > a spammer while your post is FOR THE GREATER GOOD!

Actually, yes. And that’s probably what makes it ‘too much to ask’ from you. [snip the usual blahblahblahlookeheresalinkimontopicblahblahblah] I’m eagerly awaiting your next logorrhoeic discourse. Although your routine could really use some new elements, lest people get too bored. It’s so amazing how someone can regress from "regular poster" to "somewhat annoying" to "blithering idiot" to "common troll" over time. Nina — C’est les microbes qui auront le dernier mot. Louis Pasteur http://www.chaotropic.net

Response:

> > Oh, but his post was a specific response to > a spammer while your post is FOR THE GREATER > GOOD! > Actually, yes.

Actually, no. See how opinions work? You’ve provided no service here. What you’ve done is to post because you wanted to post. Which is fine, of course, but don’t delude yourself that you’ve done anything of worth for Usenet as a whole. DON’T REPLY TO SPAMMERS! EMAIL THEM! Whoopie. Thanks so much. > I’m eagerly awaiting your next logorrhoeic > discourse.

See above. > Although your routine could really use some > new elements, lest people get too bored. It’s > so amazing how someone can regress from "regular > poster" to "somewhat annoying" to "blithering > idiot" to "common troll" over time.

r.p. s.a. b.i. c.t. What do you make of that, Nina? Should help you avoid the boredom for a bit. — Curt http://curt_james.livejournal.com/ New here? http://rabbithole.org/ — Posted via Mailgate.ORG Server – http://www.Mailgate.ORG

Response:

>See how opinions work?

*** Watching you act condescending to people who who are so obviously your intellectual superior is incredibly amusing. What I found really amusing was reading about how you are a "bare hand spanking kind of guy." Priceless! — k e i t h a l e x a n d e r http://www.nootrope.net http://www.modernamerican.com aim: nootrope9 ka-1 suv-0 – - e n d t r a n s m i s s i o n – -

Response:

NB> bored. It’s so amazing how someone can regress from "regular NB> poster" to "somewhat annoying" to "blithering idiot" to "common NB> troll" over time. time <= one week. lish "how sad it is for other people 40.1% / 30 RANA 125 / 68

Response:

>It’s so amazing how someone can regress

I’ve felt that way before. I thought "Why can’t this fucking idiot see what a fucking idiot he is?" I rolled the idea around for a few minutes before the reality set in: I was talking about a fucking idiot. Should I expect a fucking idiot to behave in a way contrary to a fucking idiot? ~christyn.

Response:

> I’m eagerly awaiting your next logorrhoeic discourse.

Logorrheic. Very cool. | One entry found for logorrhea. | | Main Entry: log

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In: Digital Camera

LV: Got the board!

Question:

Looks good. Can’t wait to light it up. It’ll be the heart of a computer-based recording rig. Looking forward to something simpler than the conventional stuff (not that it isn’t great, but sometimes, you just want to keep it simple…) It’s sort of like having a good, light, digital camera for times when you don’t want to lug around the 35mm and 20 pounds of extra lenses. Best, Freep

Response:

> Looks good. Can’t wait to light it up. > It’ll be the heart of a computer-based recording rig. Looking forward to > something simpler than the conventional stuff (not that it isn’t great, > but > sometimes, you just want to keep it simple…) > It’s sort of like having a good, light, digital camera for times when you > don’t want to lug around the 35mm and 20 pounds of extra lenses. > Best, > Freep

Freep, What kind of board is it.. ? ? I must’ve missed the original thread… I’ve got an old Mackie 1604 (??) that I’m hoping to use in a home/gig recording rig… still crawling along with stuff that’s *higher* on the to-do list… gtski

Response:

I got it from LV, I was just letting him know it got here fine. Don’t know if you saw it, but a couple weeks ago he posted a bunch of stuff he had to sell, among which was a Topaz 12-2, I think it’s called. It’s a neat little board; all the good stuff, phantom power, well lit displays, dual effects send/receive, balanced both cannon and TRS connectors, etc, which your smaller, inexpensive boards tend to skimp on. I patched an open reel tape deck into it, to try out the levels and all that, and patched a Lexicon into the effect send to try that out. Works well. Now I’m going to have to do some recording. Another adventure begins, Freep

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Looks good. Can’t wait to light it up. > It’ll be the heart of a computer-based recording rig. Looking forward to > something simpler than the conventional stuff (not that it isn’t great, > but > sometimes, you just want to keep it simple…) > It’s sort of like having a good, light, digital camera for times when you > don’t want to lug around the 35mm and 20 pounds of extra lenses. > Best, > Freep > Freep, What kind of board is it.. ? ? I must’ve missed the original > thread… > I’ve got an old Mackie 1604 (??) that I’m hoping to use in a home/gig > recording rig… still crawling along > with stuff that’s *higher* on the to-do list… > gtski

Response:

not enough he talks to himself now he’s sendin stuff to himself

: I got it from LV, I was just letting him know it got here fine. Don’t know : if you saw it, but a couple weeks ago he posted a bunch of stuff he had to : sell, among which was a Topaz 12-2, I think it’s called. It’s a neat little : board; all the good stuff, phantom power, well lit displays, dual effects : send/receive, balanced both cannon and TRS connectors, etc, which your : smaller, inexpensive boards tend to skimp on. I patched an open reel tape : deck into it, to try out the levels and all that, and patched a Lexicon into : the effect send to try that out. Works well. Now I’m going to have to do : some recording. : : Another adventure begins, : : Freep :

: > : > > Looks good. Can’t wait to light it up. : > > : > > It’ll be the heart of a computer-based recording rig. Looking forward to : > > something simpler than the conventional stuff (not that it isn’t great, : > > but : > > sometimes, you just want to keep it simple…) : > > : > > It’s sort of like having a good, light, digital camera for times when : you : > > don’t want to lug around the 35mm and 20 pounds of extra lenses. : > > : > > Best, : > > : > > Freep : > > : > > : > : > Freep, What kind of board is it.. ? ? I must’ve missed the original : > thread… : > : > I’ve got an old Mackie 1604 (??) that I’m hoping to use in a home/gig : > recording rig… still crawling along : > with stuff that’s *higher* on the to-do list… : > : > gtski : > : > : :

Response:

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In: Digital Camera

The ugly face of America

Question:

> The crusaders had come before, they slaughtered 10’s of thousands and > occupied Jerusalem for 88 years. Read history and you will come to know that > your days, months or even years are numbered, and that one day a group of > true strong Muslims will lead the millions of us who are anxious to kick > your asses off our lands and make Islam, the faith of Allah, rule the world > again as it did for centuries. > Until then, I guess few beheadings will cause some disturbance to your ego. > Try live with it

Islam never ruled the world for centuries. You’d better read some history yourself, buddy.

Response:

You wanted a war with the west and now you have one. I don’t think Islam is doing so well if all they can do is attack innocent civilians and blow themselves up. Militant Islam is on the way out. You think the slaughter during the crusades was bad ? You haven’t seen nothing yet.

Response:

The crusaders had come before, they slaughtered 10’s of thousands and occupied Jerusalem for 88 years. Read history and you will come to know that your days, months or even years are numbered, and that one day a group of true strong Muslims will lead the millions of us who are anxious to kick your asses off our lands and make Islam, the faith of Allah, rule the world again as it did for centuries. Until then, I guess few beheadings will cause some disturbance to your ego. Try live with it

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The ugly face of America > As the images of brutal and horrifying tales of torture and > maltreatment of Iraqi prisoners at the hands of the US occupied > forces, primarily at the Abu Ghraib prison, are exposing the ugly side > of America before the international community, the Bush administration > and his much pampered Secretary of Defence Rumsfeld seems to be > totally oblivious of the damage which they have caused to America’s > image, not only in the Arab world but also in countries which are a > party to the so-called coalition for war against terrorism. > Why don’t you show some pictures of the beheaded Nick Berg. That will > help your cause. Now even the middle-of-the-road people hate your > religion.

Response:

tell me what the fuck he was doing there?so he had to be worry of the consequences

Response:

> The ugly face of America > As the images of brutal and horrifying tales of torture and > maltreatment of Iraqi prisoners at the hands of the US occupied > forces, primarily at the Abu Ghraib prison, are exposing the ugly side > of America before the international community, the Bush administration > and his much pampered Secretary of Defence Rumsfeld seems to be > totally oblivious of the damage which they have caused to America’s > image, not only in the Arab world but also in countries which are a > party to the so-called coalition for war against terrorism.

Why don’t you show some pictures of the beheaded Nick Berg. That will help your cause. Now even the middle-of-the-road people hate your religion.

Response:

The ugly face of America As the images of brutal and horrifying tales of torture and maltreatment of Iraqi prisoners at the hands of the US occupied forces, primarily at the Abu Ghraib prison, are exposing the ugly side of America before the international community, the Bush administration and his much pampered Secretary of Defence Rumsfeld seems to be totally oblivious of the damage which they have caused to America’s image, not only in the Arab world but also in countries which are a party to the so-called coalition for war against terrorism. http://www.jang.com.pk/thenews/may2004-daily/18-05-2004/oped/o1.htm

Response:

If the brutality was exposed through photographs in Abu Gharib( http://www.antiwar.com/news/?articleid=2444 ) then there must have been a lot more such acts where there was not camera men. Like them, lets not generalize the whole US and alliance public for such brutal acts and attacks on other countries, otherwise there would be no difference in us and them who blame Muslims and Islam as terrorist, because of a few universally condemned men so called Muslims who may be raged from revenge of their murdered families (victims of military terrorism by USA and Israel) or politically motivated ( Hippocrates ). Let

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In: Camera Tripod

newegg.com for music?

Question:

Whenever I need computer parts, I go to a website caller newegg.com, because they can usually be counted on to have th best price on most things (that’s not a plug for them, I just have always found it to be the case), and pretty good service. When I look at music stores online though, they all seem to be the same site with different graphics. Is there a good online music store that anyone here has dealt with that isn’t another "musician’sfriend, zoounds, music123" clone?

Response:

> that isn’t another "musician’sfriend, zoounds, music123" clone?

What’s wrong with those sites? I’d say MF is the newegg of guitars.

Response:

I use New egg all the time.. Hard drives, Digital Cameras, CDR, and DVD, Mother boards, PDA, External Hard drives, Video Card etc.. I like them because they have Multi Pics of all products so you can see what your object looks like and many items have User product reviews from people like us that have bought from them. Although I think they weed out… Overall they shipp quikly..I have spent a few grand there this year updating my studio and have only had good reports.. After I bought my Sony Digital Camera I saw it was cheeper a week later and they refunded me the difference within 3 days. So far so Good.. And you can call and talk to an English speaking person if shit goes south for some reason. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> that isn’t another "musician’sfriend, zoounds, music123" clone? > What’s wrong with those sites? I’d say MF is the newegg of guitars.

Response:

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In: Digital Camera

digital camera for cruises

Question:

I am seriously looking to buy a digital camera to take on my next cruise in January. I need to go ahead and buy it so I can use it with ease. I hate to miss shots. I usually use 15-20 rolls of film on a one week cruise. My question- I am looking at the Konica Minolta Dimage Z3(4.2mp -12x zoom) and the Canon Powershot S1 Is(3.2mp-10x zoom). Altho the Casio EX-Z40 (4.0mp -3x zoom)has also come highly recommended for its size & big 2" screen, I use a Pentax IQZomm 160 now and have gotten real attached to my zoom lens. I will have all the best shots printed for a photo album. (I can’t imagine not being able to grab an album to show!) I have read so many camera reviews, my head is spinning. Can you please cut to the chase of it for me and tell me what works best. Or if you were going to buy a new one today, which one would you buy and why? Thanks for you time. album Can you say obsessive?:0)

Response:

Over the years, I’ve progressed from a large Nikon 35mm with multi zoom lenses to where I’m at today. A Canon Elf digital. To me, nothing beats tiny. I want a camera that I can keep in my pocket all the time. I rarely use the screen – it kills batteries too quickly – in 10-20 shots or so the batteries are dead. I just use the traditional eyepiece to view. I might get 60 or more shots on a battery that way. I have 4 batteries that I keep charged and bring with me. While I’d like more than 2x zoom, I’d rather have tiny, so I work with it. To me, if you don’t have the camera, you can’t take the picture. With a camera the size of my wallet, I can keep it with me all the time. Bigger cameras might take better pictures, but not if you don’t have it with you. Often I’m the only one with a camera all the time. The one real weakness to me is the size of the flash. It won’t light up a large area. But the pictures are great. And mine’s so old, it’s only a 2.1 mega pixel. –Tom

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I am seriously looking to buy a digital camera to take on my next cruise in > January. I need to go ahead and buy it so I can use it with ease. I hate > to miss shots. > I usually use 15-20 rolls of film on a one week cruise. > My question- I am looking at the Konica Minolta Dimage Z3(4.2mp -12x > zoom) and the Canon Powershot S1 Is(3.2mp-10x zoom). Altho the Casio > EX-Z40 (4.0mp -3x zoom)has also come highly recommended for its size & big > 2" screen, I use a Pentax IQZomm 160 now and have gotten real attached to > my zoom lens. I will have all the best shots printed for a photo album. > (I can’t imagine not being able to grab an album to show!) > I have read so many camera reviews, my head is spinning. Can you please > cut to the chase of it for me and tell me what works best. Or if you were > going to buy a new one today, which one would you buy and why? > Thanks for you time. > album Can you say obsessive?:0)

Response:

Are the zoom lenses optical zoom or digital zoom? Optical zoom is much better since you are actually magnifying the image. With digital zoom, you are actually just cropping and enlarging the photo, and interpolating what the pixels in the middle are. This will cause blurrier images at high zooms. — I’m Tom Smith, and I approved this message.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I am seriously looking to buy a digital camera to take on my next cruise in > January. I need to go ahead and buy it so I can use it with ease. I hate > to miss shots. > I usually use 15-20 rolls of film on a one week cruise. > My question- I am looking at the Konica Minolta Dimage Z3(4.2mp -12x > zoom) and the Canon Powershot S1 Is(3.2mp-10x zoom). Altho the Casio > EX-Z40 (4.0mp -3x zoom)has also come highly recommended for its size & big > 2" screen, I use a Pentax IQZomm 160 now and have gotten real attached to > my zoom lens. I will have all the best shots printed for a photo album. > (I can’t imagine not being able to grab an album to show!) > I have read so many camera reviews, my head is spinning. Can you please > cut to the chase of it for me and tell me what works best. Or if you were > going to buy a new one today, which one would you buy and why? > Thanks for you time. > album Can you say obsessive?:0)

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >I am seriously looking to buy a digital camera to take on my next cruise in >January. I need to go ahead and buy it so I can use it with ease. I hate >to miss shots. >I usually use 15-20 rolls of film on a one week cruise. >My question- I am looking at the Konica Minolta Dimage Z3(4.2mp -12x >zoom) and the Canon Powershot S1 Is(3.2mp-10x zoom). Altho the Casio >EX-Z40 (4.0mp -3x zoom)has also come highly recommended for its size & big >2" screen, I use a Pentax IQZomm 160 now and have gotten real attached to >my zoom lens. I will have all the best shots printed for a photo album. >(I can’t imagine not being able to grab an album to show!) >I have read so many camera reviews, my head is spinning. Can you please >cut to the chase of it for me and tell me what works best. Or if you were >going to buy a new one today, which one would you buy and why? >Thanks for you time. >album Can you say obsessive?:0)

Whatever digital camera you buy you will need a really big storage medium or a way to copy it. I have only 128MB and it will hold over a hundred pics depending on choice of resolution. 256 or even 512mb are pretty reasonable nowadays. Next cruise I’ll probably take our laptop and even burn some of the pictures to CD just for safekeeping. Editing etc will wait until we come home.

Response:

Hi, I bought a Kodak 7590 just before we went on a cruise on the 11th of this month. I love it! It has a 10x optical zoom Schneider-Kruznach lens and a 2.2 inch viewing screen. It is a 5.0 mega pixel camera with 32 meg internal memory. With a 512 meg SDcard I can get 319 pictures all at 5meg. I paid $499 for it a Bestbuy but Sam’s has it for $455. Also at Sam’s you can bring it back after 30 days if you don’t like it. You can look at some of the pictures I took on our cruise if you like. Keep in mine I didn’t use any of the special settings only auto. If you have any questions I would be more that happy to answer them if I can. Click here to see photos > www.sonnyv.smugmug.com Sonny and Esther

Response:

We’re doing the same. For the record, my husband already has a 5 megapixel Sony DSC- something, I have a Pentax SLR (film) with a variety of lenses. But we want a nice quality smaller camera. We’re looking seriously at the Olympus Camedia C-765 and C-770. both highly reated by Consumer Reports, both 4 megapixel (plenty for blowing up as far as 11 by 14, which is the largest we will ever do) both with 10X optical zoom. for us the clincher is that for a couple hundred you can buy a waterproof housing and we have a digital underwater camera. Julie – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I am seriously looking to buy a digital camera to take on my next cruise in > January. I need to go ahead and buy it so I can use it with ease. I hate > to miss shots. > I usually use 15-20 rolls of film on a one week cruise. > My question- I am looking at the Konica Minolta Dimage Z3(4.2mp -12x > zoom) and the Canon Powershot S1 Is(3.2mp-10x zoom). Altho the Casio > EX-Z40 (4.0mp -3x zoom)has also come highly recommended for its size & big > 2" screen, I use a Pentax IQZomm 160 now and have gotten real attached to > my zoom lens. I will have all the best shots printed for a photo album. > (I can’t imagine not being able to grab an album to show!) > I have read so many camera reviews, my head is spinning. Can you please > cut to the chase of it for me and tell me what works best. Or if you were > going to buy a new one today, which one would you buy and why? > Thanks for you time. > album Can you say obsessive?:0)

– Julie Check out my Travel Pages (non-commercial) at http://www.dragonsholm.org/travel.htm

Response:

That’s the reason I was considering the Casio. It is very small with 4mp.

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Tom Smith, The Minolta is 12X Optical w/4X digital zoom. The Canon is 10X Opitcal w. 3.2 digital. thanks for pointing out the difference in zooms. I didn’t know. They also take AA batteries which is a plus. But what about the diffence in the 4.2 and the 3.2 megapixels? Will it really make a big diffence in the pictures? I occasionally have 8×10 enlargements made but very rarely anything bigger. Sheila

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Sonny, Very nice pictures. Can you manually decide if you want to use the flash or not?

Response:

Ok now, I am not an unintelligent person. But I cannot for the life of me figure out how to put the poster message in my reply so we all know what I am responding to. It won’t let me copy and paste. Help!

Response:

I’m on my 2nd digital, here’s some thoughts. Small physically is good, I really appreciate a pocket size camera. But if you’re used to lugging a camera and accessories everywhere then …. Get some rechargeable NiMh (sp?) batteries, two sets so you always have a charged set ready. They last a LOT longer. Optical zoom is a must, the digital zoom is basically useless (my opinion), you can always crop at home. If you get a really high zoom factor (10x) make sure the camera has some kind of image stabilization support, at that zoom its hard to keep things steady. Check the shutter delay time, it’s the most annoying thing I’ve found on digital cameras, its caused me many ‘lost’ shots. I’ve found digitals exceptionally good at natural light night shots, I’ve got many good shots that would have been impossible with a film camera. You never have enough memory cards, especially with the high megapixel cameras if you use the hi-res settings. George

Response:

Great pictures, Sonny and Esther. Ermalee – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Hi, >I bought a Kodak 7590 just before we went on a cruise on the 11th of this >month. I love it! It has a 10x optical zoom Schneider-Kruznach lens and a >2.2 inch viewing screen. It is a 5.0 mega pixel camera with 32 meg internal >memory. With a 512 meg SDcard I can get 319 pictures all at 5meg. I paid >$499 for it a Bestbuy but Sam’s has it for $455. Also at Sam’s you can >bring it back after 30 days if you don’t like it. You can look at some of >the pictures I took on our cruise if you like. Keep in mine I didn’t use >any of the special settings only auto. If you have any questions I would >be more that happy to answer them if I can. >Click here to see photos > www.sonnyv.smugmug.com >Sonny and Esther

Response:

I have one of the older Camedia’s (the 730) and totally love it. The 10x optical zoom has come in very handy, especially on a cruise, and with a little table top tripod you don’t have to worry about camera shake on the deck.The only downside is the flash really isn’t powerful enough for the camera, but I got the external FL-40 (now replaced by the FL-50 flash) and it’s totally incredible. I very highly recommend this camera, if somebody took it from me today I would have no trouble either getting one of the 765 or 770’s or getting a used one on e-bay. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> We’re doing the same. For the record, my husband already has a 5 megapixel > Sony DSC- something, I have a Pentax SLR (film) with a variety of lenses. > But we want a nice quality smaller camera. > We’re looking seriously at the Olympus Camedia C-765 and C-770. both highly > reated by Consumer Reports, both 4 megapixel (plenty for blowing up as far as > 11 by 14, which is the largest we will ever do) both with 10X optical zoom. > for us the clincher is that for a couple hundred you can buy a waterproof > housing and we have a digital underwater camera. > Julie > I am seriously looking to buy a digital camera to take on my next cruise in > January. I need to go ahead and buy it so I can use it with ease. I hate > to miss shots. > I usually use 15-20 rolls of film on a one week cruise. > My question- I am looking at the Konica Minolta Dimage Z3(4.2mp -12x > zoom) and the Canon Powershot S1 Is(3.2mp-10x zoom). Altho the Casio > EX-Z40 (4.0mp -3x zoom)has also come highly recommended for its size & big > 2" screen, I use a Pentax IQZomm 160 now and have gotten real attached to > my zoom lens. I will have all the best shots printed for a photo album. > (I can’t imagine not being able to grab an album to show!) > I have read so many camera reviews, my head is spinning. Can you please > cut to the chase of it for me and tell me what works best. Or if you were > going to buy a new one today, which one would you buy and why? > Thanks for you time. photo > album Can you say obsessive?:0) > — > Julie > Check out my Travel Pages (non-commercial) at > http://www.dragonsholm.org/travel.htm

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> Whatever digital camera you buy you will need a really big storage > medium or a way to copy it. I have only 128MB and it will hold over a > hundred pics depending on choice of resolution. 256 or even 512mb are > pretty reasonable nowadays. Next cruise I’ll probably take our laptop > and even burn some of the pictures to CD just for safekeeping. Editing > etc will wait until we come home.

Just last night I was perusing a Herrington catalog that came in the mail. They listed a neat gadget that would eliminate the need for carrying a laptop for storing digital pix. See: http://store.yahoo.com/herrington-catalog/p103.html. It is a device that stores pix from your card and can also burn them to a CD and/or show them on a TV. It can also play DVDs and audio CDs. I have no affiliation with Herrington, have never ordered from them or anything. It just struck me, as a gadget freak, as being kind of neat. Having said all that, I think I’m going to stick with 35mm on our upcoming cruise so I don’t have to worry about batteries, photo storage and such. I can’t afford a through-the-lens viewer digital and I like my old manual focus SLR. Paul Johnson

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I am seriously looking to buy a digital camera to take on my next cruise in > January. I need to go ahead and buy it so I can use it with ease. I hate > to miss shots. > I usually use 15-20 rolls of film on a one week cruise. > My question- I am looking at the Konica Minolta Dimage Z3(4.2mp -12x > zoom) and the Canon Powershot S1 Is(3.2mp-10x zoom). Altho the Casio > EX-Z40 (4.0mp -3x zoom)has also come highly recommended for its size & big > 2" screen, I use a Pentax IQZomm 160 now and have gotten real attached to > my zoom lens. I will have all the best shots printed for a photo album. > (I can’t imagine not being able to grab an album to show!) > I have read so many camera reviews, my head is spinning. Can you please > cut to the chase of it for me and tell me what works best. Or if you were > going to buy a new one today, which one would you buy and why? > Thanks for you time. > album Can you say obsessive?:0)

What you want in a digital camera depends on what you want to spend. Sort of like buying a car. Would be nice to own a Hummer but 10,000 wont buy one. Decide how much money you are willing to spend then here are the options I would recommend: 1. Get the camera with maximum OPTICAL zoom within your budget. Digital zoom does squat. Minimum optical zoom you want is 3. 5-7 would be ideal. 2. Maximize on the memory. You will want to take many pictures so get at least 512MB of memory for your camera. 3. Make sure you get at least 2 sets of RECHARGABLE batteries and a charger. You will be amazed at how may pics you take and how fast batteries die. 4. Maximize on the MP. I would want one no lower than 4. 5MP makes very nice pictures. I have a SonyP92 – 5MP 3xOptical and it took beautiful photos on our cruise in Feb’04.

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> Sonny, > Very nice pictures. Can you manually decide if you want to use the > flash or not?

Yes, you can choose. It even has a mode to take pictures in a dark setting without the flash. Also the flash pops up on top of the camera which is where the flash should be.

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> I’m on my 2nd digital, here’s some thoughts. > Small physically is good, I really appreciate a pocket size camera. But

if you’re used to lugging a camera and accessories everywhere then …. > Get some rechargeable NiMh (sp?) batteries, two sets so you always have > a charged set ready. They last a LOT longer.

Definitely NiMH batteries. But get a charger that can "condition" the batteries, if needed, before charging. In my experience it can make a big difference in how many pictures you can take per charge. I got such a charger along with the batteries from Thomas Distributing on the web. http://www.thomasdistributing.com It’s called a MAHA charger.

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Sonny, > Very nice pictures. Can you manually decide if you want to use the >flash or not? >Yes, you can choose. It even has a mode to take pictures in a dark setting >without the flash. Also the flash pops up on top of the camera which is >where the flash should be.

Speaking as a professional, flash on top of the camera is the last place you want it. It’s almost a guarantee for "red eye". The ideal position for flash is side mounted, with the ability to bounce it off the ceiling. Some digital cameras have provisions for an axillary flash that is side mounted. If a camera has a high enough ISO rating that will only introduce minimal noise, you really won’t need flash at all. — To email me, Edit "xt" from my email address. Brian M. Kochera "Some mistakes are too much fun to only make once!" View My Web Page: http://home.earthlink.net/~brian1951

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> Over the years, I’ve progressed from a large Nikon 35mm with multi zoom > lenses to where I’m at today. A Canon Elf digital. To me, nothing beats > tiny. I want a camera that I can keep in my pocket all the time.

You would like my Pentax Optio S4. It fits in an Altoids box. Amazing features for such a tiny camera. Downside is light gathering ability in low light situations, and it is a proprietary battery. Can’t be beat for a go anywhere camera, though.

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> Tom Smith, > The Minolta is 12X Optical w/4X digital zoom. The Canon is 10X Opitcal > w. 3.2 digital. thanks for pointing out the difference in zooms. I > didn’t know. > They also take AA batteries which is a plus. But what about the > diffence in the 4.2 and the 3.2 megapixels? Will it really make a big > diffence in the pictures? I occasionally have 8×10 enlargements made but > very rarely anything bigger. > Sheila

You can get some good info by googling rec.photo.digital for those 2 cameras. Unfortunately, 5 megapixels is not always better than 4 megapixels when you are comparing 2 different types of cameras. There are too many other things to consider. Optical zoom and other factors can easily make up the difference in megapixels. You can have 2 cars that both have a V8 engine, but how they perform and handle will be different based on the rest of the vehicle. It seems with digitals, the emphasis has gone to number of megapixels as opposed to quality of the optics/processors involved.

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I have one of the older Camedia’s (the 730) and totally love it. The 10x >optical zoom has come in very handy, especially on a cruise, and with a >little table top tripod you don’t have to worry about camera shake on the >deck.The only downside is the flash really isn’t powerful enough for the >camera, but I got the external FL-40 (now replaced by the FL-50 flash) and >it’s totally incredible. >I very highly recommend this camera, if somebody took it from me today I >would have no trouble either getting one of the 765 or 770’s or getting a >used one on e-bay. >We’re doing the same. For the record, my husband already has a 5 >megapixel >Sony DSC- something, I have a Pentax SLR (film) with a variety of lenses. >But we want a nice quality smaller camera. >We’re looking seriously at the Olympus Camedia C-765 and C-770. both >highly >reated by Consumer Reports, both 4 megapixel (plenty for blowing up as far >as >11 by 14, which is the largest we will ever do) both with 10X optical >zoom. >for us the clincher is that for a couple hundred you can buy a waterproof >housing and we have a digital underwater camera. >Julie >>I am seriously looking to buy a digital camera to take on my next cruise >in >>January. I need to go ahead and buy it so I can use it with ease. I >hate >>to miss shots. >>I usually use 15-20 rolls of film on a one week cruise. >>My question- I am looking at the Konica Minolta Dimage Z3(4.2mp -12x >>zoom) and the Canon Powershot S1 Is(3.2mp-10x zoom). Altho the Casio >>EX-Z40 (4.0mp -3x zoom)has also come highly recommended for its size & >big >>2" screen, I use a Pentax IQZomm 160 now and have gotten real attached >to >>my zoom lens. I will have all the best shots printed for a photo album. >>(I can’t imagine not being able to grab an album to show!) >>I have read so many camera reviews, my head is spinning. Can you please >>cut to the chase of it for me and tell me what works best. Or if you >were >>going to buy a new one today, which one would you buy and why? >>Thanks for you time. >photo >>album Can you say obsessive?:0) >– >Julie >Check out my Travel Pages (non-commercial) at >http://www.dragonsholm.org/travel.htm

I’ve been using an Olympus Camedia C-4000 4mp for artistic applications. It has the option of using rechargeable AA batteries or Lithium ones. The Lithium last longer and cost more. These are the ones I use on a cruise. For smaller prints I use an HP Photosmart 7760w photo printer. I’ve been able to pull sharp 16 x 20 images out of this camera. Those I farm out to a pro service. When the cost and weight goes down, I will probably supplement with a Digital SLR. My base (film) camera is a Cannon Ftb 35mm. I also have an old Argus that I like to use for black and white applications. What’s right for you? Consider your applications – what is the primary use? Are you a techie who likes to have total image control? Or, are you more comfortable with a camera that does all the thinking with simple controls? Very lightweight cameras have one drawback. They require an extremely steady trigger finger. Tripods are good in some settings, but they can also be impractical. Everybody is different, but if it’s sharp pictures you want, you need some weight. After hefting 4 lb SLRs with 208 zoom and 4x tele-extenders, I like a little weight. But as an average 6 oz to 8 oz is good. Always check it out in a store. Get what feels good and allows you to make the kind of pictures you want. If you don’t like the store price, you can always shop online after you’ve decided on make and model. Consumers Reports is good for Dishwashers, Refrigerators, and Autos. But, for things technical I like Cnet. Cnet allows you to do side-by-side comparisons of just the items you consider. They also have links to the makers of the products, and "where-to-buy" links. Even if you don’t share my bias, Cnet is a good tech news and shopping resource. Check it out before you buy. — To email me, Edit "xt" from my email address. Brian M. Kochera "Some mistakes are too much fun to only make once!" View My Web Page: http://home.earthlink.net/~brian1951

Response:

Hi I agree with Mike. After reading many responses to the original question, I submit my liking: I have an Olympus C50zoom. It is 5 MP, I used two 256 photo cards on each cruise; it is light weight and compact; I use the highest resolution; I am most pleased with the camera and find that even 3X optical zoom is plenty. Additional zoom will increase the size and weight also. I store my albums on Ofoto, and share albums with friends. Also, before I store the albums into Ofoto, I also make a CD (with picture captions) . Van in Texas 36 cruises world-wide

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I am seriously looking to buy a digital camera to take on my next cruise > in > January. I need to go ahead and buy it so I can use it with ease. I > hate > to miss shots. > I usually use 15-20 rolls of film on a one week cruise. > My question- I am looking at the Konica Minolta Dimage Z3(4.2mp -12x > zoom) and the Canon Powershot S1 Is(3.2mp-10x zoom). Altho the Casio > EX-Z40 (4.0mp -3x zoom)has also come highly recommended for its size & > big > 2" screen, I use a Pentax IQZomm 160 now and have gotten real attached to > my zoom lens. I will have all the best shots printed for a photo album. > (I can’t imagine not being able to grab an album to show!) I have read so > many camera reviews, my head is spinning. Can you please > cut to the chase of it for me and tell me what works best. Or if you were > going to buy a new one today, which one would you buy and why? > dated, and in a photo > album Can you say obsessive?:0) > What you want in a digital camera depends on what you want to spend. Sort > of like buying a car. Would be nice to own a Hummer but 10,000 wont buy > one. Decide how much money you are willing to spend then here are the > options I would recommend: > 1. Get the camera with maximum OPTICAL zoom within your budget. Digital > zoom does squat. Minimum optical zoom you want is 3. 5-7 would be ideal. > 2. Maximize on the memory. You will want to take many pictures so get at > least 512MB of memory for your camera. > 3. Make sure you get at least 2 sets of RECHARGABLE batteries and a > charger. You will be amazed at how may pics you take and how fast > batteries die. > 4. Maximize on the MP. I would want one no lower than 4. 5MP makes very > nice pictures. > I have a SonyP92 – 5MP 3xOptical and it took beautiful photos on our > cruise in Feb’04.

Response:

> I have read so many camera reviews, my head is spinning. Can you please > cut to the chase of it for me and tell me what works best. Or if you were > going to buy a new one today, which one would you buy and why? > Thanks for you time.

I understand why your head is spinning, but you will be happiest choosing on your own. Even if you get a Canon Rebel, a very nice and expensive camera, you will probably find things you don’t like about it. Pick a manufacturer with some experience producing nice cameras and go out and try taking a few shots with them. You can do this right in the store and get an idea if you like the way it operates. How does the camera fit in -your- hand, how easy is it to work the controls/zoom and change the settings, how long is the delay from pressing the shutter button to the actual opening of the lens for the photo (this can be very frustrating if it is slow and you are taking an action type shot), how does it perform in low light, how easy is it to carry, how expensive are additional memory cards and batteries, does the body of the camera feel well put together, figure out what -you- want out of it. I really enjoyed my old, higher end Kodak digital until I decided it was too big to keep handy. Accept that there will be pluses and minuses to -anything- you choose.

Response:

Does anyone know which reasonably compact digital camera has the fastest shutter release? I have missed too many good shots of my grandchildren waiting on the shutter. John

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I am seriously looking to buy a digital camera to take on my next > cruise in January. I need to go ahead and buy it so I can use it with > ease. I hate to miss shots. > I usually use 15-20 rolls of film on a one week cruise. > My question- I am looking at the Konica Minolta Dimage Z3(4.2mp -12x > zoom) and the Canon Powershot S1 Is(3.2mp-10x zoom). Altho the Casio > EX-Z40 (4.0mp -3x zoom)has also come highly recommended for its size & > big 2" screen, I use a Pentax IQZomm 160 now and have gotten real > attached to my zoom lens. I will have all the best shots printed for > a photo album. (I can’t imagine not being able to grab an album to > show!) > I have read so many camera reviews, my head is spinning. Can you > please cut to the chase of it for me and tell me what works best. Or > if you were going to buy a new one today, which one would you buy and > why? Thanks for you time. > photo album Can you say obsessive?:0)

For what it is worth I am leaning toward the Z3 myself. I have played around with it in a store and am about to make the plunge. the 4mp is a real boon over the 3.2 especially if you start getting digital zoom which essentially eats up photo quality. (difference between a 8×10 or a 4×6 max high quality print) You will appreciate the 12x zoom as well optical is much better than digital zoom.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I am seriously looking to buy a digital camera to take on my next cruise in > January. I need to go ahead and buy it so I can use it with ease. I hate > to miss shots. > I usually use 15-20 rolls of film on a one week cruise. > My question- I am looking at the Konica Minolta Dimage Z3(4.2mp -12x > zoom) and the Canon Powershot S1 Is(3.2mp-10x zoom). Altho the Casio > EX-Z40 (4.0mp -3x zoom)has also come highly recommended for its size & big > 2" screen, I use a Pentax IQZomm 160 now and have gotten real attached to > my zoom lens. I will have all the best shots printed for a photo album. > (I can’t imagine not being able to grab an album to show!) > I have read so many camera reviews, my head is spinning. Can you please > cut to the chase of it for me and tell me what works best. Or if you were > going to buy a new one today, which one would you buy and why? > Thanks for you time. > album Can you say obsessive?:0)

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– Julie Check out my Travel Pages (non-commercial) at http://www.dragonsholm.org/travel.htm

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That’s the reason I was considering the Casio. It is very small with 4mp.

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Sonny, Very nice pictures. Can you manually decide if you want to use the flash or not?

Response:

> Sonny, > Very nice pictures. Can you manually decide if you want to use the > flash or not?

Yes, you can choose. It even has a mode to take pictures in a dark setting without the flash. Also the flash pops up on top of the camera which is where the flash should be.

Response:

> I’m on my 2nd digital, here’s some thoughts. > Small physically is good, I really appreciate a pocket size camera. But

if you’re used to lugging a camera and accessories everywhere then …. > Get some rechargeable NiMh (sp?) batteries, two sets so you always have > a charged set ready. They last a LOT longer.

Response:

Does anyone know which reasonably compact digital camera has the fastest shutter release? I have missed too many good shots of my grandchildren waiting on the shutter. John

Response:

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In: Digital Camera

Transmission Dip Stick for Late Model GM Cars

Question:

Does anyone know of a company make an after market Transmission Dip Stick for Late Model GM Cars that are built without one? I would find this a useful addition to allow me to check fluid level and add fluid if necessary. TIA, Larry

Response:

> Does anyone know of a company make an after market Transmission Dip > Stick for Late Model GM Cars that are built without one? > I would find this a useful addition to allow me to check fluid level > and add fluid if necessary. > TIA, > Larry

Don’t know of any that are built without one unless it’s a manual trans. Want to, oh I don’t know, MAYBE MENTION WHAT KIND OF VEHICLE YOU WANT INFO ABOUT? HeHe, really, that would be helpful as all get-out…..

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Does anyone know of a company make an after market Transmission Dip > Stick for Late Model GM Cars that are built without one? > I would find this a useful addition to allow me to check fluid level > and add fluid if necessary. > TIA, > Larry > Don’t know of any that are built without one unless it’s a manual > trans. Want to, oh I don’t know, MAYBE MENTION WHAT KIND OF VEHICLE > YOU WANT INFO ABOUT? > HeHe, really, that would be helpful as all get-out…..

http://lokar.com/interior_pages/transdipstick.htm

Response:

1999 Pontiac Grand Am 3.4L V6 Auto and 2002 Sunfire 2.2L ECOTECH Auto. I was under the impression that GM had discontinued the dip stick in all of their late model cars. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>Does anyone know of a company make an after market Transmission Dip >>Stick for Late Model GM Cars that are built without one? >>I would find this a useful addition to allow me to check fluid level >>and add fluid if necessary. >>TIA, >>Larry >Don’t know of any that are built without one unless it’s a manual >trans. Want to, oh I don’t know, MAYBE MENTION WHAT KIND OF VEHICLE >YOU WANT INFO ABOUT? >HeHe, really, that would be helpful as all get-out….. > http://lokar.com/interior_pages/transdipstick.htm

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->> Does anyone know of a company make an after market Transmission Dip >> Stick for Late Model GM Cars that are built without one? >> I would find this a useful addition to allow me to check fluid level >> and add fluid if necessary. >> TIA, >> Larry > Don’t know of any that are built without one unless it’s a manual > trans. Want to, oh I don’t know, MAYBE MENTION WHAT KIND OF VEHICLE > YOU WANT INFO ABOUT? > HeHe, really, that would be helpful as all get-out….. > http://lokar.com/interior_pages/transdipstick.htm

those are just custom accesories. I don’t know of any automatic transmission equipped vehicle that doesn’t come with a dipstick. — It is better to burn out than to fade away. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

Response:

> those are just custom accesories. I don’t know of any automatic > transmission equipped vehicle that doesn’t come with a dipstick.

GM’s have not had dipsticks for about 5 years now. I don’t know of any retrofits though.

Response:

> those are just custom accesories. I don’t know of any automatic > transmission equipped vehicle that doesn’t come with a dipstick.

Well, wait until you get a newer Cavalier. Then you will all of a sudden become quite aware of an automatic transmission that doesn’t come with a dipstick. Ian

Response:

No, this can’t be done. There is a fill plug at the top of your transmission (big red cap). And once you figure out where the level checking plug is….this system actually works quite well, and you are guaranteed "not" to overfill the trans. Ian

Response:

>> those are just custom accesories. I don’t know of any automatic > transmission equipped vehicle that doesn’t come with a dipstick. > GM’s have not had dipsticks for about 5 years now. > I don’t know of any retrofits though.

Our 2001 Impala has one.

Response:

> 1999 Pontiac Grand Am 3.4L V6 Auto and 2002 Sunfire 2.2L ECOTECH Auto. > I was under the impression that GM had discontinued the dip stick in all > of their late model cars.

Our 2001 Impala and 2000 S10 both have them.

Response:

> those are just custom accesories. I don’t know of any automatic > transmission equipped vehicle that doesn’t come with a dipstick. > Well, wait until you get a newer Cavalier. Then you will all of > a sudden become quite aware of an automatic transmission that > doesn’t come with a dipstick. > Ian

I wasn’t aware of that. I guess i’m just old school. — It is better to burn out than to fade away. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->> those are just custom accesories. I don’t know of any automatic >> transmission equipped vehicle that doesn’t come with a dipstick. > Well, wait until you get a newer Cavalier. Then you will all of > a sudden become quite aware of an automatic transmission that > doesn’t come with a dipstick. > Ian > I wasn’t aware of that. I guess i’m just old school.

Same here. I was amazed and appalled when I found out that GM was building cars without such an obviously necessary part no longer there. I guess a person could pull the pan, weld in an adapter, and then use one of those Lokar O-ring dipsticks. Or depending on the fill-hole maybe install one there. How long until the hood can’t be opened without a special tool that only GM dealers have?

Response:

> How long until the hood can’t be opened without a special tool that only > GM > dealers have?

Don’t give them any ideas. LOL. I guess this is technology for you. — It is better to burn out than to fade away. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>> Does anyone know of a company make an after market Transmission Dip >>> Stick for Late Model GM Cars that are built without one? >>> I would find this a useful addition to allow me to check fluid level >>> and add fluid if necessary. >>> TIA, >>> Larry >> Don’t know of any that are built without one unless it’s a manual >> trans. Want to, oh I don’t know, MAYBE MENTION WHAT KIND OF VEHICLE >> YOU WANT INFO ABOUT? >> HeHe, really, that would be helpful as all get-out….. > http://lokar.com/interior_pages/transdipstick.htm

2000 Gr AM does NOT have one but has a vent up top and a plug at the transmission pan where the manual says you check the fluid. No dipstick for the transmission. — Drum-

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>>How long until the hood can’t be opened without a special tool that only >GM >dealers have? > Don’t give them any ideas. LOL. I guess this is technology for you.

Hey, what hood? The writing’s on the wall. Look at other things around you – your tv set, your toaster, your computer, your digital camera… Like them, you’ll use your car until it breaks, then throw it away (paying for the privilege of filling the landfill) and buy another. Probably made in China. From WalMart. I wish I was kidding. Ken

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>> How long until the hood can’t be opened without a special tool that > only GM > dealers have? > Don’t give them any ideas. LOL. I guess this is technology for you.

Know what kills me? When building a hotrod, or retrofitting older cars with a GM small block, it is so easy. Carb, takes one fuel line. HEI, one hot wire from the ignition. Alternator, one wire again. Hell, even if you go fuel injected the control computer harness is just for the FI and required sensors. They don’t tie the radio, brakes, tranny, and door locks/window into it. Don’t get me started on the whole idea of a "floating ground". Look at a wiring harness for a late model GM. Looks like Murphy, the god of things that can go wrong, pissed all over under the hood and under the dash and wherever the urine splattered, wiring was installed. Course look back at Chryslers first trys. Can you say, "Lean Burn Engine"? Two worse things for electronic components, heat and vibration. Where did they mount the control computer? On the air cleaner. Oh boys, WTF were you thinking? I know, I know. Todays cars are allegedly ever so much better. I call BS. You can build a PC from parts from different manufacturers because companies agreed on a standard to build to so thier shit would all work together. Then software is written to run on a set platform. Car companies could do the same and then just have a seperate chip or software for each make/model. It would standardize testing and parts. Will they ever do it? Why? Then they couldn’t gouge the heck outta of the consumer. I could go on but I need a drink and a breath of air. After that I’ll probably find something else to rant about…….

Response:

> Same here. I was amazed and appalled when I found out that GM was > building cars without such an obviously necessary part no longer > there.

Why do you think it’s a "necessary" part? If the trans doesn’t leak fluid, the level won’t go down. If you develop a leak, you fix it and top up the fluid. Checking these transmissions is not hard, you unscrew a small plug that is fairly easy to access, run the vehicle in park, and pour in the fluid until it comes out the level hole. Again, guaranteed not to overfill the trans, which may be what GM had in mind when doing this. > I guess a person could pull the pan, weld in an adapter, and then use > one of those Lokar O-ring dipsticks. Or depending on the fill-hole > maybe install one there.

Probably easier to just learn where the level plug is. > How long until the hood can’t be opened without a special tool that > only GM dealers have?

Oh, it’s coming. I believe they are working on 30K mile oil change intervals…or something to that effect. Basically, they don’t really want anyone opening the hood for a long time. This will bite them and the consumer in the ass, but you can’t reason with them. Oh well, we technicians will have to be there to pick up the pieces and "charge" a whole lot for it….(grin) Ian

Response:

Well … I have a POS BMW that my stepson defaulted on & blessed me with. No tranny dipstick. Had to change out the radiator, and of course lost a little tranny fluid in the process. How to top it off? Well – according to the krauts, you have to have the car on a lift, perfectly level, at exactly a certain temperature, and it is soooo critical. (Oh, and of course, the plug on the bottom is frozen.) Leave the darned dipstick in. If they don’t have sense enough to fill it to the proper level, then I say that’s job security for service techs. Always have liked GM, but I hate this big-brother attitude. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Does anyone know of a company make an after market Transmission Dip >Stick for Late Model GM Cars that are built without one? >I would find this a useful addition to allow me to check fluid level and >add fluid if necessary. >TIA, >Larry

Response:

Ian, Thanks for the info. Found red cap on both cars. Not easiest location to get at (under exhaust manifold and heat shield on Grand Am) but doable. Thanks, Larry – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Does anyone know of a company make an after market Transmission Dip >Stick for Late Model GM Cars that are built without one? >I would find this a useful addition to allow me to check fluid level >and add fluid if necessary. > No, this can’t be done. There is a fill plug at the top of your > transmission (big red cap). And once you figure out where the > level checking plug is….this system actually works quite well, and > you are guaranteed "not" to overfill the trans. > Ian

Response:

> > No, this can

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